I have a 1989 Jaguar XJS. I just replaced the convertible top pump and convertible top cylinders. The top now goes up and down with no leaks. My problem is the rear quarter windows are out of sync. When the top goes down, rear quarter windows go up. When the top goes up, rear quarter windows go down. I have tried everything from putting the top in manual mode, disconnecting the battery, etc. I can manually get the windows to go up and down by the procedure recommended in the manual.
No matter what I do, they go back to the out of sync mode. No idea how to correct. Can anyone help Is there a procedure that I am unaware of?

 

Is it possible you connected the hydraulic lines to the wrong side of the pump? So when the "UP" switch is pushed the windows go up, but the hydraulic fluid is directed to the down side of the cylinder?

 

I used a new pump but I am certain that I have the lines on correctly. The pump I purchased is a generic pump set up for a Jaguar XJS. It was purchased at Hydro Electric

 

nickg112,

When you operate the window circuits with the hood in manual mode, do the windows work correctly ie Go up when you press the hood switch Up and Go Down when you press the hood switch Down, or are they also working in reverse then?

Cheers

Paul

 

I was thinking about jacboi64 response and thought that although I did not reverse anything, the top did not function when I got the car. I put a new pump and new cylinders. The pump is more of a universal pump with a electric plug that fits it to the Jaguar. Those wires could be reversed from Hydro Electric. Anyway I am not ruling out the possibility. This is how it is operating now: When I move the switch towards the front of the car, the hood or top goes down. When I move the switch towards the rear of the car, the hood goes up. The window goes up when the switch goes to the front of the car and down when it goes to the rear. I believe this is the same no matter if the top switch is in manual or Electric. I need to double check this but that is what I remember without the car being in front of me.

 

Just tested my 94. When I rock the switch toward the front of the car, the top goes up, and rocking to the back the top goes down.

I think the windows are correct and the pump isn't. If you simply swap the hydraulic lines at the pump everything should operate correctly.

 

+1. The windows are working correctly, the pump is reversed.

Paul

 

Thought I had it fixed. I reversed the lines on the pump. I have attached a photo that shows the original position on the pump. On the cylinders, Lines 1 (lower line) and 2 (upper line) are the driver side cylinder. Lines 3 (lower line) and 4 (upper line) are the passenger side cylinder. The photo shows the pump as numbered to the cylinders, you cannot see 3 and 4, Three is below 1 and 4 is below 2. This is the original position.


On the pump, I exchanged or moved lines 1 with 2 and 2 with 1. They both stayed on top.
I did the same on bottom. I exchanged lines 3 and 4 keeping both on bottom


I brought the top up and down two times and everything worked perfectly. Windows were sequenced correctly with the top.


Now nothing is working. When I hit the top switch I hear a click, click, click in the back coming from the relays. Top does not go up or down.


I don't see that I reversed the lines incorrectly if it worked 2 times. I tried bleeding the pump a little since fluid leaked out. Any ideas?

 

At that age the relays can fail. Use 40 amp replacements, not the standard 30 amp ones.

What fluid are you using in the pump? ATF is too thick, one that matches the spec is aircraft hydraulic fluid, #5606. It has a viscosity of ISO 13, ATF is around 36.

I used one made by Phillips 66: http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog...aAtEpEALw_wcB#

 

That's the fluid I used. Update: After I let everything cool down, Top will go up once and then it kicks out. Will not go down.
I do see air in the lines.
Normally on all convertible tops I use something called Fluid Matic for bleeding. I bled everything on the bench before I installed. Now I could have air in the lines. There is enough fluid in the pump, that you would think the system would still work slowly, To use the Fluid Matic, the top needs to at least go up half way to start.
Do you think that air in the lines could cause this?

 

Air shouldn't make a difference. I just had mine apart to replace an O ring in a cylinder and I filled the reservoir and ran the top up. It went about halfway and stopped. I put it back down and checked the fluid. The reservoir was empty so I filled it again and repeated. It went a bit further so I just kept putting the top up and down while adding fluid until the fluid level stabilized, and it seemed to self bleed.

I'll look at the wiring diagrams, I wonder if the different pump draws more current than the original and overloaded a relay and the contacts are burnt?

As you can see from the diagram, the motor grounds through the relays. When the top is going up, it grounds through the down relay, and vice versa going down. Those relays do wear out over time, so try replacing them. Use 40 amp relays, not the standard auto relays which are 30 amp. Replacing the relays cured my top of many problems.

 

Thought I would give an update. It is fixed. I reversed the hydraulics and top goes up and down with quarter windows working properly. The issue I had after it worked twice and then cut out was no more than a low battery. That is why I heard the relays clicking. Not enough power. I charged the battery and everything is fine. Thanks again for all of the help and patience.
I am going to post a new question on the radio.