When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
After being scolded by Grant for delaying fuel line maintenance (needed it! ), I am trying to get to fuel sump tank filter so that I can clean it
First, I got the metal ring (that locks the cover disc with the fuel line connected to it) removed. That was easy
Now, how do I open up that metal cover disc (after which, I assume, I will get to the filter)?
I tried pulling it, but it is not moving. Is there a trick to get the metal disc open? Or should I just apply more force and wiggling technique?
Also, I think I read that there will be a rubber seal underneath that will need replacing. Is it one of the common seals I can get at a regular Auto parts store, or should it be ordered from Jaguar supplier?
The rubber seal is part number ARA1502J. Works on lots of Jags. Not sure if your local auto parts store would have an off-the-shelf match...but it's worth a try. If not, any jag supplier will have one, I reckon
i was planning on clamping the inlet hose. Or is there a better way?
i don’t need to depressuarize the whole fuel line when dealing with the sump tank, correct? (I know I would need to depressuarize when doing fuel pump and filter.)
Remove the battery.
Drain the main tank.
Get under the car, and look for the rubber bung in the boot floor, just under that sump tank, REMOVE said bung, and there is the sump tank drain spigot staring right at you, 5/8 tube spanner, done.
EMPTY the boot, and I mean carpets and anything else, there WILL BE fuel spillage, and it only takes a drop to stink the car out.
You have that ring out, now wiggle that tube, AGE (not mine I know I'm old) has "welded" that rubber ring to the mating metal bits.
The rest is simple.
I am NOT a fan of clamping that 1/2" supply hose, they are old also, and the inner lining will be degraded, and the clamping will damage that llning, and cause fuel to leech thru that hose later in time, and stink the car out.
To remove the spout - I placed a screw driver down the pipe and levered up - the tabs you see in the photo's let it only be installed in the right orientation.
Cleaned the little tank with metho and a paint brush and then swirled metho around it until I was happy.
The filter itself had come free of the tube - so she has been running without a pre-filter for a little time - might explain a new pump that was installed in 2016, and the current one not sounding right. Those 2 probes position the tube in the surge tank
Even though the filter was not attached - still filthy
New filter just before reinstatement - parts are very cheap and is highly recommended
After thinking a bit more, I decided to postpone opening the sump tank for just a little bit. Instead replace all three related components -- fuel pump, fuel filter, and in tank filter -- all at once. Either next weekend or the weekend after the next.
I will drive the car a little bit locally, to burn the remaining gas. (It is already below half mark.) Then, per recommendations, I will drain the remaining fuel through the sump tank spigot. And then replace all three components and clean the sump tank. I think it make sense.
Do it all, do it once, do it well!
In the meantime, I will be ordering all the pieces: new pump, filter, etc.
Any recommendations? (I will be ordering in US.) Any bad experiences/brands to avoid?
I would look now at the integrity of the fuel hose, sump tank TO pump inlet. It will need to be removed from the sump tank pipe to do this task, and it might be a bright idea to replace it.
Doug has used Marine Grade fuel hoses in his S3, and reports no smells.
The In tank filter is Genuine only.
The rest I wills stay out of, as our brands dont work up there.
When I reattach the main tank to the sump tank - I am going to install an isolation valve between the two.
From what I have thought through
Advantages
Next time I change the in tank filter - or need to change the fuel pump - I don't need to drain the main tank (minimum fuel to deal with)
Nice added security feature when I park in an unsecured area
Disadvantage
Extra joins in the fuel line (in the boot) where I wanted to minimise joins
Might forget to turn it on after isolating it in the above car park
But I would rather lose a fuel pump over losing my car
Pretty sure not everyone will agree with my idea - but I am going to give it a go
Got the sump tank out today. I took it off my donor car, so that I can take my time to clean it and prep it properly.
Indeed, as Grant said, there was no need to remove the battery tray. After disconnecting enough fuel lines around the tank, there was enough space to access three bolts holding the tank and then take it out, using "fiddly motion".
Below are the pictures, including pics of the insides. Pretty messy. And rusty. What is the best way to clean it? Bez74 mentioned using "metho". What is metho? Don't think I ever used it. Can I use standard rust remover solution? Such as Metal Rescue or similar? No harm because of its gas tank?
I see. So it is just like rubbing alcohol. Just different kind of alcohol.
I did not pay attention to them previously, but I assume we probably have them in hardware/home improvement stores over here. Likely in the paint section. Will check it out. I remember there are all kind of different cleaners in there. Azeton, etc.
Wonder if some of them are better than the others for cleaning residue inside the sump tank.
I thoroughly read the web article provided by Segfault (thanks!) and decided to try vinegar+salt route. Locally Costco sells a box of 2 gallons of white vinegar for $3.xx -- what a deal! (Though only one gallon is really needed, which is about the size of the sump tank.)
I followed the directions. Filled it with vinegar, added some salt, and left it for 24+ hours. Well, it works!
Here is the progression documented in pictures:
Inside the sump tank immediately after draining (old) gas and removing the tank:
After thoroughly rinsing gazzilion times with water to remove dirt and particles:
Condition inside after treating with vinegar and brushing/rinsing afterwards:
probably as good as it can be. (And better than I expected).
So, I would recommend this technique: cheap and it works!
In trying to eliimnate the gas odor in the trunk of 89XJS, I removed the sump tank, cleaned it and decided to replace the rubber gasket. AUTOZONE part URO-009006 is a perfect fit. Not available in stores near me but they ordered it, it arrived next day. All for $0.79 !!!!! included tax. The happiest moment of the job so far.