Considering a 4.0 Manual for the misses, what do you think?
#1
12-03-2022, 09:32 AM
Considering a 4.0 Manual for the misses, what do you think?
I have owned 2 XJ-S's in my Jaguar History, Both 5.3 pre HE models, one was so rotten it actually fell apart on my parents driveway and the other- I bought on impulse with no where to store it or the funds to fix it, so sold it on again. Sadly XK8s started getting affordable so I moved onto one of them.
Moving forward into the Hi Tech gadgetry of modern motor cars and fully embracing CHANGE, I have decided that if I take all we have learnt from the past and put into modern cars and remove as many modules, sensors and whatever ever else these cars have- you actually end up with a bullet proof engine that can be fixed at the side of the road with a bottle opener and a rolled up copy of Jugs magazine.
For me I am going for the Series one XJ6 which I plan to fit with the modern 3.2 or 3.6 Straight 6 and I update the running gear. Also looking for a 1988 Daimler interior, but need to buy the series one first; I decided on a 1973 as that was the year I was born in
For the wife- an XJS, 4.0 looks about best (cant remember if they did a smaller engine in the Facelift model?) (the XJs-C was launched as 3,6)
The wife doesn't like autos for some reason so it has to be a manual, and any Jag after 1998 with a manual has a really **** poor engine and the choice of 1 out of 5 sensors you will need to replace every time it fails to start. So AJ6 or AJ16 it is. AJ16 is a triumph but coil pack and V.V.T. are as close as I want to get to modern engines, I also hear there are issues with the lack of equipment that can effectively access and alter the engine management (it can be done, but the equipment no longer exists) (so i am told).
Is this enough reason to just focus on the AJ6??
Out of interest, could you Frankenstein the AJ6 and the AJ16 so you get the benefits of the AJ16 but without the V.V.T.
I am looking at Face-lift models, 92 to 95 with AJ6, I did think of a 1990 as that was her birth year but the late model is almost all sorted. I plan to update the ABS, rear anti roll bar, but was looking for suggestion from you guys on what I could do to make the perfect XJS? out of all the past Jags- the XJS has the most potential
I started a similar project on a 1997 XK8, but have found that other than the outer skin, everything underneath could do with being made better, and I am really sorry I started it now and considering just rebuilding as stock and getting rid, such a shame as they're beautiful cars
Moving forward into the Hi Tech gadgetry of modern motor cars and fully embracing CHANGE, I have decided that if I take all we have learnt from the past and put into modern cars and remove as many modules, sensors and whatever ever else these cars have- you actually end up with a bullet proof engine that can be fixed at the side of the road with a bottle opener and a rolled up copy of Jugs magazine.
For me I am going for the Series one XJ6 which I plan to fit with the modern 3.2 or 3.6 Straight 6 and I update the running gear. Also looking for a 1988 Daimler interior, but need to buy the series one first; I decided on a 1973 as that was the year I was born in
For the wife- an XJS, 4.0 looks about best (cant remember if they did a smaller engine in the Facelift model?) (the XJs-C was launched as 3,6)
The wife doesn't like autos for some reason so it has to be a manual, and any Jag after 1998 with a manual has a really **** poor engine and the choice of 1 out of 5 sensors you will need to replace every time it fails to start. So AJ6 or AJ16 it is. AJ16 is a triumph but coil pack and V.V.T. are as close as I want to get to modern engines, I also hear there are issues with the lack of equipment that can effectively access and alter the engine management (it can be done, but the equipment no longer exists) (so i am told).
Is this enough reason to just focus on the AJ6??
Out of interest, could you Frankenstein the AJ6 and the AJ16 so you get the benefits of the AJ16 but without the V.V.T.
