Thanks Ben, yes ur absolutely right, water.
I had just removed the stats to test if the overheating gets better without them, but prior to testing the car, I read all the info above.
I had filled up the water that came out with normal water as I knew I will drain it out again and reinstall the correct thermostats, so didnt want to waste any antifreeze.
I had not even run the engine when I reopened the housing to see the circulating pipe's opening inside the housing, hence ur observation is spot on.

Thanks for the comments on vacuum, will take it up in another post if not answered here.

Cheers

 

Thanks for your comments and for the write up attachment.
OK will check things out again once the thermostats are installed, but I must admit I was surprised with the temperatures recorded as none of my other (non Jaguar) classic cars go that high under normal operation.

Will see
Cheers

 

Thanks again for the writeup on vacuum lines. Much appreciated and I am sure I will learn a thing or two from it.

Cheers

 

​​​
They would of you lived in Kansas !

 

We do have a couple of fairly hot months during our summer season when it gets close to 40 C at times, so maybe the car may get that hot?
In any case once I install the new thermostats, I will reevaluate the situation.
I ordered a kit from "Simply Performance Ltd"
in UK (photo below) and should be receiving them end of this week.
They are a bit more expensive than "British Parts" but they claim they are OEM.
They were quick in responding to my query and seem to stock a lot of parts.

In the meantime I will start another thread as suggested by "BenKenobi" about vacuum lines as it may also shed some light for others interested in this topic.

Cheers

 

Farouk,

Simply Performance have a good reputation, but you might want to ask them if those 'stats are "OEM" or "OEM specification"? And if they are OEM, who is the manufacturer? The reason is that Jaguar quote the part number as No Longer Available, which is interesting if Simply Performance are claiming that they are sourcing from the original manufacturer.

Paul

 

Hi Paul, apologies for my late reply but got caught in family activities that vered me off
The thermostats have been received and installed and look really great, see photos below.
An interesting feature there is a small ball valve that I assume is the steam vent I read about, where some simply drill a hole there.
I hope this answers your question, and if not I will be quite happy to ask them
Cheers





Open state when hot

 

I stand corrected
The other day I decided to use my 92 Cadillac ELdorado as I had not touched it in a good 3-4 years, and whilst driving, decided to set the instrument to read the temperature and was shocked to observe how high it can rise when caught in traffic !!! 97 !! I never dreamt this would go so high.
During normal driving it can go down to 85 and the ambient temp was 30 C.
Anyway got reminded again of what a luxurious and sweet driver the Eldorado is, and lots of power too

Cheers


Coolant temp 92 Cadillac Eldorado

 

Hi Farouk,

Photos look good and I hope the stats work well for you. It's not visible from the pics who actually makes the stats, so we still don't lnow if they are OEM or an "OEM specification". If Simply won't tell you who made them, I think we'd have to assume that they are not real OEM,

Anyway, as long as they work, that's the main thing!

Cheers

Paul

 

Gents, I am back again and installed the new correct thermostats, but still feeling uneasy about the temperature for the following reasons.
I have a normal temp gauge, photo below, and whilst driving without AC, it would point to a hair or two above middle.
But with the AC on and a bit of traffic, it will shoot up to a hair or two above the last line, hence very close to the red line which makes me very nervous.
When It got there, I stopped the car and took readings of temperatures right at the thermostat housing and they were around 95 C.
Now from the previous post I made about the ELdorado as well as what you gentlemen are saying, this seems to be a normal temp to get to, but I still feel nervous like hell seeing it so close to the red line.
Is this normal or something is wrong with either the gauge or the sensor?

 

Thanks Paul, I can still ask them, I haven't done so yet.
Is "WAXSTAT" stamped on them a brand name?

Cheers

 

Farouk,

What is the state of the cooling fins in the lower 1/3rd of your radiator? And do you have any debris in front of the rad?

A car running at normal temps, but getting hot with aircon on and no airflow through rad if sitting in traffic , can be a prime example of lack of cooling via the rad fins.

