Hi Miamijohn

Short answer No

On my own Car when I had that problem, I had to file the holes in the Bracket just a little bit longer, in order to make that adjustment and also give it a little Tap with a Hammer, unless you can come up with another way because if the Gap is Too Wide then it may not work or not work as well as it should do (The Correct Gap is very important for obvious reasons)

As if you lose that Magnetic Pulse on the Toothed Reluctor Wheel, if the 'Jaguar Gods' are not Smiling on you, then it could cause the Engine to Stop just as if you went and Switched it off!

Not an ideal Scenario, if you are in the process of overtaking something at the time!

 

I'm having a hard time believing that if your injectors and plugs are firing that there is something wrong with your crank sensor. This sensor has to be working correctly for it to fire everything.

 

Thanks Xjeffs, Yes I have spark from each plug removed from the engine, and the fuel injectors are pumping fuel. The CPS simply tells the ecm when the firing order should occur. So without a cps operating correctly, the spark and fuel injection can occur, but at the wrong time.
John

 

Really silly question, but you didn't possibly mix up the 1-6 order of plug leads?

Paul

 

right, but its air gap won't be the source to change the order. Paul asks a good question.

 

Thanks Paul, no not a silly question as every possibility is worth exploring. So when I set the cams with the cam set tool, I brought the #1 cylinder to TDC. I left the distributor installed, so then the rotor was pointing to the #1 spark plug wire and from there I set the other spark plug wires, running clockwise in the proper firing order. When the cams are set with the tool, the #1 is on the combustion stroke.
John

 

John,

And you've set as 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4 clockwise? Are your wires set as this?




I presume that all your plugs are wet after cranking? Perhaps try fully drying and cleaning the plugs, then try another cranking.

Cheers

Paul

 

Yes I have the firing order correct. There is a label with the firing order on the air filter canister

 

One of the main reasons I think the problem is the CPS, that when I crank the engine, there is no movement on the tacho

 

Are you sure that when the distributer was pointing at #1 when the engine was at #1 TDC, that it was at #1 TDC compression and not exhaust stroke? That would mean spark is firing when the valves are open, not closed.

I have done this before.

 

The cam shafts were removed, and until installed the #1 piston is simply at tdc. So when the cams are installed with the cam tool, it then establishes tdc on the compression stoke

 

Update: I filed the CPS bracket as OB suggested and I have a 0.030 air gap now. The new CPS is not dead "on center" with the toothed sprocket, but very close. The crankshaft shaft bolt bottomed out, so I could not set the harmonic balancer the little bit deeper. Any suggestions before reinstalling the cooling fan and radiator.
John

 

Before reinstalling the radiator and cooling fan, I gave the engine a quick crank and the tacho bounced to approx 300 to 500 rpm. So I thought the adjustment on the CPS gap worked. So I put everything back together and still no start and the tacho moves very little, just bounces at 0 to 100 rpm. just as before. I double checked the CPS for possible damage and it was OK. I have now disconnected the battery and will leave it that way till tomorrow. My thought is that any residual energy in the ECU will drain away and then when I reconnect the battery the ECU will reset itself. Also is it possible that the CPS must be dead on center with the toothed sprocket to operate properly?
John

 

I repositioned the CPS with a gap of .030 and when cranking the tacho bounces at 200 rpm, so I think the CPS is sending a signal. But still no start, even with starting fluid. I double checked the cams position and the distributor and everything is proper there. As previously mentioned I have 50 lbs at the fuel rail and the injectors are spraying. I have spark at all 6 plugs when removed from the engine. I switched out the MAF sensor but no difference with either one. After sitting overnight and then I crank it, there is a ever so brief firing, which I think is just residual fuel left over in the cylinders. Checked all fuses and relays and they are all good. What am I missing???? As Winston Churchill said, "the yanks will usually get it right, after they have tried everything else"
John

 

John,

Forgive me asking but is there ANY chance that the plugs are connected one position out all the way around on the distributor, OR that they are assembled clockwise rather than anti-clockwise?

Paul

 

Thank You Paul and yes I do have the firing order set clockwise, should it be anti clockwise?
John

 

John,

Apols! I forgot we were talking about a 6-cylinder! Yes, it is clockwise!

Same comment though about whether the leads have been configured one position out?

Paul

 

Paul, When I set the cams with #1 at TDC, the rotor was pointing to the plug wire at the approx 11 o'clock position. So that being the #1, I then set the wires clockwise 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4
john

 

I am staring to think, that the ECU might be the problem.
John

 

The only other part that I think could be a cause for concern is the TPS. If the ECU isn't reading that, it won't start.

You've addressed both cam and crank sensors, so we can cross those off the list.

The last thing I can think of, and I don't have an AJ6 engined car, but there is a multi-function (or multi-purpose) relay in the AJ16 that, I believe can cause this problem. I recall reading about this relay....it's all I can think of.