Any eagle-eye members know what this is?

 

looks like a 1994 / 1995 outboard brake rear IRS assembly

 

You got it! Picked it up at a (semi) local wrecking yard, got a quote on phone for $600 for everything and then in person when he realized there were no rotors said $400. A steal for a set of 3.54 gears and only has 70k miles on it.

I've had a bit of a time getting the right rotors, I bought rotor and calipers for a 94 but seems that earlier 94 models (mine) have non vented rotors and the calipers are mounted slightly different due to rotor thickness. Awwww Jaguar....you love to thwart me.

 

Good deal. Keep in mind the power lock in these is low bias. Good for safer handling but not great for straight line traction. When installed you may get some wheel spin when accelerating briskly compared to the 2.88 with normal power lock. To mitigate this you can install a set of modern and wider rear tires and appropriatly wider wheel ($$$). Or install a Eaton or Auburn locker center section. ($$$$)

I hope your car has working ABS 'cuase... The rear outboard brakes are so much more effective so rears will tend to lock sooner. ABS helps keep the car out of a spin.

 

nice find clean and no rust must be atlanta area, on salt roads.

 

I'm envious. The PO managed to break the cross shafts in the limited slip on mine, so at the moment I have the entire differential apart and am rebuilding it. So far I'm into it for $1100 in parts and special tools...

 

So I won't tell you I picked up an entire XJ40 rear end with LSD and 3.58 gears for $50, the centre and gears are now in my XJS. Straight drop in, all that was needed was to shorten the pinion snout.

 

No, please don't tell me! LSD's are not common here, most of the sedans seemed to have open differentials. It's interesting to me to build the differential anyway.

 

FINALLY got the rear end installed. Not quite drivable due to some final bolt tightening and brake bleeding. I'll add a post later about details of swap.

 

Great !

Park brake cables and brake pipes? Any problems?


Cheers
DD

 

Parking brake cable connects just as before. Brake line from chassis to cage was reused so no problems there.

I remade new brake lines from the center tee to the rubber brake caliper lines and I had a hell of a time finding the correct nuts for the connection between the cage hard line and the rubber brake line. I wish I could tell you the correct size nut but I ended up buying about 25 different brake line fittings, nuts etc and mixed them all together in my haste to fit the brake lines and can't recall which one fit.

I decided to reuse the ABS sheet speed sensor from my 89 car because the connectors are under the rear seat and I didn't want to dismantle the interior. The other reason I used the 89 wheels speed sensor is that one of the stock sensors that came with 94 axle was damaged. The stock ABS wheel sensors in the 94 rear axle are epoxied into the wheel hub and can't be removed without being destroyed. I've got to assume that the ABS ring on the 94 and 89 have similar tooth count and will work interchangeably.

 

Okay, so I'm gonna need some expert help on the diff swap.

Just took the car out for a test drive and the ABS is acting funny. Feels like it was activating the entire time the car was moving beyond 5 MPH-I could feel a shimmy/vibration in the brake pedal and the brakes did not work well.

Then, after driving back the ABS light came on and brakes worked normally (though without ABS).

with stock rear end everything worked normally.

Sooooo. I've got a 94 rear end with 94 ABS reluctor wheel and 89 ABS sensors. Am I to assume they are incompatible? If thats the case, any alternative sensors available? I'd rather not shell out $700 for two new ABS sensors.

Any other ideas for what problem might be?

 

Mine weren't epoxied, however, the hole is a tight fit. There can be corrosion between the aluminium housing and the steel of the sensor. If you are able to push perfectly square to the bore they should come out. Try twisting them side to side first to loosen them up, and also apply some penetrating oil.

If the pushing angle isn't perfectly true, then they will bind and won't come out.

 

Andy
Carefully count the number of bumps in the rings at the front, at thre back and on the old set you removed. One reason for your symptoms could be that the car thinks the front and rear wheels are turning at very different speeds.
Greg

 

Counted 48 ridges on both but they are spaced differently. Gonna start a new thread to clarify issues.