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So, I came by this XJ-S after walking my dog past it the last couple of months and noticing it hadn't been moved, after researching around the web on what this car actually was (this forum in particular), I decided to approach the owner with a few questions and see if they were willing to part with it. After a bit of back and forward, I picked up this cobalt blue 1985 XJ-S with 200,000 KM on the dash, for $5k (AUD). I thought it was a pretty reasonable price, after seeing non-running pre-HE XJS's going for around $7K (AUD), and facelift models anywhere between $15k-$40k (AUD).
(note those stains on the driveway aren't from her, we only just got her in - though in hindsight I wish she was the other way around...)
When I got it she was running, albeit with a slightly gurgling coolant tank. The interior is fairly worn and will need some upholstering (though I intended to change the interior in any case so the condition wasn't too much of a concern) and the paint is fairly worn with the clear coat coming off with a few rust patches from the paint chipped. As far as I can tell from the receipts in the glove box its been serviced fairly regularly with an alignment done not too long ago. The biggest thing seems to be some rewiring that was done 6months ago, and a LUCAS replacement from a short, at least thats what the owner told me. Seeing as it most likely wouldn't pass a roadworthy (brake lights, wipers and the drivers seat) it was sold unregistered, and that's where my resto begins! To get it roadworthy, and take it from there.
...Now might also be a good time to mention that I have no experience dealing with cars. My only solace is the few mechanics in the family, and my grand fathers garage that was kitted out (at least by 80's standards). I've started reading the Kirby book, which has been great for the specifics of the XJS, but I have to admit I need some primer material, so if anyone has some suggestions on some good basic mechanics books I'm all ears! I'm going to try stick to the 'to do' list in the stickied post as time allows.
For now, my priority list in getting her reliable enough for a roadworthy (and registration):
- Radiator flush
- Replace that yellow fan
- Fix/replace drivers seat (not sure if the leather is salvageable? See below)
- Replace the hood liner (any suggestions on the best material would be much appreciated)
- Headlights/tail lights
- Brake callipers (these should be okay, however they're on the roadworthy test so freshening them up would be good)
And that's it really. I've got 3-6months of only being able to work on her on the odd weekend, however after that I'll have a good 3months time off to concentrate entirely on her. My last questions is since I won't be able to get a paint job until I can drive her, should I sand back and wax (?) all the surface rust I find while she's effectively in 'storage'?
Your thoughts and questions (even if it's telling me I'm mad) are much appreciated!
Tons to discuss. I'll start-off with just a couple things......
Coolant gurgling in the tank is worrisome. Getting to the bottom of this would be a priority for me before doing anything else. If the gurgling occurs even if the engine is cold you might have a leaky head gasket. But, even without that unpleasant possibility, plan on a full cooling system overhaul....including removing the radiator for professional cleaning.
Plan on replacing the all the fuel hoses in the engine bay.
Congratulations. Nice to see another complete mechanical noob here. You're in the same country as the Wizard of Oz, luckily.
I suspect the seat could be salvaged by getting a new foam squab and rubber diaphragm (I think it's rubber) for underneath, and perhaps some stitching.
In your position, I'd (be curled up on the floor in a fetal position, whimpering softly) consider removing the bonnet entirely--make it easier to work on the engine, and you won't be needing it for a while, I suspect....
You have a decision to make:
1) Work methodically through everything that needs renewing and fixing, resulting in a reliable and wonderful car, or
2) Fool about piecemeal and never get the car right or reliable.
Most on here would advise (1) above! This is what the car will need at a minimum, and it is not worth driving it until they are done:
new suspension rubbers all round
new coolant water hoses throughout
radiator removed and cleaned
new fuel injector hoses
new fuel filters (there are two) and the fuel sump tank cleaned out and fuel lines blown out
new fuel pressure regulators
new/carefully rebuild brake callipers, pads and discs. Do not kid yourself that a 33 year old brake calliper and rubbers will be safe, new brake flexibles
new plugs, distributor cap, rotor arm and HT leads
oil change
test all engine bay wiring for brittleness and replace anything that is crisp.
new vacuum tubes and new distributor ventilation tubes
you will have oil leaks once you start to use the car, do not worry about them unless serious!
tyres
grease all the 10 rear axle grease nipples
You may find some things on the dash do not work, all is fixable, but brake fluid level warning light and fuel gauge are a priority!
Your aircon may not work, again not a first priority, but it is all fixable.
We all started once, so do not be afraid of the grizzled veterans on here, who are all helpful and supportive! BUT, I do counsel your very strongly to decide which system to fix, and post here for help and "how to" advice before, repeat before, diving in.
meanwhile a good socket set and open ended spanner set is needed, imperial and metric sizes! If you get serious about this car, your Christmas presents for the foreseeable future are sorted!
You have a decision to make:
1) Work methodically through everything that needs renewing and fixing, resulting in a reliable and wonderful car, or
2) Fool about piecemeal and never get the car right or reliable.
Yep. I knew (and budgeted) for Greg's list, and the potential leaky gasket (though we'll see if its just in need of a radiator flush). So option number one it is, with the first order of business the cooling system. Luckily my partner is on board with the project and wants to take care of the interior/leather seats.
This might sound a bit strange, but I plan on taking the hood off next weekend and cleaning the engine bay alongside a good diagram of everything in there to familiarise myself with the car (if anyone has a basic overlay that would be amazing). And at the same time taking note/pictures of hoses/wiring that will need replacing. I know it might be superfluous given the hoods going to be off and it'll probably get dirty again, but its something to start with!
if anyone has a basic overlay that would be amazing.
Full agreement here. I can probably identify about a third of what I see under there, up from almost nothing when I first saw it, but sometimes it seems every time I have a good look in there I find something new. Could the engine be still growing? So yes, a nicely labelled diagram would be amazing. Though there would be differences between the years, mind. Things like the ROM have diagrams, but only of select elements even when the entire engine is shown.
Whatever you do just bare in mind nothing on the Jaguar XJS is quick, but at the same time it isn't terrible difficult. I knew **** all about gas engines, or Jags for that matter 3 years ago now I'm at a point where I can go over things with British repair shop owners like I know it all (most of it anyway) and there are forum members here who've gone so far as to rebuild entire engines in garages in their spare time. It isn't as intimidating as it seems. Also..if you drink be sure to stock up and have a cold one ready, you'll need it.
As for your rust issues please please look up Corroseal, I've saved a half dozen cars/trucks with this **** they use it on ocean drilling rigs, I've got a whole list of life saving products you can utilize to if your interested.
Search up XJS Focus manual - I have found this very good to outline how things work.
PM me your email address and I will send it to you, it really good and explains how each system works, what each part does.
I am a new soon to be XJS owner.... good to say high from NZ.
Quick question, since the XJ-S is garaged away from me (and hopefully this will save me a back and forth trip). What tools will I need to remove the hood? I didn't see anything specific mentioned in the Palm manual, so I'm just assuming it's the standard stuff? I'm also guessing that a tarp is the best thing to put over the exposed engine bay once the hood's off?
Quick question, since the XJ-S is garaged away from me (and hopefully this will save me a back and forth trip). What tools will I need to remove the hood? I didn't see anything specific mentioned in the Palm manual, so I'm just assuming it's the standard stuff? I'm also guessing that a tarp is the best thing to put over the exposed engine bay once the hood's off?
Cheers
1/2" or 13mm socket for hinge bolts. The struts will the same size socket as hinges and a hand to lift it off would help.