I am looking at Face-lift models, 92 to 95 with AJ6, I did think of a 1990 as that was her birth year but the late model is almost all sorted. I plan to update the ABS, rear anti roll bar, but was looking for suggestion from you guys on what I could do to make the perfect XJS? out of all the past Jags- the XJS has the most potential
I started a similar project on a 1997 XK8, but have found that other than the outer skin, everything underneath could do with being made better, and I am really sorry I started it now and considering just rebuilding as stock and getting rid, such a shame as they're beautiful cars
#2
12-03-2022, 01:36 PM
Veteran Member
cornishcat,
A few thoughts:
- The facelift 6-cylinder was always a 4 litre - AJ6 first then AJ16 after VIN 194775 (April 1994)
- I understand your wish to stay as analogue as possible, but I'd really suggest going AJ16 rather than AJ6. Whilst the AJ6 is very reliable, the AJ16 has a whole host of improvements that make it a significantly better engine. Yes, it does have ecu-controlled ignition, but it never had VVT. The V8 was the first engine to have VVT.
- Although having more ecu-controlled functions, the AJ16 is quite simple and IMO, incredibly reliable. I have had some maintenance to perform, but my car has never broken down from component failure in 20 years. The potential failure of certain hardware and electrical components is well-understood and documented and no less reliable than other makes. The engine itself is almost unburstable and capable of huge mileages before major overhaul may be required.
- Manual conversion is easy if you use the original Getrag setup - it's just difficult to source good used components because of the scarcity. The original Getrag 290 is very rare, but the earlier Getrag 265 will work fine and is easier to find. If you go aftermarket, naturally you have other (more expensive options).
- Engine performance upgrade is quite limited for an AJ16, extending really only to the Andy Stodart advance ignition bracket, a K&N filter (not officially for an XJS but it will fit), or bespoke exhaust manifolds and free-flow cats. As you mentioned, ecu tuning is difficult for most owners, but the reality is that there's not much you can do to improve it.
- A few people (racers) have used the AJ16 (or just the head) and set it up to run as per AJ6, but I think for road work, you're much better off just staying with the better AJ16 engine and setup.
- The Teves ABS fitted to cars up to November 94 has recently started to demonstrate one or two age-related problems, which can be very significant! With the absence of new parts for the earlier system, the later ABS system fitted from VIN 198335 is a much safer option and reliable option IMO.
A manual AJ16 is a great driving experience! Go for it!
Good luck
Pauk
A few thoughts:
- The facelift 6-cylinder was always a 4 litre - AJ6 first then AJ16 after VIN 194775 (April 1994)
- I understand your wish to stay as analogue as possible, but I'd really suggest going AJ16 rather than AJ6. Whilst the AJ6 is very reliable, the AJ16 has a whole host of improvements that make it a significantly better engine. Yes, it does have ecu-controlled ignition, but it never had VVT. The V8 was the first engine to have VVT.
- Although having more ecu-controlled functions, the AJ16 is quite simple and IMO, incredibly reliable. I have had some maintenance to perform, but my car has never broken down from component failure in 20 years. The potential failure of certain hardware and electrical components is well-understood and documented and no less reliable than other makes. The engine itself is almost unburstable and capable of huge mileages before major overhaul may be required.
- Manual conversion is easy if you use the original Getrag setup - it's just difficult to source good used components because of the scarcity. The original Getrag 290 is very rare, but the earlier Getrag 265 will work fine and is easier to find. If you go aftermarket, naturally you have other (more expensive options).
- Engine performance upgrade is quite limited for an AJ16, extending really only to the Andy Stodart advance ignition bracket, a K&N filter (not officially for an XJS but it will fit), or bespoke exhaust manifolds and free-flow cats. As you mentioned, ecu tuning is difficult for most owners, but the reality is that there's not much you can do to improve it.
- A few people (racers) have used the AJ16 (or just the head) and set it up to run as per AJ6, but I think for road work, you're much better off just staying with the better AJ16 engine and setup.
- The Teves ABS fitted to cars up to November 94 has recently started to demonstrate one or two age-related problems, which can be very significant! With the absence of new parts for the earlier system, the later ABS system fitted from VIN 198335 is a much safer option and reliable option IMO.
A manual AJ16 is a great driving experience! Go for it!
