Cruise Control rebuild
#1
Cruise Control rebuild
HI .....another cruise control rebuild / repair job.
Is this meant to look like this?
I tested the solenoid both work but the Ohms reading on one was 50 ohms where the manual says max 20-30 from memory.
Oh and after removing the cruise control I left the bracket floating around on top of the engine..... went for a spin and had to walk home, engine cut out, would start but die when trying to get off the start.
Yep.. bracket was shorting to the middle distributor lead. Easy find but would have been better if I noticed it before walking home.
Is this meant to look like this?
I tested the solenoid both work but the Ohms reading on one was 50 ohms where the manual says max 20-30 from memory.
Oh and after removing the cruise control I left the bracket floating around on top of the engine..... went for a spin and had to walk home, engine cut out, would start but die when trying to get off the start.
Yep.. bracket was shorting to the middle distributor lead. Easy find but would have been better if I noticed it before walking home.
#2
HI .....another cruise control rebuild / repair job.
Is this meant to look like this?
I tested the solenoid both work but the Ohms reading on one was 50 ohms where the manual says max 20-30 from memory.
Oh and after removing the cruise control I left the bracket floating around on top of the engine..... went for a spin and had to walk home, engine cut out, would start but die when trying to get off the start.
Yep.. bracket was shorting to the middle distributor lead. Easy find but would have been better if I noticed it before walking home.
Is this meant to look like this?
I tested the solenoid both work but the Ohms reading on one was 50 ohms where the manual says max 20-30 from memory.
Oh and after removing the cruise control I left the bracket floating around on top of the engine..... went for a spin and had to walk home, engine cut out, would start but die when trying to get off the start.
Yep.. bracket was shorting to the middle distributor lead. Easy find but would have been better if I noticed it before walking home.
#3
Baxtor,
I like that plan, dont like this option....
WTF - surcharge special order????? so thats 306 pounds... $574 NZ dollars, can't see that getting a proved by the Minister of Finance.
While it looks nice and shinny and will do the job perfectly, my children like their kidneys and were not prepared to help even at 50/50 split.
So is the rubber bellows available on its own? I read somewhere it was but no idea where.
Also how do you pull the solenoids apart? anything that going to means its in the bin once i touch it?
Will be cool to have everything plated to look like new.
Looking forward to this little project.
Thanks
I like that plan, dont like this option....
Speed Control Actuator
Product CodeAC5964EPart Type:Standard£186.30 inc Vat
(+ £120.00 surcharge) Special Order Goods qty:WTF - surcharge special order????? so thats 306 pounds... $574 NZ dollars, can't see that getting a proved by the Minister of Finance.
While it looks nice and shinny and will do the job perfectly, my children like their kidneys and were not prepared to help even at 50/50 split.
So is the rubber bellows available on its own? I read somewhere it was but no idea where.
Also how do you pull the solenoids apart? anything that going to means its in the bin once i touch it?
Will be cool to have everything plated to look like new.
Looking forward to this little project.
Thanks
#4
Baxtor,
I like that plan, dont like this option....
WTF - surcharge special order????? so thats 306 pounds... $574 NZ dollars, can't see that getting a proved by the Minister of Finance.
While it looks nice and shinny and will do the job perfectly, my children like their kidneys and were not prepared to help even at 50/50 split.
So is the rubber bellows available on its own? I read somewhere it was but no idea where.
Also how do you pull the solenoids apart? anything that going to means its in the bin once i touch it?
Will be cool to have everything plated to look like new.
Looking forward to this little project.
Thanks
I like that plan, dont like this option....
Speed Control Actuator
Product CodeAC5964EPart Type:Standard£186.30 inc Vat
(+ £120.00 surcharge) Special Order Goods qty:WTF - surcharge special order????? so thats 306 pounds... $574 NZ dollars, can't see that getting a proved by the Minister of Finance.
While it looks nice and shinny and will do the job perfectly, my children like their kidneys and were not prepared to help even at 50/50 split.
So is the rubber bellows available on its own? I read somewhere it was but no idea where.
Also how do you pull the solenoids apart? anything that going to means its in the bin once i touch it?
Will be cool to have everything plated to look like new.
Looking forward to this little project.
Thanks
Assuming you are in NZ you could get bellows from Jagdaim in Melbourne Aust.
Last edited by baxtor; 02-16-2019 at 10:49 PM.
#5
#6
How easy is it to remove the solenoids ?
I would like to re-plate housing?
The black caps are removable?
Wiring is brittle, what options are there for replacing the wiring?
Can the plug be sourced or reused?
New rubber bellows is on order from Aus.. $30 AUD plug postage to NZ.
Assume deal.
