OB,

Well done! I told you it would only take you 5 minutes!

If I had concerns as to my cluster and the PCB, I would do 3 things first:

- carefully remove all those corroded screws (has it been exposed to some moisture?) and replace them

- use a multimeter and check continuity from all the plug-in tabs of the PCB to their final points at each instrument / earth point

- refit the plugs and then re-check the continuity by back-probing each pin of the plugs and again its termination point at the relevant instrument or earth point

Cheers

Paul

 

YUK, remove all those screws and replace them with new ones, while you have them out clean the PCB with a pencil eraser then IPA (alcohol). I also notice some corrosion in the plugs do the same with these. THis should fix your problem.

 

OB
If I read your post correctly, this is a spare from the parts car? If so your actual one may not be nearly so bad from the corrosion point of view. Even so, on the troublesome rea one a few extra pointers to add to PTJS and Warrjon's lists:
Along the top of the back runs a steel strip about 1/2 inch wide. This is the common earth and it goes to one of the multiplug connectors. The connections to this strip need carefully cleaning up on the real one, and attaching a second earth, going directly to the car, not via the plug, is a goof idea. Also changing the dash illumination bulbs to 5 watt push fits does wonders. These are a in those small black holders that look like rusty half sugar lumps in your pic.
To get to the speedo you have to undo about 6 small self tappers that hold the white plastic shell to the black front piece. Then the white bits with the PCB comes away, and then, undoing the tiny bolts on the PCB behind the speedo and on the plastic, allows the speedo head to be removed. Changing it for a known good one is a good plan once it is out, or send it to an instrument mender for a full check.


But have you been able to check the loom to see if the signal is definitely arriving at the cluster?
Greg

 

Greg@Ptjs@Warrjon

Hi Greg

You are correct, this is the old unit out of my 'Parts Car' as I wanted to have a dry run to see what was involved before I tackled the one on 'Cherry Blossom'

Which I am expecting to 'look' in 'as new condition' without any rust!

It was easy to take out and also put back in and the same with the Plugs.

Also on the 'Parts Car' the Steering Wheel was already off.

When I remove the one on 'Cherry Blossom' I will have to lower the Steering Column Column by unlatching the adjustment lever, which should give me enough room.

It could be something as simple as a clean of the Plugs and Sockets with Electric Contact Cleaner.

But now I know what that Steel Earth Strip is for, maybe I should run an Aux Wire from that Steel Strip to another Earth Point.

What do you think about that?

 

 

You have to hold the lever and then pull the wheel...

If that does not work, then remove the steering column covers (screws from underneath) and have a beak around. It may just be a stretched cable...

 

Hi Daim

Cheers!

I was pulling down on the Steering Wheel at the same time that I moved the lever, except that the lever did not have any resistance.

It didn't feel like it was unlatching anything.

So I will have to take the cover off and look inside as you say.

Either the wire has come off or its broken?

 

 

A piece of my rubber there broke off, but rather than bother with a full replacement, I just used some of my windscreen sealant to glue it back in place. Mind you, yours looks rather worse for wear than mine.
Frankly, I'd just like to remove the entire antenna--it's not as if I ever use it....

 

Step by step guide to replace the grommet? Heck, arieal out, grommet out, grommet in, arieal in. Done... I mean, that is probably the easiest job out there. To make the antenna slide in easier, a small smear of soapy washing up liquid onnthe inside...

 

Hi Daim

When I did the last one, the rubber was so hard that it took me half a day to put it in, even when trying to lube it with washing up liquid.

 

when i did mine i soaked it in hot water for a while which softened it up somewhat. Went in ok. perhaps a dab of KY jelly, if you know what i mean.

 

Hi Leo

I even boiled it in Hot water to try and soften it up but that didn't do it either and as I remember it was a nightmare to fit.

And so I am hoping for better luck with replacing this Grommet on 'Cherry'

 

Have you tried coating it in WD40? Just to make sure it plops...

 

 

Hi Daim

There have been questions on the Forum on how to remove the Aerial, so a few Pics may be useful for those who've got an Aerial to replace.

 

I'll try anything once and twice if I like it!

 

Hi Someday

Same!

While I get great reception on my 'el-cheapo' Radio, I don't need the Aerial either as all my Tracks are on MP3

But on the assumption that most of the Wiring Colours are the same, if you disconnect the 'Blue' Wire on the back of your Stereo.

Then the Aerial should stay down, when you switch it on, if that's any help?

 

 

OB,

Good form of improvisation. Well done!

I use one these oil filter straps to remove rad hoses (and a variety of other tight cylindrical items!) Readily available for about £2.50. They also work really well on oil filters as intended! Much easier than stabbing it with a screwdriver and p*****g oil all over the driveway

Paul