Sure, here's a better angle, too.

 

thanks. ive no idea how im gonna incorporate it into the L67. theres no internal mounting points whatsoever

 

Yea, I was looking at that. Based on what I can see from your picture, I'd weld a stud onto the windage tray. You don't actually need a stud - just cut the threads off of a bolt head and weld that on.

If you don't know anyone that can weld, you can always drill a thru-hole in the windage tray and use a nut and bolt. That will work just as well. Of course, that hole and bolt would need to be somewhere that did not interfere with the throw of the crank.

I don't think you have thick enough material to tap the windage tray for a bolt.

 

my windage tray is plastic.

 

I guess your only option is drilling for a nut and bolt, which isn't bad at all. Find the beefiest, thickest part you can and drill a thru-hole. Like I said, it doesn't take much to support that oil pickup. Your windage tray looks relatively thick, too. Unless it's weak and brittle, I'd do it.

Don't forget how critical, and I mean critical, that oil pickup tube is. For GM to spend the money for one on my engine, it must be important... and my tube is steel!

 

yeah, good point. isnt your car an LS2?

 

Yea, it is an LS1 actually. I wish I would have spent the extra couple bucks for the LS2 but oh well.

 

its jut a number anyways. icant imagine needingmore than 300whp. my GP is only slightly modified and its already too powerful to keep the tires in check.

 

I firmly believe you should heed the hint from the last post regarding the steel tubing for the pickup. from my experience working with and welding/brazing/soldering metals, the copper makes me shiver, as it will not stand up to any vibration, nor will the bronze brazing medium. I definitely would find a short length of steel piping, or even steel electrical conduit piping, and heat-bend, or cut angles for bends and mig weld the angle cuts.
-Just my opinion.

 

+1 with Gregh. There are more forces than just vibrations to consider. When RPM's change your oil pressure suction through the screen will vary between 20-70 psi. That means it will constantly be flexing, pulled down and springing back up with every change in engine speed. A copper pipe can withstand SOME flex, but a few hundred flexes it will break. The soldered and brazed joints will cause weak spots.

My suggestion would be to use what you made as a mock up, and build one out of steel. If you can bend that copper, you can bend steel. Just use a little more muscle!

 

thats the idea. im gonna take it down to the local machine shop and see if i can get a duplicate made.

the problem ive had thus far, is that steel and tubing suppliers are few and far between in the midohio valley. and since no one seems to be using the same tape measure, trying to order the pipe i need has resulted in a lot of wasted $$$

 

I conservatively estimate my LS1 to be at about 340fwhp and about 275rwhp. With my 2.88 rear gear, 2.48 first gear, and stock truck converter, that's not enough to break the 10+ year old stock tires loose. The weight transfer on my car is incredible... when you punch it the rear ends loads up, pushing down on the tires, and giving you great traction. Your XJS is probably similar because it shares the same layout and suspension. (Your Grand Prix is FWD so weight transfer works against it, taking weight off the front wheels.) Even on the highway when I nail it between 40 and 65 mph - it pulls great, but there is a lot of traction left in the suspension.

I think this is a really good idea. I know a guy that fabricates and welds a lot of tubing stuff for food processing equipment. PM me if you want me to pick his brain. He'd probably make you a copy of that brass tube in steel or just do the whole thing for you.

 

For welding the oil pan, if you have oxy-acetylene you can either stitch it slowly to avoid warping or look up an old technique called hammer welding.

 

i have a friend with a mig welder who is gonna try and weld it up for me hopefully. im pretty inexperienced. ive played around a bit with an elcheapo flux wire welder, and a little bit of stick welding. but WOW is that stick welder aggressive tp the thin stuff.

i do have an oxy-acetylene torch setup though. how would i go about stitch welding?

 

Best way to go with oil pan would be touching it up every inch or so with mig welder and then brazing it with coat hangers, using your torch.
Making water tight welds with mig welder is insanely hard.

 

i dont have a mig welder.

 

Pay a welder to heliarc it.

 

Agreed. My uncle TIG welded my cast aluminum oil pan. It turned out great. You can do the same thing with that steel pan - it should be easier. The TIG setup gives the welder a little more control. With that being said, I have used a stick welder and MIG welded but never the TIG.

 

If you can stick weld to tack it in place, then you can finish off with hammer welding.

Look it up on the interwebs, but it is basically heat it up it white hot and beat the two overlapping pieces together with a hammer against a backing dolly or anvil. It was often used in custom body work by the best shops. When you are finished, the two sheets are essentially one sheet.

 

So winter has been a total buzzkill. ground this project to a complete halt. so i spent the winter trying to find someone who could duplicate my pickup tube in steel. no dice.

so i finally gave up and put a few tacks around the rim of the screen to keep it from creating a vacuum.

sent the pan to a local shop who welded it up real cheap. did some calcuations and i lost 1.5qts so i came up with some new ideas to flare out the sides to regain the lost oil volume. its currently in the shop for the new mods but heres some pics of the finished notch prior to sending it back to the shop. the level sending units hole was welded over. the drain plug relocated to the bottom. all in all they did an excellent job and it only cost me $40 bucks so far.







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