Good luck
Pauk
#3
12-03-2022, 02:09 PM
Veteran Member
I prefer the AJ6 vs AJ16 due to its simplicity. The AJ6 was around for a lot longer and the ignition system is as simple as it gets. AJ16 is not as good as a modern car in giving you OBD2 support and its finicky if you decide to throw in aftermarket coils, which will still be finicky if you also do use the more expensive factory ones. They both have their pros and cons, but the AJ6 is as simple as it gets
#4
12-04-2022, 09:07 AM
Senior Member
Hi Cornishcat,
I have a 1990, 3.6 manual with the AJ6 engine. Same year as your wife it seems! Had the car for the last 7 years. No major issues.
I drove several automatics during my search but once I drove a manual, I was convinced that was what I wanted - much more engaging. Also, there is so much low done torque that the car can be left in top at quite low speeds if you want to drive it that way. I wanted a facelift model as I was concerned about issues with the inboard rear brakes on the earlier cars (facelift has conventional outboard) and most buying guides suggested the facelift model was the one to go for with the AJ16 update. I believe the facelift cars also have some galvanised panels so rust less but they do seem to suffer from rust around the windscreen which has a different sealing arrangement than the earlier cars.
Anyway, my pre-facelift car had a rear brake and suspension overhaul just before I bought it and once set up properly the rear end lasts a long time so no issue there. Clutch was a little heavy as were other manuals I drove so suggest your wife try a manual to see how she gets on. Just had the clutch replaced at 139,000 miles on mine and it is lighter - I guess all the pivot points within the bell housing benefited from some lubrication. The gearlever can get sloppy due to worn rubber bushes in that connect to the box, but these can be replaced. As Paul has said, parts for the Getrag box can be hard to track down and there seem to be few places that will work on the box.
Manual XJS are thin on the ground compared with automatics so my advice would be not to restrict yourself to facelift cars but to look at any manuals that come up within your search criteria and pick a car on its individual merits which was what I did.
Good luck with your search.
Cheers,
LeeP
I have a 1990, 3.6 manual with the AJ6 engine. Same year as your wife it seems! Had the car for the last 7 years. No major issues.
I drove several automatics during my search but once I drove a manual, I was convinced that was what I wanted - much more engaging. Also, there is so much low done torque that the car can be left in top at quite low speeds if you want to drive it that way. I wanted a facelift model as I was concerned about issues with the inboard rear brakes on the earlier cars (facelift has conventional outboard) and most buying guides suggested the facelift model was the one to go for with the AJ16 update. I believe the facelift cars also have some galvanised panels so rust less but they do seem to suffer from rust around the windscreen which has a different sealing arrangement than the earlier cars.
Anyway, my pre-facelift car had a rear brake and suspension overhaul just before I bought it and once set up properly the rear end lasts a long time so no issue there. Clutch was a little heavy as were other manuals I drove so suggest your wife try a manual to see how she gets on. Just had the clutch replaced at 139,000 miles on mine and it is lighter - I guess all the pivot points within the bell housing benefited from some lubrication. The gearlever can get sloppy due to worn rubber bushes in that connect to the box, but these can be replaced. As Paul has said, parts for the Getrag box can be hard to track down and there seem to be few places that will work on the box.
Manual XJS are thin on the ground compared with automatics so my advice would be not to restrict yourself to facelift cars but to look at any manuals that come up within your search criteria and pick a car on its individual merits which was what I did.
Good luck with your search.
Cheers,
LeeP
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#5
12-04-2022, 10:38 AM
Senior Member
Putting the newer engine into one of the original inline 6's is a retrograde step in my opinion - if you want to be free of computers and modules (something that I fully concur with and can relate to) understand what it takes to run an older classic and stop believing that modern is necessarily better - because it isn't.
Most older Jaguars get a bad rap because those that really can't afford the necessary maintenance get them, run them on a budget and then bitch and whine when things don't work - and boy do those types bitch and whine -
With the simplicity of a technology free world goes the obligation for old school maintenance, I confess that I am one of those purists that you hear about and believe you should buy a Jaguar for what it is, not for the sole intention of turning it into something it never was, based only on hearsay or the experience of those bitten by a car they couldn't afford to treat properly, but your car your rules.
