It's a good thing I was sitting down when the mechanic called. I knew it would be bad, but didn't anticipate just how bad. Nothing is inexpensive on the beloved 1990 Jaaaaaaaaaaag (as Jeremy Clarkson would say), but this was breathtaking.

At 97,000 miles, the rear brakes began scraping. If they'd emitted the telltale squeak of pads near the end of their useful life, I'd not heard it. It seems we went straight to metal-on-metal about a week ago. Additionally, two of the rear shocks are shot, so I think it would be worth the effort to drop the independent rear suspension and do this properly. The shop quoted $4,000.

Now here's where I need this forum's candid advice. I don't have a lot of time, but for $4,000 I can make some time. I daily this XJS in Washington, DC (and can walk to work). Although my home garage & tools are in Alabama, I have access to Fort Meade's base MWR shop that comes replete with multiple lifts, tools, and even a few experienced volunteers to help. If this were my 1966 Cadillac Fleetwood, I wouldn't give changing the rear brakes and shocks a second thought, but being my somewhat abusive XJS, I'm nervous. What if I can't do this? What if I drop the rear end on this Jag, find myself overwhelmed, and bust Humpty Dumpty? So some questions:

1. Instructions: I have the ROM on order, but is there an electronic scan somewhere? I've also reviewed the Haynes instructions (not so helpful) and several YouTube videos. But I'd welcome more advice, instructions, step-by-steps, encouragement, and videos.

2. Parts: I've secured (from our forum's sponsor, thanks SNG Barratt) new pads, new rotors, new calipers, four new shocks, and all the rubber for mounting the IRS cage and the trailing arm bushings. The car itself spent its life in Texas, so is dry and rust free. I don't anticipate a rusty disaster. Anything I'm forgetting here?

3. Time: Can I make a driver-quality repair in a 20 hours? The shop is open 7 hours on Friday, 8 hours on Saturday, and 5 hours on Sunday. I'd rather not drag this into two weekends, but will rely on your advice here. Also: I'm an English major, not an engineer, so factor in stupidity.

4. Tools: The shop has a robust collection of tools, but are there any that I should carry in or pre order?

Thanks in advance for your help and advice.

Morgan
1990 Jaguar XJ-S

 

Heck, I learned to adjust valves on a Porsche 911 in the MWR shop in Quantico. Between the lift, tool availability, and additional eyes, why not?

As far as the timing, more will depend on rusted fasteners than English Major nonsense. I would do it.

 

I'd add a new rubber brake hose to your parts list. There's only one hose in the rear going between the chassis and the subframe. SNG has uprated stainless hoses for the xj-s. Consider new exhaust hangers since they're a pain to get to with the subframe in the car and they are a common cause of exhaust clunks. If you fancy a little upgrade, remote bleeder hoses are available for the Jag IRS which makes the process of bleeding the rear brakes much more convenient. You'll also need some new safety wire.

Having a lift is a huge asset, you might consider lifting the car off the (well supported) subframe rather than lowering it out of the lifted car.

There will be camber shims between the half shafts and the rotors- make sure you keep track of them and transfer the shims when replacing the rotors.

You've clearly put some thought into your plan, which is great. 20 hours is more than enough time for what you're talking about, barring any nasty surprises.

Your car is a '90 so make sure the ABS and speed sensor wiring is disconnected and clear when separating the subframe.

The radius arm bolts are usually the ones that put up the biggest fight, having an impact gun or a long breaker bar is a big help. Try to get both ends freed up with the subframe still bolted in the car. And when replacing the bushes, take note of the proper orientation before pressing out the old ones.

Use the rear brakes (or e-brake) and crack every fastener that spins that you plan to touch before disconnecting anything.

I like using a paint pen to mark fasteners that have been torqued down so nothing gets forgotten.

 

There are two ways I've done this.
One is to drop the suspension complete as you suggested.
The other is to swing the lower control arms down and replace the rotors that way.

A lift is probably required for the 'swing-the-arms-down' method.

I don't really have a preference except for rusty fasteners or body, then I might opt for just the lower arms.

 

Thanks for the support and by the way, great color on your 91!

 

These are all great tips, especially on loosening the bolts beforehand, the paint pen (ordered), and the flexible brake line (also ordered). Many thanks for the time you took crafting a thoughtful reply. It's really appreciated.