I would like to re-plate housing?
The black caps are removable?
Wiring is brittle, what options are there for replacing the wiring?
Can the plug be sourced or reused?
New rubber bellows is on order from Aus.. $30 AUD plug postage to NZ.
Assume deal.
#7
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#8
Last edited by Daim; 02-19-2019 at 05:22 AM.
#9
The solenoids can be levered out a little at a time alternating at each end. There is a small plunger return spring arrangment in each cavity you need to take note of and be careful on reassembly so as not to damage or displace. There is a good chance the tiny seal pads are either missing or baked so hard as to not seal anymore so you may need to come up with alternatives.
#10
#11
#12
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Greg in France (02-19-2019)
#13
Can't find the DAC1995 wiring for 13euro... more like $163NZD delivered for two. Still best option.
Might have to look at other options at that price.
Also missing the rubber cover, any idea where I could score one?
#14
This option looks good, just need to find the correct wire, where would I start?
High temp wire, 2.2mm - I'm sure there is a proper name?
#15
Perfect, just what was needed. Great job, remember seeing that now.
Can't find the DAC1995 wiring for 13euro... more like $163NZD delivered for two. Still best option.
Might have to look at other options at that price.
Also missing the rubber cover, any idea where I could score one?
Can't find the DAC1995 wiring for 13euro... more like $163NZD delivered for two. Still best option.
Might have to look at other options at that price.
Also missing the rubber cover, any idea where I could score one?
I paid less but the price might have gone up since I bought two at once
#16
GXL is standard automotive wire
TXL is thin wall insulation.
#17
#18
Found 14 gauge = 1.63mm seems to thin...
Thoughts?
Also DTM plug .
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1set-Deutsc...sQS:rk:20:pf:0
will this suit? is it the gauge?
Last edited by Dukejag; 02-27-2019 at 02:09 AM.
#19
#20
Progress on this build.
Parts plated and painted, new bellow purchased and new plug wired on to the soliniod both ends with high temp wire.
I tested the solenoid both work but the Ohms reading on one was 50 ohms where the manual says max 20-30 from memory.
Time to test the wiring as per the BOOK......
Here I am hoping for some help please!
I will try an explain my writing...done in the bottom of the car.
All grounds tested back to neg - battery.
1) test black wire to ground - yes
2) yellow/purple wire - connects to inhibit switch should read low ohms in P - reads ground) but open / not ground in Drive) - might be meter but close to whats needed.
3) Black/Pink wire - to stalk - reads open and ground when pressed - so all good
4) black/slate wire connected to major switch - should open in on/off and ground on resume - reads - off / ground, on / open, resume / ground
5) yellow / white wire - connected to bellows should read 25/30ohms - reads ground and open when brake pedal pressed like it should.... again could be meter...they read 50ohm and 30ohms at the solenoids.
6) Yellow/black wire is connected to vacuum solenoid should read 50-60oms reads - ground
7) yellow /orange wire 12v - all good
8) green/ purple - connected brake light switch read zero volts and 12v when brake pedal pressed - yep all good.
so that is the test- result is ground when there should be ohms...... is it the meter? Power Probe 3 - connected to positive and neutral on the battery, is this meter sensitive enough to read low ohms or more suited to find shorts?
Lots of wire to read through from battery?
Parts plated and painted, new bellow purchased and new plug wired on to the soliniod both ends with high temp wire.
I tested the solenoid both work but the Ohms reading on one was 50 ohms where the manual says max 20-30 from memory.
Time to test the wiring as per the BOOK......
Here I am hoping for some help please!
I will try an explain my writing...done in the bottom of the car.
All grounds tested back to neg - battery.
1) test black wire to ground - yes
2) yellow/purple wire - connects to inhibit switch should read low ohms in P - reads ground) but open / not ground in Drive) - might be meter but close to whats needed.
3) Black/Pink wire - to stalk - reads open and ground when pressed - so all good
4) black/slate wire connected to major switch - should open in on/off and ground on resume - reads - off / ground, on / open, resume / ground
5) yellow / white wire - connected to bellows should read 25/30ohms - reads ground and open when brake pedal pressed like it should.... again could be meter...they read 50ohm and 30ohms at the solenoids.
6) Yellow/black wire is connected to vacuum solenoid should read 50-60oms reads - ground
7) yellow /orange wire 12v - all good
8) green/ purple - connected brake light switch read zero volts and 12v when brake pedal pressed - yep all good.
so that is the test- result is ground when there should be ohms...... is it the meter? Power Probe 3 - connected to positive and neutral on the battery, is this meter sensitive enough to read low ohms or more suited to find shorts?
Lots of wire to read through from battery?