Most older Jaguars get a bad rap because those that really can't afford the necessary maintenance get them, run them on a budget and then bitch and whine when things don't work - and boy do those types bitch and whine -
With the simplicity of a technology free world goes the obligation for old school maintenance, I confess that I am one of those purists that you hear about and believe you should buy a Jaguar for what it is, not for the sole intention of turning it into something it never was, based only on hearsay or the experience of those bitten by a car they couldn't afford to treat properly, but your car your rules.
#6
12-04-2022, 10:49 AM
Veteran Member
#7
12-04-2022, 02:02 PM
Brilliant advice guys, thanks you.
I have found a 1994 4.0 factory manual with the AJ6., road ready, and just cosmetics required, priced at the top of its game, but it does look straight and its history is full and how the car has been treated by its former owners is really important to me- this car has been really loved and really enjoyed.
I have heard varied things on the manual gear box, most of it was negative, the best reason for this I have heard is because there are so few of them, engineers are only going to see them when they go wrong. As they're not 'run of the mill', so they're obviously going to find this one more of a task. The counter for this was explained to be by a Morris Marina Enthusiast "think about the era these cars were designed, mass production was in full flow. They're not going to uniquely machine every individual component of every single part, they all come from a parts bin somewhere, from a template that's not too dissimilar to someone else ". Conflicting isn't it......
I have found a 1994 4.0 factory manual with the AJ6., road ready, and just cosmetics required, priced at the top of its game, but it does look straight and its history is full and how the car has been treated by its former owners is really important to me- this car has been really loved and really enjoyed.
I have heard varied things on the manual gear box, most of it was negative, the best reason for this I have heard is because there are so few of them, engineers are only going to see them when they go wrong. As they're not 'run of the mill', so they're obviously going to find this one more of a task. The counter for this was explained to be by a Morris Marina Enthusiast "think about the era these cars were designed, mass production was in full flow. They're not going to uniquely machine every individual component of every single part, they all come from a parts bin somewhere, from a template that's not too dissimilar to someone else ". Conflicting isn't it......
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#8
12-04-2022, 02:17 PM
Veteran Member
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#9
12-04-2022, 02:19 PM
Senior Member
they all come from a parts bin somewhere, from a template that's not too dissimilar to someone else
The way things are now means that the cars of today simply will not be around in 100 years time, a steam engine from the 1920's no problem, but I can't even get some parts for my XF any longer and it is barely 10 years old. When the electronics die - and they will - the cars will die with them unless somebody is committed enough and determined enough to create a solution. Creating a solution however is made harder by the refusal of component manufacturers to share detailed information.
I am not a technophobe but nor am I a big fan of it either it has become far too intrusive and we have become slaves to it, there's no uninventing things - unfortunately.
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#10
12-05-2022, 07:06 AM
Veteran Member
The change to outboard rear brakes happened in May, 1994 around the time of the switch to AJ16, according to the attached time line that I believe came from a user on this forum.
But I wouldn't let that put me off the car. If your wife is special enough to prefer a manual, and there are so few of them (manuals and people like your wife), then have the brake condition assessed and negotiate accordingly.
But I wouldn't let that put me off the car. If your wife is special enough to prefer a manual, and there are so few of them (manuals and people like your wife), then have the brake condition assessed and negotiate accordingly.
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#11
12-05-2022, 04:55 PM
Veteran Member
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#12
12-07-2022, 09:46 AM
A slight change of direction, I am going to see a 1992 4.0l Manual tomorrow, its priced at the top of its game, mileage is about 150k but full service history and then every MOT, tax disk receipt, memento and certificate you can think of. HPI clear, fellow collector and after speaking to him on the phone I can conclude he appears to be 'one of us' So I am hopefuly and excited/
This one is the metal bumper, AJ6 with in board brakes. The misses is in love, but wants it kept standard, so will have to make her change the disks and pads and find out if she wants to stand by that or move with the times.
It has not done much under its current ownership, no advisories but I am guessing the suspension is going to feel a little slack, if I buy it, I will bring it back on a flat bed and until I can service, change fluids, clean the fuel system and work out how much rubber work I need to buy,,,, they're an XJ6 underneath aren't they?