Paul

 

Waxstat is a brand name, yes. Waxstat supplied thermostats to Jaguar; it is "OEM".

Interestingly, someone here (maybe it was me!) bought Stant brand thermostats and they were clearly stamped "Waxstat"! In the replacement parts industry there is lots of "label engineering" and adultery

Cheers
DD

 

In my experience the term "OEM" is tossed around so loosely nowadays that it really doesn't mean anything at all.

You really have to do some homework to find out where you're buying.

Cheers
DD

 

Farouk
Try replacing the sender for the guage! 95° at the thermostat housing after a hot stop is not excessively hot.

 

OK, my take on this.

I am the one that cuts the jiggle pin, OR, drills the vent hole. That pin/hole MUST be installed at 12 o'clock. Wasting your time if not.

That Open Length snap you posted is TOO short. If a stat gets to FULL OPEN, the control of the cooling system is lost.
That port needs to be sealed BEFORE full open. Hence the stat I mentioned, and yes, I know Tridon and Dayco are not easy to find in some places, but at 43mm fully open, that port is sealed before the stat looses conirol.

AT the length you show, that port is NOT sealing when the stat is doing its control attempt, so HOT coolant is cycling back to the engine for more heat to be added, and then the Domino sets off.

We have 45C summer here, and none of mine have issues, and we all run Efans. Traffic or no traffic, temp gauge is reasonably stable under or at the N.

The gauges are only a guide, and only as good as the sender unit telling it what to do. Flaky gauge senders are common as mud. I use Echlin ONLY, and thats hard now Echlin packed up and left OZ a few years ago, but ?bay, and ?mazon make it doable.

Radiator external cleanliness, as mentioned, is more important than a Cold Beer for a V12. Many a cooked engine down here from that little forgotten item.

 

OK maybe I failed to describe the details of the partial restoration job that the car had just undergone, meaning everything mechanical or electrical on the car was checked, repaired or replaced except for the upper body/paintwork and interior.
This included new stsd rings and bearings and an underneath paint of all the body and suspension, most of which was replaced.
Hence, the radiator is clean and I have driven the car only around 300 miles since the job was done before I started dealing with the overheating issue.
Having said that and through this amazing group, I got to understand that the stats are wrong, and now replaced. Driving without AC, as I said, the gauge remains in the center.

However, yesterday I was looking closely at the car and comparing notes, photos, posts etc, I realized that I do not have the correct electric fan on.
It seemed a bit weak and certainly not made for the housing it is in, and one speed only.
I called my mechanic and he confirmed that this is what came with the car and left it there but has been trying to shop around for a correct 2 speed one, without luck so far.
He has received half a dozen or so fans but were not correct.
Could this be the missing link I needed?
To get an original fan here is next to impossible and hence I need directions as to where to find one.
I had a quick glance on the internet and I see so many electric fans being offered as "suitable for " the car but am not sure if they are.
I still have some questions though, but will state them through the other posts here as they are relevant to what was said.

Thx buddy

 

I believe I do remember reading such a post where by you posted the photos as well )

 

What I am trying to establish about the gauge's reading is some relevance to the temperatures.
Whilst driving without AC and a reasonable thirtyish C ambient, the gauge stays in the middle and on certain instances I took a reading with my digital reader which indicated mid eighties or a bit above.
So, I conclude that if the gauge is in the middle, that is a good place to be at such a temp, but when it shoots up to above 90, is it correct to go close to the red line?
Does anyone have a similar gauge and has had the same experience?
Still, I will check to see if I can find another sender and see how it goes.

Cheers

 

Buy a SPAL brand fan, all the others are far less strong. Get the largest you can fit in the shroud. Buy the model with the most amp draw, this is the only reliable way to rate fans.

If the fan amp draw is greater than the factory wiring can handle, use the factory wiring to trigger a relay and power the relay from the firewall positive post via a fuse.

Also it is important to wire the fan so it comes on when the aircon compressor kicks in. Some cars had this feature from the factory and some did not, but i, my view this is VERY important.

I take it you have renewed the main engine driven fan's torquetrol clutch unit?