Check Engine Light
#1
Check Engine Light
I have a 92 xjs v12, less than 31,000 original miles, 2nd owner, and reg maintenance performed. Today the light came on, and before I take it to the shop, are there reasons for this that are more common than others?
Did check on oil level, tranny fluid, coolant, brake fluid, all are ok.
Did check on oil level, tranny fluid, coolant, brake fluid, all are ok.
#2
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RogB (09-21-2015)
#6
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RogB (09-21-2015)
#7
You can also disconnect the battery to clear the codes, but obviously then you have to reset your radio, etc.
There is a purple wire going to nowhere, ending in a red (or black) connector on the passenger side of the center console, behind the little "ears" cover that has the foot vent in it (Taking this cover off is just a matter of removing the 2 screws holding the foot vent in placer then pulling the cover forward)
If you find this wire, then ground it, it clears the codes for you.
I have connected this wire to a switch that is grounded so I can just throw a switch to clear codes. I was fitting other switches so this seemed to be a sensible addition. These little switches fit perfectly in the ashtrays so once the ashtray is closed you can't see them.
I agree with Pauls approach, ie the first time it appears, clear it and see if it comes back. These early attempts at OBD are quite sensitive and can throw false readings. I notice that if my car has been sitting in the garage, unused for a while, the first one or two runs there's a good chance it'll throw a code. If I've been driving the heck out of it and using it for the whole week, it'll never throw a code...... my take is that these cars really like being driven, and don't like sitting in a garage :-)
There is a purple wire going to nowhere, ending in a red (or black) connector on the passenger side of the center console, behind the little "ears" cover that has the foot vent in it (Taking this cover off is just a matter of removing the 2 screws holding the foot vent in placer then pulling the cover forward)
If you find this wire, then ground it, it clears the codes for you.
I have connected this wire to a switch that is grounded so I can just throw a switch to clear codes. I was fitting other switches so this seemed to be a sensible addition. These little switches fit perfectly in the ashtrays so once the ashtray is closed you can't see them.
I agree with Pauls approach, ie the first time it appears, clear it and see if it comes back. These early attempts at OBD are quite sensitive and can throw false readings. I notice that if my car has been sitting in the garage, unused for a while, the first one or two runs there's a good chance it'll throw a code. If I've been driving the heck out of it and using it for the whole week, it'll never throw a code...... my take is that these cars really like being driven, and don't like sitting in a garage :-)
The following 2 users liked this post by Sarc:
kansanbrit (02-26-2019),
RogB (09-24-2015)
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#9
RogB,
No, the MIL comes on if it "sees" a fault and then stays on. If you clear the code and then the fault happens again, the MIL will illuminate again. If the light doesn't come back, it means the fault has "gone". That's why many people suggest clearing a fault after the first illumination and seeing if it comes back.
Hope that helps
Paul
No, the MIL comes on if it "sees" a fault and then stays on. If you clear the code and then the fault happens again, the MIL will illuminate again. If the light doesn't come back, it means the fault has "gone". That's why many people suggest clearing a fault after the first illumination and seeing if it comes back.
Hope that helps
Paul
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RogB (09-24-2015)
#10
I decided to find the CEL reset connector on my 1994 4.0 so I didn't have to disconnect the battery to clear codes. Thought I would share a couple of photos as I couldn't find any to help me identify it. Purple connector, single yellow/green wire. Connect to ground to clear codes. As you will see in the second shot I relocated mine so I didn't have to remove the kick panel in future.
#12
I'd also suggest you take a look through my thread HERE, which has a lot of helpful advice about your mirror image problem, FF44. Same problem, other side. In brief, replacing the O2 lambda sensors with a nice couple of Bosch ones did the trick. Just got back from nearly a thousand mile road trip and she didn't miss a beat.
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kansanbrit (03-05-2019)
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