Difficult distributor 1978 Daimler V12
#1
04-11-2018, 04:32 PM
Difficult distributor 1978 Daimler V12
hi all,
As i rather gingerly delve downwards onmy 78 injected V12 I discover the mechanical advance mechanism is very tight and obviously not working. I note a light coating of rust on the rotor shaft etc. Obviously it requires attention.
The ignition system was working and the engine running ( very badly) before I started to take it all apart. Internally the distributor looks terrible with the numerous plastic components discoloured and showing signs of heat. Is this normal?
I have not removed the distributor yet. I am attempting to disassemble in situ, then remove the distributor body. Is this the correct path? I'm have a lot of difficulty in disassembling the distributor. I have removed the very fragile nylon screws retaining the injection triggers plate. I can't remove the rubber/plastic bang in the side of the distributor through which the wires run and am very reluctant to use any force for fear of breaking it. I also cannot remove the rotating plastic disc that contains the ferrite rods for the ignition, again it all seems so fragile.
would it be easier to remove the distributor complete. I am trying to disassemble in a very methodical fashion.
The good news is that from what I can see the internals of the engine looks perfect ( cams, down the crankcase breather etc.
any thoughts, advise or tips greatly appreciated
al
As i rather gingerly delve downwards onmy 78 injected V12 I discover the mechanical advance mechanism is very tight and obviously not working. I note a light coating of rust on the rotor shaft etc. Obviously it requires attention.
The ignition system was working and the engine running ( very badly) before I started to take it all apart. Internally the distributor looks terrible with the numerous plastic components discoloured and showing signs of heat. Is this normal?
I have not removed the distributor yet. I am attempting to disassemble in situ, then remove the distributor body. Is this the correct path? I'm have a lot of difficulty in disassembling the distributor. I have removed the very fragile nylon screws retaining the injection triggers plate. I can't remove the rubber/plastic bang in the side of the distributor through which the wires run and am very reluctant to use any force for fear of breaking it. I also cannot remove the rotating plastic disc that contains the ferrite rods for the ignition, again it all seems so fragile.
would it be easier to remove the distributor complete. I am trying to disassemble in a very methodical fashion.
The good news is that from what I can see the internals of the engine looks perfect ( cams, down the crankcase breather etc.
any thoughts, advise or tips greatly appreciated
al
#2
04-11-2018, 09:56 PM
Good news
penetrating fluid, time, gritted teeth and clenched buttocks has the distributor disassembled.
i note the vacuum capsule has failed.
Having replaced the cam chain tensioners in my XK8 I'm definitely of the opinion that plastic has no place in or near an engine is a bad idea.
regards
al
penetrating fluid, time, gritted teeth and clenched buttocks has the distributor disassembled.
i note the vacuum capsule has failed.
Having replaced the cam chain tensioners in my XK8 I'm definitely of the opinion that plastic has no place in or near an engine is a bad idea.
regards
al
#3
04-11-2018, 11:44 PM
Alan,
I found it easier to remove the whole distributor from my 1980 xjs v12, than work internally on it in the engine bay. But have it at the static timing mark before removing. It is a bit of a pain reinstalling with those 3 allen bolts thru the distributor body. Impressed you were able to do it insitu. I had to also replace the vacuum module as it frys easily. That rubber/plastic bung with wires in it hardens easily and I removed it replacing it with a dob of silicon when doing the Crane ignition conversion (I am undoing this conversion and going back to OPUS after Crane module/coil failures).
Cheers,
Paul
I found it easier to remove the whole distributor from my 1980 xjs v12, than work internally on it in the engine bay. But have it at the static timing mark before removing. It is a bit of a pain reinstalling with those 3 allen bolts thru the distributor body. Impressed you were able to do it insitu. I had to also replace the vacuum module as it frys easily. That rubber/plastic bung with wires in it hardens easily and I removed it replacing it with a dob of silicon when doing the Crane ignition conversion (I am undoing this conversion and going back to OPUS after Crane module/coil failures).
Cheers,
Paul
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