 

Drop the frame. The hardest part is getting the back high enough to remove it, start trying to pop those drive shaft nuts n such with the frame in the car you're signing up for alcoholics anonymous. Is it possible to do with the frame in sure, recommended nope absolutely nope.

You need to be confident in the cars support too because you will need to spend some time under there getting quite agressive so doing this on anything but a flat and level surface probably isn't smart, if the car comes down your worrying days are over if you get between it and the pavement.

My advice is to plan on replacing the brake calipers and handbrake mechs with rebuilt units, new pads etc and disks - this location isn't nice to get to so unless feeling masochistic you shouldn't be planning on a repeat any time soon - I know some regard this as therapy but to each their own.

When you do the propshaft bolts the longer the spanners used the better, that sucker is heavier than you think when it is above your head. The brake pipe can also get testy so make sure to have decent pipe union spanners - ordinary open ended wrenches may work but not if you have my luck, be sure to hit both ends of the pipe with something like Kroil or Mouse Milk or penetrant of your choice (WD40 is not a penetrant) for a few days prior to declaring war, in fact do this process for all the nuts and bolts you will be touching - don't forget the exhaust - I had so much fun with mine I ended up cutting it off.

If I recall it is 8 bolts on the car, leave 4 of these in place - 2 each side, 1 per mount but make sure you have cleaned and lubed them and they are 'loose', 4 bolts in the prop shaft, one brake pipe, one handbrake cable then the lower damper mounts each side because you can't remove the radius arm bolt otherwise, then both exhausts need to be disconnected befoire and after the frame - will any of these be siezed in place - well if your luck is like mine they sure will. You need a very good transmission jack, chains to make sure it is secured to said jack because the frame will try to tip, get a pallet and cut it in half - stack both halves and you have a bench to work on, you don't want the frame to drop ir hit the ground or you will likely break off the greasing point that nobody ever greases - then you're in the hurt locker - don't try this on saw horse type frames unless you have some substantial marine ply across them or when your giving it some it will slide off and land on whatever the most precious item nearby is.

Under no circumstance remove the pivots at either end on the bottom without checking back here but it is best not to mess with them lest the worms escape the confines of their container

Oh and do not try to manhandle this thing on your own without lifting gear unless medical bills are no problem for you - it is heavier than it looks

 

Morgan,

Lots of helpful suggestions from everyone. Remember that as you have the Teves ABS system, the rear brakes must be bled in a very specific manner as it is not pedal pressure that forces fluid to the rear brakes. Use the Teves, not Jaguar. procedure and if you haven't got it, post back and I'll send it.

Will you do the jobs in the hours allocated? 3 things will influence that:

1. Read everything & write out a very detailed procedure and then follow it through
2. How corroded are some of the fixings, particularly areas such as the radius arm mounts to the body and your ability to remove teh arms, press out teh bushes and install new ones. And do not use anything other than genuine metalastik or you will regret it
3. Sadly, you are going to have to resist the "whilst I'm in there" syndrome. For example, you really should blast and repaint the cage, strip and paint all the components fit new bolts etc etc. But you just won't have time. It's a shame as it's the one time to do all those things.

Good luck

Paul

 

On that point though it probably wouldn't hurt to offer the overaxle fuel lines some TLC - now if there's a can of worms to open that would be one of them -

 

Hi Morgan

Having Rebuilt the IRS Cages on 3 of my XJS it is a fairly easy job to do but only providing you take your time and look upon this job as a labor of love, as if you try and rush it then something is bound to go wrong, as you might Chew up the Washer Set-up on the Fulcrum Shafts and then not be able to get those Shafts back as easily as it was to take them out

As that Complicated Washer Set up for the Fulcrum Shafts is a bit of a Chinese Puzzle that sometimes requires a delicate Touch and sometimes a FBH

And while I do appreciate that you just want the Car running, I do have a bit of a Feeling that you are going to hate yourself if you don't do this job properly

So since you have a Time Constraint and have maybe never done this kind of job before, you could as you say be 'Overwhelmed' at the task before you, as once you make a start on this, then its all or nothing and there is no going back

So if I were you then this is what I would do:

Just 'Bite The Bullet and get a Fully Reconditioned IRS which will probably set you back $4000

I know that's a lot of money but it could take you 20 hours just to remove your Old IRS and put the New one back in but do NOT part with your Old IRS in some sort of Service Exchange deal

Instead you could recondition the Old one when you have the time to do it properly and then either keep it just in case you ever get another Jag or Sell the one that you've rebuilt for a Couple of Thousand Dollars to offset the Cost

I would also be wary of letting your Garage drop the Cage for you, as that is all that they might be Planning to do for $4000 and may even want the same for putting the Cage back!

