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i have an oil, leak, annoying more than serious, from the bell housing of engine oil, not gearbox oil, I took the pcv filter out, totally clean as new, I took the pipe off and removed the air filter, the pipe and air cleaner case was as clean as when fitted after powder coating with no trace of oil at all, not normal for this car,
can this be a fault with the vacuum pcv valve I have removed it and cant make it work enough when sucking on, would this be a reason
Grant when the planets Uranus meets Taurus , it will change the Universe, its in process NOW it will take around 5 yrs .
any one notice any changes , like Virus, or earthquake, flood , storms of unbelievable intensity, changes in life as we used to be?
ways of business, working remote,etc?
I eliminated my oil leaks and did away with the oil clogging OEM valve by installing a catch can, it sucks 100% of the time and doesn't throw oily mist down the intakes.
I eliminated my oil leaks and did away with the oil clogging OEM valve by installing a catch can, it sucks 100% of the time and doesn't throw oily mist down the intakes.
Me too, huge improvement.
RGP
I do no think it would matter if you effectively converted the OEM system to what Vancouver and I have done; but without the catch can. I can see not reason why you should not just modify the tubes in the B bank air box backing plate, so that there is a continuous path (ie tube) from the inlet from the pig's snout out to the tubes that go to the manifolds, and, here is the best bit, just remove that daft spring-loaded valve thingy.
You would get good suction at tickover, progressively less at wider throttle openings, just like our catch cans provide. FYI after about 18 months my CC had about 3mm in it, so not needed on a Jaguar V12!
True. I was expecting alot more oil but in a few thousand km iv had a tablespoon at most and I drive it hard, the suction and clean intake manifolds were worth the effort/cost I swear it runs better even with my considerable city driving - no oily mist coating the runners.
OK
I used a catch can like this one with a nice little dipstick in it. They are all over the internet some much dearer than others, this is dirt cheap, but they are all the same
I have no room in the B bank wing area, so I took a barbed brass outlet off the pig's snout and ran flexible hose forward beside the rad and along the bracer bar to the can, which i mounted in front of the rad stack; but you could mount it anywhere you fancied. From the tank to the inlet manifold is another flexible hose; you could hook this flexible up to the original pipes, for example, by running it to them where the valve used to be (do not use the valve, obviously) and just block off the holes in the B bank airbox. If you have room that side, it gets rid of pipe runs.
In my case I ran it to a spare spigot under the A bank manifold that used to be the vac source for the cruise - which i have removed from my car. But any spigot would do. A few pics:
In your case, Rex, I see no reason not to just delete the valve and run a flexible straight to the cross V pipes, not even using a can. The main reason I did not do this was I wanted to clean up the V as much as possible. Dynamically, the can in the system makes no difference, the can is really there to collect water vapour and oil if an engine produces lost of it in the crankcase. Our V12s do not, as I have found out.
Reviving old thread. I put in a catch can basically as described. Pig snout to inlet of catch can, catch can exìt to small pipes from the old PCV system that feed inboard side of inlet manifolds. Result is a high idle, that can't be reduced by adjusting the properly functioning AAV. Pinching off line from catch tank to inlet manifolds reduces idle to normal.
How did you guys deal with the larger vacuum draw from the inlet manifolds? Did you put some sort of reducer in the line to limit the vacuum?
I didn't have that prob, perhaps gregg can help. I only kept the set up on for a couple of weeks. I couldn't see the point in it in the end if you have a perfectly functioning original setup,
The catch can's main advantage is that you can remove the pipes across the V. It also prevents oil build up in the B bank airbox, if you route the pipe from the catch can to a spare spigot in the manifold. Also, and very much so in my case, the oil in the engine is noticeably cleaner even after a year of use.
If it is giving you an uncontrollably high idle, then of course revert to the original setup, but as those pipes have no clips on them, are you sure no air is getting in somewhere?
The catch can's main advantage is that you can remove the pipes across the V. It also prevents oil build up in the B bank airbox, if you route the pipe from the catch can to a spare spigot in the manifold. Also, and very much so in my case, the oil in the engine is noticeably cleaner even after a year of use.
If it is giving you an uncontrollably high idle, then of course revert to the original setup, but as those pipes have no clips on them, are you sure no air is getting in somewhere?
Hi Greg, is it alright to vent the gas to the air instead of into the intake?
I used to do that on a Japanese car, although I did attach a small filtered breather at the end of the outlet hose.
Thanks
Hi Greg, is it alright to vent the gas to the air instead of into the intake?
I used to do that on a Japanese car, although I did attach a small filtered breather at the end of the outlet hose.
Thanks
Yes, it is, if your local regulations do not forbid it. All cars used to vent to the road, via a tube down to the bottom of the engine, until about mid 1970s. The main thing in favour of positive crankcase ventilation is the slightly low pressure/vacuum it creates in the crankcase, as this does help to stop crank oil seal leakages. For a while I vented to the air, but the engine did develop leaks, which the catch can setup venting into the manifold spigot stopped.
Reviving old thread. I put in a catch can basically as described. Pig snout to inlet of catch can, catch can exìt to small pipes from the old PCV system that feed inboard side of inlet manifolds. Result is a high idle, that can't be reduced by adjusting the properly functioning AAV. Pinching off line from catch tank to inlet manifolds reduces idle to normal.
How did you guys deal with the larger vacuum draw from the inlet manifolds? Did you put some sort of reducer in the line to limit the vacuum?
My thoughts in NO particular order.
That plumbing looks FINE.
The Can has NO 3rd port, so GOOD. Some have a 3rd port, with a filter to atmosphere, NOT what you want. The one I just fitted to the X Type came with that, and a plug to seal that opening when used as a Vac style can. Diesels etc use that atmospheric filer for turbo something or other.
The V12 has NO other open port for a huge vac leak by design. So, there is a lot of air getting IN somewhere.
Dipstick seal.
Oil cap seal.
Pig snout is split.
Timing cover access plug is leaking/missing.
Can itself is NOT air tight.
Ok, so it is better to direct it to vent into the intake. Point noted.
Thanks
Originally Posted by Greg in France
Yes, it is, if your local regulations do not forbid it. All cars used to vent to the road, via a tube down to the bottom of the engine, until about mid 1970s. The main thing in favour of positive crankcase ventilation is the slightly low pressure/vacuum it creates in the crankcase, as this does help to stop crank oil seal leakages. For a while I vented to the air, but the engine did develop leaks, which the catch can setup venting into the manifold spigot stopped.
08-07-2020, 05:03 AM
crankcase breather
