The 0.3mm can make the difference between rounding off the nut if it is stubborn or getting if to move. Or the wrench simply won't fit, as an example 1/2" is 12.5mm, but a 1/2" socket will not fit on a 13mm nut. 9/16" is one where 14mm can sometimes work, but 3/8" ( 9.53mm) definitely does not work on 10mm bolts/nuts.

I'd be surprised if you can find inch sizes in Japan, but if you are ordering from the US/Canada it will be easy. The flex head wrenches are expensive, but nice. Not necessary though, a regular rigid wrench is fine. Where they really shine is if you ever have to change a fan belt. The nuts on the adjusters are 9/16" and fine thread and takes forever to do them up. The ratchet head makes it a lot quicker.

 

Thinking about it, I guess you need as close a contact as possible between the nut and the socket so that the torque is applied evenly rather than just on the edges. Makes sense.
Anyway, I'll see what Costco has, and then what I can get from North America.

 

Snap On makes a series called flank drive and that actually applies the force to the centre of the hex flat, rather than the corners. Like all Snap On, they are very expensive. 25 years ago I bought a set for a client and they were $3000 for a wrench set, I could have bought the same sizes in regular wrenches ( not Snap On brand though) for under $100.

But yes, you want the wrench or socket to fit as close as possible to avoid rounding off the corners.

 

Three... thousand... dollars...?!?!

 

That was my reaction at the time too! The client said they wanted Snap On and they were writing the cheque, so that's what I bought. The Snap On man was very happy to see me come through the door. I spent half my yearly wage at the time on tools in one visit. Fortunately, it wasn't my money

 

I missed the "for a client" bit. I thought you'd bought them for yourself. Still, the price is... wow. I'll bet the man was happy to see you. Or your client's cash.
And that was 25 years ago. What are they now?
Actually, I guess that was a pretty large set, as they're not quite as bad as that: very expensive, yes, but not quite nose-bleedingly insane. Here's a 7 pc 12-Point SAE Flank Drive® Plus Long Combination Wrench Set (3/8-3/4") for US$425.00.

 

No idea what they are now, I don't buy Snap On for myself and I changed work fields quite a while ago. The set I bought was bigger, it went up to 1-1/2" and the bigger wrenches are more expensive. I do think they have come down in price from then though, those sets look semi-reasonably priced.

I don't find the brand worth the money, nice as they are. The only Snap On I have is a set of British Association/ Whitworth wrenches, and I got them at a garage sale years ago for very little. At the time I don't think anyone in North America made the British sized wrenches and sockets. I use them for my older cars, SU carbs are almost all Whitworth sizes, as is the timing chain tensioner nut on the XK engine.

 

Well, I swung by Costco on the way home from the uni today, and checked out what they had.
DEWALT® 181 Piece Mechanics Tool Set
That link is to Costco UK, and they charge £99.99 (Wow! It's under £100! I'm saving so much money!). Costco Japan charges just a little bit more (about ten bucks more). Half metric, half imperial. I could dismantle the Space Shuttle with that. Probably not put it back together, but certainly dismantle it. Well, with the help of a blowtorch perhaps.

 

That's a comprehensive set, nice that it has wrenches and allen keys too, occasionally you need those. Goes up to 1/2" drive too, that is nice for bigger nuts and bolts, and includes the spark plug sockets. It would certainly let you do a lot, you wouldn't need to add very much to that to have a very complete tool set.

 

I forgot, as I do coz all this precautionary stuff is 2nd nature to me.

When you have released the clamps, and slid them out of the way, DO NOT simply try and twist the hoses off. You will 100% damage the heater core pipes on the LH side at the firewall.

Take a SHARP blade (scalpel) and CAREFULLY slice along the hose, so it basically peels away from the pipe/spigot.
Take this slicing SLOWLY, and a bit deeper each time, You DO NOT want to slice damage the spigot/s.
It is EASY, and what I do every time.
Sacrificing a hose is cheaper than a heater core, or a radiator.
It is a procedure I dont even think about these days, as mine have PLASTIC in too many places on the cooling system, and trying to twist off would be huge $$.

 

Thanks for the tip. I'd heard about that re the fuel hoses, but I suppose it's probably good practice for any hose replacement. I think I have a sharp knife, though I'm not sure how sturdy the blade is. My butter knife won't do, definitely....

At any rate, I need to sort out where I want to buy all these parts, and what other (unrelated) parts I need so I can order them as well and save on shipping.

LH refers to seen from inside the car looking forwards, I assume. I wonder if it's possible to encourage "port" and "starboard" for cars as well as boats....

 

Left and right hand in regard to cars always refers to sitting in the drivers seat looking forward. Doesn't matter if the car is RHD or LHD, the left side of the car is still in the same place.

Be very careful cutting hoses lengthwise over a fitting, as it is possible to go through and create a score line in the metal underneath. As the score line from the knife tip runs along the fitting and not circumferentially, the fitting can leak and cannot be cured by tightening the hose clamp. Especially on fuel line fittings. Don't ask me how I know
That's why I suggested running a small tool under the hose to break it's grip on the metal, then it can come off reasonably easily. I use a small screwdriver or a pick type tool, sometimes called an O ring pick. Something like these: https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/P...ernateProducts

 

I've read a good way to get fuel hoses off is with a soldering iron or something similar to heat and melt the rubber. Though I imagine you'd have to be careful of any stray fuel drops....

 

I think that might just make a mess, and I'm not sure I'd want concentrated heat near fuel vapour. That could end badly!

 

All good ideas.

BUT

When you actually lay eyes on those heater hoses at the firewall, they are generally pushed on too far to get one of those "pick" things into them.

A SLOW, CAREFUL slice with a sharp blade, peel it back, a SLOW 2nd slice, EYES OPEN, and off it comes.

Same with the fuel lines. There is NO hurry, the beer is cold, worry not, just take the time.

Down here that sharp blade can be:

Stanley Knife
Snap off Box Knife
Single edge razor blade
That sharp knife from the kitchen knife block (dont tell her)

Your limits are your imagination.

 

Needle nose pliers behind the barb or nipple twist and rip as needed to get hoses off. +1 for the kitchen knife haha.

 

Also

Best car parts washer, the DISHWASHER.

I wait till she goes shopping, knowing she will NOT return until the stores close and throw her out.

Only been caught once, my fault, I forgot the time.

 

Safer to wait until she is on holiday! Dishwasher works wonders on brake calipers, and the oven bakes off the caliper paint a treat!

 

Did she make you eat your dinner off them?

 

The rainy season has started (with a vengeance), so I didn't get a chance to poke around until briefly today before heading off to the office. Checked coolant levels--low, as expected. More to the point, dropped once I removed the cap. Presumably pressure is being equalized somewhere. Anyway, I then started the car up, turned the aircon on, and instantly there was a veritable cascade of coolant from the heater valve.

Quick video I took on my tablet

Yeah, I think that definitely needs to be replaced.... Interestingly, most actually dribbled down the back of the engine. The stuff that pooled on the vee is just a fraction of the total loss.