Can anyone give me a heads up of what I need to start pricing, this car will be her daily driver, I need 3000 trouble free miles a year out it, there is a lot of rubber under an XJ6, knowing where to start would be a great help
If I buy it I will post pics,
This one is the metal bumper, AJ6 with in board brakes. The misses is in love, but wants it kept standard, so will have to make her change the disks and pads and find out if she wants to stand by that or move with the times.
It has not done much under its current ownership, no advisories but I am guessing the suspension is going to feel a little slack, if I buy it, I will bring it back on a flat bed and until I can service, change fluids, clean the fuel system and work out how much rubber work I need to buy,,,, they're an XJ6 underneath aren't they?
Can anyone give me a heads up of what I need to start pricing, this car will be her daily driver, I need 3000 trouble free miles a year out it, there is a lot of rubber under an XJ6, knowing where to start would be a great help
If I buy it I will post pics,
#13
12-07-2022, 10:04 AM
Senior Member
Recommendation - run it and see - watch the age of the tyres, do a complete fluid change perhaps but if it has been an enthusiast car it will be a matter of blowing the dust off. Don't assume it will be unreliable but do a thorough visual inspection of hoses ALL brake / fuel / coolant, if you have the right gear dropping the rear subframe isn't so hard (getting it back in may take a beer or three). Do an inspection of the ball joint covers to make sure they aren't split, jack each corner of the car and watch how the body lifts - see if the wheel seems to snap or jerk or come off the ground smoothly, rock the wheel top to bottom and see if there s a lot of play, if there are two of you get one to lever the wheel up while another watches the bushes and joints - DO NOT get under there. If you are really determined to give in to your enthusiasm to fix things without knowing they are broken as many of us do then satisfy yourself with a complete fluid change brakes / coolant / oils - that will blow a few hundred. Better still invest in 'recovery' breakdown and treat it as an adventure - I don't do the breakdown thing and it makes me stupid so my car has been in pieces for 2 years.
This is like planning to decorate a house before we live in it a while - and we all do it - tend to always regret it - at least in my case.
This is like planning to decorate a house before we live in it a while - and we all do it - tend to always regret it - at least in my case.
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#14
12-08-2022, 03:21 AM
Senior Member
Hi Cornishcat,
Only just seen your post of yesterday so hope this is not too late. A few points in addition to Ben's list.....
Make sure all the warning lights come on when ignition turned on and go out when they should especially ALBS. The latter will be illuminated when ignition turned on and assuming the car has Teves ABS (look for the black ball accumulator on passenger side of firewall) you should hear the pump clicking away. If it takes longer than a minute or so to stop from cold then accumulator may need changing. You should get about 3 applications of the brakes before pump starts again.
Drive the car and listen for rattles from suspension which should give you a clue of which corner needs work. There are hard foam bushes at the top of the front shock absorbers that only seem to last a year or two and give an annoying rattle over rough surfaces when worn. Check them from inside the bonnet through gap in inner wing. Not expensive or difficult to replace.
Make sure aircon and heater work especially as a daily driver. Fixes can be expensive.
Watch out for vague / sloppy gearlever although some of the connecting bushes can be changed fairly easily.
Like any other classic the XJS does like to rust. If you haven't seen already, have a look at the excellent rust guides on Just XJS website as they are brilliant:
XJS Tips, Tricks and Information - Just XJS
Good luck and let us know how you get on.
Cheers,
LeeP
Only just seen your post of yesterday so hope this is not too late. A few points in addition to Ben's list.....
Make sure all the warning lights come on when ignition turned on and go out when they should especially ALBS. The latter will be illuminated when ignition turned on and assuming the car has Teves ABS (look for the black ball accumulator on passenger side of firewall) you should hear the pump clicking away. If it takes longer than a minute or so to stop from cold then accumulator may need changing. You should get about 3 applications of the brakes before pump starts again.
Drive the car and listen for rattles from suspension which should give you a clue of which corner needs work. There are hard foam bushes at the top of the front shock absorbers that only seem to last a year or two and give an annoying rattle over rough surfaces when worn. Check them from inside the bonnet through gap in inner wing. Not expensive or difficult to replace.
