Thanks for answers to my questions in previous my threads. But I have some questions again.
maybe it is stupid questions, but anyway I will try to ask.

1)I have ordered differential output oil seal aftermarket part for 3 euro (but genuine cost 10 euros), I want use a fully-synthetic gear oil into differential. Are aftermarket seals will leak with fully-synthetic gear oil ?( i think my aftermarket oil seals are rubber) Or better buy genuine oil seals?
i readed that old genuine oil seals (which installed on cars) are leathers not rubber.And leather oil seals can leak with fully synthetic oil.
Somebody know, new genuine oil seals are rubber or not?

2)rear CRADLE MOUNTING CAC3067 which better to buy ?
First i thinked to buy original part but in shop i found 3 different options.
It is 1) original part, 2) aftermarket part - made with stiff rubber ( OE part is softer rubber than this one) 3) aftermarket part - made with polyurethane ( i think it is more stiff than 2) and 1) part) will be polyurethane CRADLE MOUNTING is squeaking ?

3) rear hub. must i change oil seal track C24791 or is it in good conditions?
I'm interested in the black band on it. At first I thought it was a special groove. But then it got to me,that this black strip - here worked place or matted the oiI seal. i can not determine - worn out the oil seal track or not ?

 

Hi,
re. 1) I have no scientific proof, but based on common sense: to make such a seal you need advanced equipment and mass scale production line; it's more brand than functional characteristics what you pay for

re. 3) I have exactly the same problem - I would just flip the oil seal track over. BUT I CANNOT TAKE IT OUT. Did you do this? How did you do this?

W

 

ALWAYS use genuine Metalastic brand cage mounts. You can get them from David Manners for less than the Jaguar price.


As the differential is such a hard job to service, I would advise using genuine, or at least top quality, oil seals. USA guys will be able to recommend good brands, if you do not buy genuine ones. I am sure genuine new seals will NOT be made of leather.

 

I am with Greg on this.

The seals are NOT a 5 minute task, so I ALWAYS use genuine seals, collapsible spacers, and prelube the new seals with Diff Oil. A new lock tab is a GOOD idea also.

The V Mounts are ALWAYS genuine Metalastik, NO substitutes, too scary when a cheapy lets go on the highway.

I only use Mineral oil in these old generation diffs, 85W140.

No leather seals in these systems that I have found, but plenty in the real early stuff, before the XJS was dreamed of.

No idea on that seal runner for the hub, never had issues with them. I would reckon a real good and careful "polish" would provide a suitable seal surface, as there is NO pressure in that area.

Dont forget to clean out the diff breather, or those sew seals will leak again in a heartbeat.