Can someone point me in the right direction as to where I can find the step by step procedure for replacing these seals?

Thank you again,
Evan

 

Evan,

WHAT CAR/ENGINE ARE WE DEALING WITH HERE.

 

Sorry, it's a 1989 Xjs 5.3L v12

Thx

 

AHA.

Lots of stuff will be needed to come of, just to get working room.

Being a Marelli engine??, there will be a sensor there somewhere that will need to dealt with carefully.

Its been a very long time.

My brain is saying:

1) ALL belts off.
2) Fans/shroud out of the way.
3) BIG bolt in the centre of the pulley must be undone, it is TIGHT, so I use a long bar 3/4" drive socket, bar end resting on the concrete floor (LH side), and "flick" the starter, and I mean "FLICK", so maybe remove the HT lead/s from the coil/s so it cannot start. I NEVER wind a V12 backwards, some do so be it. Of course jamming the ring gear from under the car, and a long handled breaker bar, and plenty of "grunting", will do the same, but that bolt it TIGHT, and the starter works for me every time.
4) Slide that pulley pack off, its heavy so be aware.
5) The seal is "dug" out from the front, there are 2 grooves machined into the cover to allow this.
6) There is a "seal runner" on the snout of teh crankshaft that I ALWAYS replace.

Reassembly is obviously the reverse, and now jamming the ring gear will be required to allow tightening of that big bolt. If you have access to a larger rattle gun, tightening is simpler, but room is not on your side with the radiator in there, so one trades off against the other.

 

There's a step by step procedure here:

Replacing The Front Crankshaft Seal

I followed this when I did mine and it went smoothly.

 

When you say laying the bar on the LH side are you standing in front of the engine. Is it a standard bolt counterclockwise wise to loosen?

Thx

 

The conventio is that LHS or RHS always refers to the car as if you are sitting in the driving seat. So LHS means (in the USA) the driver's side.

So Grant's demon tweek is to block the bolt with a lever to the ground on the LHS, so that a stab on the starter will effectively undo (counterclockwise as any normal nut) the crankbolt.

 

Well done Greg, you are a master of words.

Dont forget to unplug the coil +ve lead. I did not, as HER V12 has NEVER started on the "flick", a slightly "long flick" will see it fire into life, so thought, NAH, could not happen, well that damn thing did, and that bolt came right OUT real quick. Reflexes as you get older do suck.

 

It worked. :-) now I have to tighten it. Thank you.

 

TOLD YA.

Drinks all round, Evan is paying.

Tightening is not so easy, but NOT hard. Take off the tin pan at the transmission front, the one that covers the flywheel/ring gear, and wedge a BIG screwdriver blade, tyre lever, whatever in the teeth, and wind that front sucker up real tight. A second pair of hands holding that wedge will make it easier all round.