As I understand it, what you say is correct. The Eaton unit would be correct for a 3.54, but to be sure the DTS guys would confirm it for you.. You would have to get hold of a pinion gear and a crownwheel to match it, as you said. The difference between the Higher and lower carrier versions is the position of the flange on the carrier that the crownwheel is bolted to. The versions have to be different as the crownwheels are different thicknesses and the pinion gears different diameters, according to their ratios, and after a bit you run out of adjustability. As the Dana casing in the XJS is a Dana 44, you might well be able to fit any Dana 44 compatible crownwheel and pinion, again you need to ask the experts.
As it happens, i have a Salisbury from a 3.6 XJS in my garage, which needs a rebuild, but it is a bit far to ship it!

 

Yeah, probably a little expensive to ship!

 

maybe some help, MY 1978 XJS diff had 3.07 ratio powlok,, when i needed a lower gear(hi number), i brought them into a 4Wd shop , guy looked at them went in back room and came out with a R&P 3.73 said they are JEEP gears, fit XJS diff no problem!
also my XJS

just showin off.
diff had 4 plates per side, something clicked memory, had a old 1959 Corvette Posi unit under the bench, took it apart and it had 5 plates (one plate Bellville spring plate), plates were thinner and they fit the diff housing!
must be ok that was 26yrs ago, still works and drives great, but when wet you drive careful!
in the dry does a burnout both wheels!

 

Greg, I know I'm going to regret asking this, but... I'm a bit closer. Will it fit in my '91 so that the speedometer will still work (i.e. has the correct pickup)? Where in France?

 

It will fit a 1991 6 cylinder car, and your existing pickup will fit into it. I am in Burgundy. The diff needs a rebuild, but that is quite doable at home. The rebuild is to fit new pinion bearings, set backlash and refit the pinion with a new crushable washer.

 

Thank you. This is where I get into trouble. My long term plans for my V12 car include installing a manual transmission. So, what makes sense is to up the gear ration to about 3.30:1, but of course, there is no speedo pickup for that. So 3:54 will work... and should bolt right in. The only problem is that I am in Germany, and the car is in Florida, and I don't see that changing in the next two years. It might (never say never), but that's not the plan right now.

Of course, for the next month, border crossing is difficult... But I do need to make a wine trip this spring... putting it in the trunk would be very inexpensive shipping...

 

Excellent, I can take you round the better value wine makers, you can experience a decent XJS and drive it, and you can pay for the diff in wine!

 

This sounds quite appealing. One thing this year has taught me is not to plan too far ahead. Once travel restrictions are lifted, I'll send you a PM and we can figure out the best path forward!

 

EDIT: Answered my own question. The Dana pinion input has 26 splines.

Ok, I'm still mystified about one thing. Does anyone know how many splines are on the pinion input for the Dana? I understand this is another expense if converting Salisbury rear ends for readily available Jeep gears, but I don't know if this applies to the Dana's also.

 

i converted to a single piece Aluminum drivshaft, much lighter, and it uses standard GM pickup truck U-joints and pinion parts, probably Dana stuff, (cheap)!
ron

 

Excellent thread. I am looking to install a locking type differential in my '84 XJ6 to replace the 2.88 open unit in there now.

Greg, what are your thoughts on installing a Torsen locker into my existing differential, versus finding an entire Power Lock Jaguar unit and replacing clutches/bearings on one of those? Mainly I am looking to balance locking effectiveness with cost. From some research on the forum I've read that the OEM Jaguar Power Lock is not terribly effective even when in good shape, versus a Torsen.

I am in Western NY, which is only 4ish hours from Detroit and DTS.

I am fairly happy with the 2.88 ratio, so not terribly concerned about going with something shorter (numerically higher).

 

All XJS' came with a limited slip differential. Are you saying someone replaced yours with an open unit?
Jon

 

I have an '84 XJ6, which came from the factory with the 2.88 open - which I would be possibly installing the Torsen into. Separately, I have the opportunity to buy a 2.88 LSD from an XJ-S in the junkyard, which would be a candidate for a rebuild. Looking for pros and cons on either option.

I figured this post would be more useful in this thread in the XJS section, due to the vast knowledge here, rather than start a new thread in the XJ6 section which does not have as much of a "performance" presence.

 

Nosgiba
The Torsen is just light years ahead of the older LSD designs for a road car. No idea about racing applications.
Your diff is probably a Salisbury (if it has a drain plug is definitely is). The spline count for and the design of the output shafts is different from the DANA and MUCH easier to service and find parts for. DTS will send you the parts (or I guess they will fit a unit if sent the casing) and they are not that hard to install, or of course a Local specialist can do it for you. Nothing much in it for price Torsen vs new traditional unit.
The huge advantage of the Torsen is it feels "active", on a corner you can feel the drive being sent to the outside wheel and the car being pushed round the corner as a consequence. The entire car corners faster and far more stably is far more confidence inspiring on cornering fast.
Any other questions, just ask
Greg

 

Check if it has a drain plug. If not it is a DANA and output shaft bearings are VERY hard to find, being sealed units. They are hard to find new locking rings for too. They are also expensive if you can find them. I would avoid a DANA for this reason and use a Salisbury, the Torsen version foir will fit fine and the output bearings are easy to rebuild and find parts for.

 

The open 2.88 in my car definitely has a drain plug. However, despite the relative availability of parts, I'm tempted to send the whole thing to DTS just to have them install the Eaton. I have rebuilt an LSD before for an E39 M5, and did a ring and pinion swap on a Ford 8.8, but my comfort level with the Dana 44 is not that high. What did DTS charge you to install the Torsen? I assume you shipped them the entire differential?

 

Greg, nsogiba
I don't mean to butt in, but I've had experience with the Torsen when it sold under the name Torsen-Gleason, about 35 years ago. At the time I was building a "swamp buggy" (purpose-built off road rig) with a Dana 60 in front and Dana 70 in rear. I installed a Detroit Locker in the rear, and because I didn't want to lock the front steering solid (like a Detroit Locker would) I came across the Torsen worm-gear locker. Absolutely the best performing differential I've ever had! Positive 4-wheel traction without any binding when turning. I would have one in my S3 now if my driving style had remained as it was 50 years ago.

I don't have a business interest in the brand or any suppliers.

Dave

 

I did mine myself as the thread explains. If you can afford to get DTS to do it for you, that is a great solution and I would go for it!
If they ship it back to you dry, remember that Torsens use standard mineral-oil based diff oil, NOT LSD oil.

 

Appreciate the insight. After re-reading your thread a few times, I have much more confidence that I can do this myself. Much thanks for the detail you put into this!

 

The salisbury diff output shaft rebuilding is not covered in my thread, but LOADS of people on here bhave bone them, so no worries on that score. The actual carrier swap is an identical procedure.