Make sure aircon and heater work especially as a daily driver. Fixes can be expensive.
Watch out for vague / sloppy gearlever although some of the connecting bushes can be changed fairly easily.
Like any other classic the XJS does like to rust. If you haven't seen already, have a look at the excellent rust guides on Just XJS website as they are brilliant:
XJS Tips, Tricks and Information - Just XJS
Good luck and let us know how you get on.
Cheers,
LeeP
#15
12-09-2022, 03:24 AM
Hi Guys
It is here (will post pics once it has defrosted)
1992 4.0 AJ6 in black with cream leather. The car has been stored in a barn for the last 3 years of its life and condensation has been heavy, the carpets are wet- not leaky windscreen wet (i have encountered on my V12's) The floors are solid no surface rust on any part or side of the floor, its actually the cleanest underside I have ever seen.
Not sure if those of you here in the UK have noticed that it is somewhat cold today (9th December 2022 for the record). The recovery driver was late so didn't collect the car until about 6pm last night, and has left the very damp car on his flatbed over night, and driven it the 300+ miles to arrive here at 08.30 this morning.
Car strained to start, but fired 3rd or 4th engine rotation, all the normal lights came on as they should, but didnt go off, straight away I spotted the oil pressure gauge is about halfway away from its acceptable place of pointing straight, and it smells like its running really rich (yes the choke works fine but smells like it is filling the air with fuel rich smog (no smoke but it is cold). I have never encountered such a sharp drop in such a short period or time for a car that has moved only feet (on and off the flatbed). As you can expect I didn't have plan for this, so going to have a cup of coffee and a cigarette and wait for it to defrost a bit more in the morning sun and will head out and start shooting the usual suspects,
Any pointers on where I should be would be helpful so before you reply to this post- just read on and check I have not already updated
Car looks and sounds amazing by the way AJ6 engineering stainless steel exhaust sounds beautiful
It is here (will post pics once it has defrosted)
1992 4.0 AJ6 in black with cream leather. The car has been stored in a barn for the last 3 years of its life and condensation has been heavy, the carpets are wet- not leaky windscreen wet (i have encountered on my V12's) The floors are solid no surface rust on any part or side of the floor, its actually the cleanest underside I have ever seen.
Not sure if those of you here in the UK have noticed that it is somewhat cold today (9th December 2022 for the record). The recovery driver was late so didn't collect the car until about 6pm last night, and has left the very damp car on his flatbed over night, and driven it the 300+ miles to arrive here at 08.30 this morning.
Car strained to start, but fired 3rd or 4th engine rotation, all the normal lights came on as they should, but didnt go off, straight away I spotted the oil pressure gauge is about halfway away from its acceptable place of pointing straight, and it smells like its running really rich (yes the choke works fine but smells like it is filling the air with fuel rich smog (no smoke but it is cold). I have never encountered such a sharp drop in such a short period or time for a car that has moved only feet (on and off the flatbed). As you can expect I didn't have plan for this, so going to have a cup of coffee and a cigarette and wait for it to defrost a bit more in the morning sun and will head out and start shooting the usual suspects,
Any pointers on where I should be would be helpful so before you reply to this post- just read on and check I have not already updated
Car looks and sounds amazing by the way AJ6 engineering stainless steel exhaust sounds beautiful
#16
12-09-2022, 03:46 AM
Senior Member
Car strained to start, but fired 3rd or 4th engine rotation
Choke ?? - you have a choke - can't be the engine is fuel injected. Do a full service on it all fluids, dump the old fuel and get new stuff in there or simply run the car as dry as you can with the heater on full - burn the fuel and dry things out, the fuel may be degraded, you may find that the HT leads are 'damp' but it sounds like it may be suffering a bit of damp overall, it fired so don't panic. If damp is an issue you can temporarily hit everything under the bonnet with WD40 - that's what it was designed for.
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#17
12-09-2022, 04:51 AM
Wouldn't hold that against it - I suffer the same problem on cold mornings.
