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There are "long " nuts and "short" nuts and "flat-shouldered" and "taper-shouldered".
You need to ensure that the nuts are the right type. First of all, check that they are long enough to tighten on the studs without fouling. Then check that the shoulder fits properly in the wheel hole recess.
Ah ha! I think I've got it now, although at first it really threw me, when the Wheel Nuts were sticking out as long as they were, so I think that all I've got to do now, is to find some more of those Short Nuts
Anyway I've got Two Wheels on, temporarily held in place with the Long Nuts
Long and Short Nuts! I should have realized that the 16 inch Wheels Need the Longer Nuts and the 15 inch Wheels need the Short Nuts!
Just got to find some more Short Nuts, which I think are down the Garage
Glad you have some in stock,, Alex! Though I think that the nut length has nothing to do with the wheel diameter, just with the wheel design. Might be wrong though!
But these Celebration Wheels are a lot deeper than the Lattice Alloy ones and so hence the need for using longer bolts
Although it also gives me a Chance to compare what Style of Wheel looks best and while I thought it would be the Lattice Alloys, like are fitted to my other Car '50 Shades' for some strange reason the Lattice Wheels don't look quite right
I'm also in the process of detailing under the Bonnet, namely Polishing the Paintwork and its making a heck of a difference, then when I do the Green Jaguar Lettering on the Cam Cover, then that should be the moment when it could really 'pop'
Just got to find some Jaguar Green from somewhere (wondering what the paint code is for that)
As for the 'Uber Super Duper' 780 AMP CCA Battery as recommended by Paul (ptjs) according to my DVM its holding very nearly 13 Volts!
Although the one thing I don't understand, is no matter what I did last year this Car was point blank just refusing to Start but now it's on the Button
with 'Light Switch Ignition' every time!
Even though She has no Brakes at the moment apart from the Hand Brake, if I just 'Snick' her into gear at 800 RPM She will happily ponder round
'Orange Blossom Towers' with no signs of the Front or Rear Calipers binding at all!
Same thing when I jack her up as I can very easily revolve the Wheels by Hand
She is also Starting to grow on me more and more, as Morocco Red is one of the Best Colors that I have ever seen, that doesn't have 'the fairground look' some other Colors do
It just looks 'Expensive' with a Capital 'E' and you can Smell the Money, every time that you open the door, that unlike the pre-face lift, Shuts with a 'Clunk' like a Mercedes (I may even make a Video of the noise)
My heart goes out to the potential buyer, who decided to drop out of the sale, as I think he missed out on buying a very special Car, with an Amazing Personal Number Plate that really sets this Car off. that I was even going to throw in for Free!
Greg's right. As long as it has the tapered shoulder that the lattice has, then the long wheel nuts are fine, even if they don't look quite right. So, don't worry if you can't find all the short nuts.
I really like lattice wheels, particularly in 16" form. But I agree, the late cars just don't look right on them, especially as they weren't fitted from new on very late cars. Stick to the Celebration Alloys, or find a rare set of the correct 20-spoke V12 option wheels.
Morocco Red is a great colour and relatively rare on the late cars. I think your heart is telling you to keep it!
Yes! you are right and there will be tears on the driveway when She finally drives away for the very last time!
Such an easy Car to love and the Interiors on these Cars are on another level
Not of course overlooking the miserly Fuel Consumption of around 30 MPG
As I was filling a Gallon Can for my Mower at the Garage, I had an attack of 'The Vapors' when this little Can went and Cost me £8 Quid to fill up! OMG!
And that was the 'El Cheapo' 95 Octane that won't be going anywhere near my V12
But my XJS Celebration Convertible and for that I have a Plan but before I go and get into that, I'll give you the Story so far as last year it all went horribly wrong, so hopefully learning from my mistakes and a little help from 'The Jaguar Gods' I'm very much hoping for much better progress this Year
As for Starters my XJS 4.0L simply would not Start, even though I'd tried every trick in the Book to make that happen but now with a lot more experience that in my own case comes from getting it wrong, this Year I was determined to set about solving the problem in a more methodical way
Where I eventually tried something I'd never tried before, as by process of elimination, I found I was not getting any fuel to the Rail, so putting my 'Greg' and 'Grant' hat on, I wondered what they would do!
