When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
As you can see OB, I'm in the middle of taking my ABS unit apart. Just to make sure it works properly before I reinstall it.
Here's the pedal. At the top are some brass bushes. Mine have been replaced before (some crude hammer dings in the material). If it was never greased, as it is supposed to be, it will wear. Especially since you always use the brake pedal...
If the pump cuts out, I'd check the fuel pump relay. Common problem with those KE's. The fuel pump is less likely a problem. But the relays suffer. Amd as they get hot, they can have some issues. See if you can find the relay and replace it. Shouldn't be a fancy rare part.
Should be located around the battery. It is a longish black box wirh several pins.
Something like this:
These seem to have a corrosion problem and after a certain amount of it, it'll cut out. New start is enough to kind of reset it. Otherwise theree isn't much that can go wrong...
The COLOUR has nothing to do with the PROPERTIES of the fluid. It is like saying should you use white tooth paste or white with red stripes?
Many manufacturers change the colours as they wish to. Red, yellow, green, neon yellow, purple even brown is about... You can mix and match BUT you need to know what base it is (silicone, glycole, ...) in order to prevent it flaking and crystalizing...
Read what the "ingredients" are on your tub and compare them with those on your previous tubs. That is the best way to make sure if it is compatible or if it isn't.
And because of exactly THESE reasons, I always use universal coolant. No silicon content. No way of it flaking out. Heck, you can add it to ANY coolant in the engine already and nothing happens... My XJ-S will be getting the same stuff as my XJ8 gets...
Having never checked the Level of the Automatic Transmission Fluid because for one thing I didn't know how to do it.
I thought that I'd better start now, so first off a big Thanks to Paul P.T.J.S. and daverb for showing me what to do.
(1) Step One: Warm up the Engine.
Warming up the Engine and She Started on the Button as well!
Must be all that TLC and Money I'm throwing at her.
(2) Step Two: Find the Transmission Fluid Dipstick
The Transmission Fluid Dipstick.
I was wondering what that was for.
Transmission Fluid Dipstick being pulled out to Check the Level of the ATF
The First time I did this was when the Engine was Cold and Not Running.
(1) Remove Dipstick
(2) Wipe Dipstick Clean
(3) Re-insert Dipstick
(4) Remove Dipstick to Check the Level
This Photo was taken looking down from above
The ATF was there right to the Top of the Groove
The Dipstick Marks looked a bit Confusing but the ATF was right to the Top of the Groove (Guys, is that OK?)
(3) Step Three: This time checking with the Engine Running
(1) Cycle through the Gearbox (with the foot brake on!)
(2) Clean Dipstick
(3) Re-insert Dipstick
(4) Remove Dipstick to Check the Level
Photo Taken from above Same as before
When I checked the Level this time, I did so while the Engine was Still Running
Having Checked the Level of the ATF but this time while the Engine was Still Running, the ATF Level was about half an inch from the Bottom of the Dipstick.
The Fluid was a very nice light Red Colour and didn't smell burnt, so I'm hoping that all is ok.
And now I know how to do this, I will be Checking it at least once a Week.
Last edited by orangeblossom; 08-30-2017 at 07:48 AM.
Technically it should be enough to check the fluid level when cold. So ice cold engine and then pull the dipstick. The Rodney (ha, get it? Rodney <-> Dip stick <-> Dellboy...) should have a cold mark on one side and a warm mark on the other. Normally the level is higher when warm and lower when cold (at least that was my experience with other brands and autoboxes like ZF, Aisin Warner, Jatco, ...). Most important though is to have the car TOTALLY even standing. No incline /decline. It MUST be flat and level. Otherwise the reading can be bad...
One of the difficulties with checking in any way other than "hot and cycled" is that fluid level in boxes can be very misleading at any other time. For example the ZF box in the 4 litre tends to "drain back" when left. So the level can rise over a number of days. (As an example, see how much fluid will continue to drip quite significantly out of the box after you've removed the sump and filter!) Which means that if you check it when cold, you really need to do it when it's cold and been standing for exactly the same amount of time, every time you do it That's really difficult to achieve. IMO It's a much better indication to always check it with car level and box "hot and cycled".
It's good that your fluid still seems reddish but it's definitely still due a filter and fluid change!
But since I won't be using 'Cherry' much for the rest of this Year and the Car had FMDSH when I bought her.
I've had to drop this down the list of priorities. (as the Fluid does look good enough for the moment)
In favor of:
(1) Seeing if I am able to Start 'The Ice Princess'
(2) Fitting New Calipers to 'The Ice Princess'
(2) Fitting New Master Cylinder/Actuator to 'The Ice Princess'
(3) Bleeding the Brakes of 'The Ice Princess'
(4) Drain and Re-fill Anti Freeze on 'The Ice Princess'
(5) Putting New Steering Arm on 'The Ice Princess'
(6) Getting 'The Ice Princess' out of the Garage and replacing Her with 'Cherry Blossom' which I have totally bonded with and is the love of my life (at least Car wise)
08-24-2017, 06:03 AM
What Grease should I use on the Hub of 'The Ice Princess'