Choke ?? - you have a choke - can't be the engine is fuel injected. Do a full service on it all fluids, dump the old fuel and get new stuff in there or simply run the car as dry as you can with the heater on full - burn the fuel and dry things out, the fuel may be degraded, you may find that the HT leads are 'damp' but it sounds like it may be suffering a bit of damp overall, it fired so don't panic. If damp is an issue you can temporarily hit everything under the bonnet with WD40 - that's what it was designed for.
Choke ?? - you have a choke - can't be the engine is fuel injected. Do a full service on it all fluids, dump the old fuel and get new stuff in there or simply run the car as dry as you can with the heater on full - burn the fuel and dry things out, the fuel may be degraded, you may find that the HT leads are 'damp' but it sounds like it may be suffering a bit of damp overall, it fired so don't panic. If damp is an issue you can temporarily hit everything under the bonnet with WD40 - that's what it was designed for.
Thank You,,, I love old cars, what you say enforces why I bought this.
Will put it in my work shop with the heating on. Then I will start looking for my Series 1 XJ6 whist it warms up.
Another coffee and a cigarette first
#18
12-09-2022, 07:07 AM
Veteran Member
cornishcat,
Congrats on the purchase, well done!
The fact that the car started straight up is the best thing. Don't worry too much about enrichment at this time. Wait until you've got it fully warm and then see how it's idling. The AJ6 is a very simple engine really. Cold start enrichment doesn't work quite the way you described. It uses a coolant temperature sensor which provides a signal to the ecu to enhance the injector pulse width duration. There isn't any adjustment of the air. There's also an air temp sensor which does some fine tuning of the injector duration, but most of the adjustment is done via the CTS.
Once it's all dried out, I'd change all the fluids and filters first. Just make sure you know exactly how to flush and bleed the brakes. You have the very unusual Teves ABS system and the rear brakes in particular have to be bled using the accumulator pressure. Drop me a line if you don't have the documented procedure.
Cheers
Paul
Congrats on the purchase, well done!
The fact that the car started straight up is the best thing. Don't worry too much about enrichment at this time. Wait until you've got it fully warm and then see how it's idling. The AJ6 is a very simple engine really. Cold start enrichment doesn't work quite the way you described. It uses a coolant temperature sensor which provides a signal to the ecu to enhance the injector pulse width duration. There isn't any adjustment of the air. There's also an air temp sensor which does some fine tuning of the injector duration, but most of the adjustment is done via the CTS.
Once it's all dried out, I'd change all the fluids and filters first. Just make sure you know exactly how to flush and bleed the brakes. You have the very unusual Teves ABS system and the rear brakes in particular have to be bled using the accumulator pressure. Drop me a line if you don't have the documented procedure.
Cheers
Paul
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#19
12-11-2022, 01:06 PM
All dried out, I removed the front mats and foam pads, and cleared out the air con drains and replaced the door mirror seals so hopefully it should stay dray.
I have started to make my shopping list, I was going to use my local motor factors for the parts as they carry them for most of my other cars, I was fine with filters and some fluids, spark plugs and thermostats, but distributor caps and leads, I am struggling to find and have a feeling that my local jag dealer is going to be expensive= can anyone recommend a good stockist in the UK?
Oil pressure and engine temp gauge appear to be faulty, engine temp gauge only moves a 1/4 and oil just moves over to between the mid point and the high point.
The steering feels heavy-ish, plenty of nice red fluid in the pot and no leaks or knocks clunks or whines, just feels like heavy at all speeds- is that an xjs thing or should I be looking for something. Will check tyre pressures tomorrow, but feel I need to turn my attentions to the rear end......
Car runs great, AJ6 Engineering manifold and exhaust sound meaty and make you think you are doing 70MPH when you are only doing 15MPH, I have not opened it up yet but power delivery seems smooth,
But;
There is something not quite right with the rear end. As it's the wife's car I got her to do the test run route. it is a 2 mile circuit around Bude and takes 20 mins, its only light driving but I think its enough to expose any faults or potential problems. 15 mins after she left I get a phone call saying something is wrong with the steering its pulling to left and the gear stick is moving with it and the engine dies each time. The way she described it was as if the turning of the prop shaft is twisting under torque and pulling a wheel out of line which is causing the turning and the movement of the gear stick and the drop in engine is the strain on the drive motion as it twists (this was purely my assumption)
I drove down, couldnt see anying obviously a miss. Drove it about 20yrd and although I could sense something from the rear, maybe rear left, it was not as dramatic as she described. I put it on the trailer and dragged it back to the work shop where it sits.