Although the one thing that they wouldn't do, is to throw Parts at it, which can very often be a fruitless and expensive waste of Time!
So after doing one or two Tests, I decided to replace the Fuel Pump Relay, which is tucked away in the drivers side Wing/Fender in the Boot/Trunk behind a piece of Carpet Trim and where as such is very awkward to get to unless you are a Contortionist who can stand on your head
And even then the Chances are that you might need a Mirror to find it, where just in case you need to, it is the Silver one, where fortunately I had a Spare one from a Scrap Car and so I thought that I'd try that, after which I turned the Key and She Started and ran like a bird!
So having at last got her running, the very next job on the list was to get New Tyres where if you can afford them and according to those who know, Pirelli are the only game in Town, although opinions vary as you may expect
Where rather than take for ever to consider all the options, I decided to go for Pirelli which go together with a Jag like peaches go with Cream, so with the help of the GF and Phoning round her Contacts, we managed to Track down a number of Pirelli P4000 that were OEM on this Car
Including Two Brand New ones, as well as Two others that were on their Rims and never used and which I got for £160 + £10 each to fit them to the Celebration Wheels, that to me looked perfect both inside and out, with no cracks in the Casing and no puncture repairs
Although I'll get my MOT Guy to give them the once over!
Where at least they will be better than the ones that I took off, including one with a very bad Split in the side
My Tyre Fitting Guy disposed of that and then replaced it with this one, that had his seal of approval and this guy knows his stuff
Before I got these new tyres, I left the Car on a Set of 15 inch Lattice Alloys that came off a V12 so now all that I had to do was to Swap them over
15 inch Lattice Alloys that I used as Slave Wheels until I got the new tyres
Following a Suggestion from Paul (ptjs) I used a piece of Tube to help with slipping the Tyre onto the Studs and though Paul (ptjs) has the proper piece of Kit to do the Job, I improvised with a Piece of 1/2 inch Copper Tubing (Water Pipe)
Two of the Best Tools I've ever bought!
Both are Impact Wrenches but I use the Big one for Undoing things like Wheel Nuts and the Smaller one for Snugging up the Wheel Nuts before a Final Tighten with the Torque Wrench
How I managed without these I will never know, although they really were not that expensive and where the Small one is ideal for Running Screws and Nuts and Bolts and all good stuff like that, the Bigger one is what you need for Undoing Wheel Nuts and Awkward Bolts that just won't come undone
Well done on replacing the tyres! Clearly those old ones were very dangerous and I can see why you wouldn't drive on the road with those.
One word of caution, even if they look good, do be careful about checking for any sidewall deformation or tread cracking on those P4000s. As I'm sure you'll know from the date stamp on the tyres, they are pretty old. The last batch of P4000s were apparently produced back in 2011, so even if they've been stored in good conditions, I would still be careful with them.
Cheers, I agree but my Tyre Guy knows the score and Checked them over both inside and out, where according to him they are all in perfect condition, where kept as Spares he reckons that they have never seen the 'Light of Day'
Your Tube idea for Sliding the Wheels onto the Studs, also worked out perfect and avoided all that heavy lifting and much better than the method that I was using before
When I got Nix, she was wearing the most Beautiful Michelins! They still had rubber whiskers from the molds, so I thought I was getting a Screaming Deal!
As I don't drive Anything like it's made of glass, I took this new-to-me Jag out to see what she's got. I'd had her about a week, less than 200 miles when, while taking one of my favorite S-curves at about 70mph (I've done it faster since then), coming out of the 2nd curve, there was a funny noise, she gave an ominous wiggle and I Knew I had blown a tire.
I had Shredded the left rear.
SHREDDED I say!!
Only then did I learn by checking the build date, these tires were 10 years old and had been stored since new.
Lesson learned.
National Highway Safety Counsel advises any tires over 3 or 4 years old be Ditched for new, no matter how good they look or how much tread shows.