Any ideas? its a pure 1992 model and not an early Reg 1993 (i hear first 93MY were introduced late 92- my car was registered in September 92). I was thinking about out bound brake conversion- maybe now is the time to do it???
I have started to make my shopping list, I was going to use my local motor factors for the parts as they carry them for most of my other cars, I was fine with filters and some fluids, spark plugs and thermostats, but distributor caps and leads, I am struggling to find and have a feeling that my local jag dealer is going to be expensive= can anyone recommend a good stockist in the UK?
Oil pressure and engine temp gauge appear to be faulty, engine temp gauge only moves a 1/4 and oil just moves over to between the mid point and the high point.
The steering feels heavy-ish, plenty of nice red fluid in the pot and no leaks or knocks clunks or whines, just feels like heavy at all speeds- is that an xjs thing or should I be looking for something. Will check tyre pressures tomorrow, but feel I need to turn my attentions to the rear end......
Car runs great, AJ6 Engineering manifold and exhaust sound meaty and make you think you are doing 70MPH when you are only doing 15MPH, I have not opened it up yet but power delivery seems smooth,
But;
There is something not quite right with the rear end. As it's the wife's car I got her to do the test run route. it is a 2 mile circuit around Bude and takes 20 mins, its only light driving but I think its enough to expose any faults or potential problems. 15 mins after she left I get a phone call saying something is wrong with the steering its pulling to left and the gear stick is moving with it and the engine dies each time. The way she described it was as if the turning of the prop shaft is twisting under torque and pulling a wheel out of line which is causing the turning and the movement of the gear stick and the drop in engine is the strain on the drive motion as it twists (this was purely my assumption)
I drove down, couldnt see anying obviously a miss. Drove it about 20yrd and although I could sense something from the rear, maybe rear left, it was not as dramatic as she described. I put it on the trailer and dragged it back to the work shop where it sits.
Any ideas? its a pure 1992 model and not an early Reg 1993 (i hear first 93MY were introduced late 92- my car was registered in September 92). I was thinking about out bound brake conversion- maybe now is the time to do it???
#20
12-11-2022, 01:20 PM
Senior Member
Simple tests - gearstick moving - potentially the transmission mount is toast - or engine mounts potentially, unlikely to cause the car to pull in any direction. It 'could' be the front crossmember moving around but seems a bit unlikely unless the bushes are really bad. If the back subframe mounts are bad and that's moving around there would be other symptoms but jacking up the car each side at the rear will tell you, pulling to the left means different things to different people - if the problem were at the back you wouldn't feel a pulling sensation - the car would feel loose at the back.
The only way you will know is to get it off the ground - since you are in the UK get an MOT tester to give it the once over - ( lot cheaper than getting a garage to diagnose - just a hint ;-) )
Local Jag dealer expensive - nope I reckon they will be as much use as the local motor factors unless yours is a bit 'old school'. There are two primary sources in the UK - DMG (Dave Manners Motor Group) SNG Barrat - don't know what SNG stands for. There are a number of other specialists but those are the prime movers for XJS stuff, in part because they're used to enthusiasts hounding them.
SNG Barratt
Dave Manners
The only way you will know is to get it off the ground - since you are in the UK get an MOT tester to give it the once over - ( lot cheaper than getting a garage to diagnose - just a hint ;-) )
Local Jag dealer expensive - nope I reckon they will be as much use as the local motor factors unless yours is a bit 'old school'. There are two primary sources in the UK - DMG (Dave Manners Motor Group) SNG Barrat - don't know what SNG stands for. There are a number of other specialists but those are the prime movers for XJS stuff, in part because they're used to enthusiasts hounding them.
SNG Barratt
Dave Manners