Hey Lnr. Not to detract from what you're saying. The tire you show all shredded had somewhere along it's life had been run severly underinflated/ low which caused severe wear in the sidewall of the tire. To prove my point I'll bet you a dollar, there was a significant anount of crumbled up rubber inside the tire, which is from the inside of the sidewall due to extreme flexing of the sidewall when underinflated. I'm not trying to say that 10 year old tires are perfectly safe. I'm remarking on this Idea that all tires over 5 years old should be ditched. I've got vehicles right now with tires well over 5 years old with no issues. Everything form my 94 F150 which pulls my car trailer. So it doesn't see daily use. Yet the tires on both are about 7 years old, and half tread and I'd drive it to California (1800 miles) on a moments notice witout a second thought. I've been schooled very heavily on tires through the years by the Likes of RyderTrans. Bridgestone, and Goodyear to name a few. The truth is any tire can fail, and since we don't always know what kind of "life" a tire has seen. (they came on the car) We must do our due dilligence to be sure they are properly inflated, not showing any unusual deformation, or cracking of any kind. But the Idea of a tire being 3 to 4 years or God forbid 5 years old. That they should be discared is propaganda by the people who sell tires. A mistreated tire is much more dangerous, then one that is simply a little old. Just my thoughts Hope it helps
I needed some of those Turnbuckle 'Thingys' to Secure some Trim in the Boot/Trunk of my XJS 4.0L except they seem to Cost Megabucks to buy and so I thought I'd have a go at making my own, as even the OEM ones seem to eventually either break off or come undone
So I started by repurposing a 'Milk Bottle Top' though anything fairly similar would do
Milk Bottle Tops Cost Nothing and get thrown away, so I started by drilling a small hole in the Top
After that I Screwed in a Bolt. although you could even use a Wood Screw or maybe a Self Tapper, depending on what you are going to use it for
Next I cut up a Glue Stick into 'Bite Size Pieces' either using a Small Hacksaw or in my Case our best Bread Knife! or at least it was!
Having done that the next thing I did, was to pack the pieces of Glue Stick around the Bolt, so it sort of looks like the Giants Causeway
Next you need to Melt the Glue without Melting the Bottle Top, that you could do with a Heat Gun to prevent your Nearest and Dearest from having a Sense of Humor Failure! or you could do what I did and just take the 'Brave Pills' and use our New Air Fryer!
A Two Drawer one in the UK Costs around £70 so I bought Two Single Drawer ones that only Cost £20 each!
These things are Amazing! as the less time you spend Cooking, the more you can spend driving your XJS
Also comes in handy for Cooking Chips!
Don't Try This At Home! but as I hadn't got a Heat Gun, I repurposed the Air Fryer to Melt the Glue
It took about 10 Minutes at 200 0/c although its best to keep checking the progress to see how its going
Unexpectedly almost perfect and where by way of a Bonus I didn't set fire to the Kitchen! (At least not this time!)
Don't attempt to Touch it, until the Melted Glue has had plenty of time to Set and Cool down! and just to be sure to prevent getting Burned, wear a pair of Protective Gloves and pick it up with Pliers, then drop it into Cold Water to harden it off
That's a great idea! but I had a load of 'Glue Sticks' kicking around in the Garage, that I got from a Yard Sale and so I thought that I would try those first!
Can't wait to Show you what happens next! (its not what you think!?)
But I also need to Change the Oil on my XJS 4.0L
For which I bought a 12v Oil Extraction Pump
Never used one of these before, although I think Paul (ptjs) has and while it looks like you stick the Tube down the Dip Stick Hole, when I put a Photo of this Gadget up, I am hoping that Paul (ptjs) will jump right in and let me know if I'm doing it wrong or right!
At around £12 it wasn't that expensive and so Temptation got the better of me and I bought an Oil Changing Pump and I don't know why either, as I usually take the Sump Plug out, except it may be better or worse than having to lay on your back in order to do so
I think that I've got it Connected up right but wondering if I need to Prime it first?
Last edited by orangeblossom; 08-07-2024 at 11:21 AM.
07-26-2024, 07:47 AM