Though in the event that you decide to go and 'Take the Brave Pills'

This is my 'Step by Step' Guide of how I did mine, including every photo that you will ever need

Removing and Rebuilding the IRS Cage on a 1990 XJS V12 Removing and Rebuilding the IRS Cage on an XJS V12

 

Hi Morgan

I had the IRS out for the first time a short while back and personally I would not try to attempt doing it in one weekend. Maybe it is just me but I hate the time pressure. There are just too many surprises on the way and I just need to walk away at take some time to calm down and not attempt something stupid and break something.

In the very beginning I had problems getting the prop shaft bolts out: someone had been there before and rounded up the nuts. I thought I had all the parts at hand when starting but still ended up ordering replacements for some bolts, washers and nuts I did not want to reuse.

I also replaced the subframe mounts which seemed to be original but still not showing any major signs of separation. I did make a jig trying to get the new ones aligned the same way as the old ones but I'm not sure if that helped at all: it was still difficult to get all the mounting bolts back in. I have a 1-post lift for the car and a lifting trolley table I had the IRS on.

One major pain was the exhaust: the rear silencers had been touching the sides of the tunnels and getting the exhaust aligned did take a lot of time and of course there were spots where the paint had to be touched up.

Thanks,
Jukka

 

Hi Morgan

Quick Update:

If you just want to Replace the Rear Brake Pads (without replacing the Rotors) then this is a very easy job that can be done in less than a Couple of Hours but do not force the Old Brake Pads back in the Calipers without undoing the Bleed Nipple or it will/could force Brake Fluid back into the Master Cylinder Actuator, which could cause a multitude of problems with the operation of the Master Cylinder Actuator

Don't let the Brake Reservoir ever Run dry or you could have a Nightmare on your Hands and have to Bleed all the Brakes

When replacing the Rear Brake Pads do this on a 4 Post Lift as otherwise you could damage or tear off the Rubber Mountings for the Cage (Never leave the Cage Hanging Down Unsupported)

As for replacing the Springs and Dampers: Check to See if they come ready assembled (as some don't)

Replacing these in a day is quite doable without removing the Cage but again Do Not leave the rear Cage Unsupported for reasons already mentioned, so make sure you've got the Cage Supported underneath its Base Plate

Also be very Careful when removing the Shafts the go through the Bottom of the Dampers as they could drop without warning and take you fingers off So get some help with doing this if you have never done it before

The Rotors and the Calipers are the Hardest Parts to Change, in which case its much easier if you drop the Cage and do this while the Cage is out of the Car, so maybe you could leave those for when you have more time

Make sure you get Solid Rotors and not the Split Rim OEM ones, as Aftermarket are better and are the ones that many of us use

Good Luck

Alex (OB)

 

Mine is an 87 - so doesn't have ABS, but should be largely the same as the 1990 version. If the only thing required right now is pads and shocks, then the IRS doesn't need to come off. The pads can be replaced from under the car, very straightforward if you have access to a lift. (A drive on one preferably to avoid hanging the IRS.) The shop manual shows the details. Good advice earlier about opening the bleed screws before pushing the calipers back. Also Kroil is great for helping get fasteners undone! The shock absorbers are also easy to remove. It sounds like the shop has great tools and lifting equipment - but here's how I've done it using floor jacks: Raise the rear using wood under the IRS tie plate and support the frame with stands at the lifting points. (Keep jack under the IRS to avoid/minimize hanging IRS by the metalastik mounts) Remove rear wheels obviously. The shock absorbers should be at max extension. Support hub using another jack so it doesn't fall when shocks are removed (be careful of grease fittings). Tap out the lower mounting shaft so shock absorbers are dangling from top mount and remove top bolts. Be careful when removing lower shaft because there could be some residual tension if the front and rear shocks don't extend exactly the same amount (might be as much as 1/4") Adjusting hub support jack can help line things up.

While in there I'd do the following if its not been done for a while: Grease the wishbones, hubs, UJs, Change the brake fluid. Check the rear rotor for thickness, lip and overall condition. Look for differential oil leaks - especially from the output shafts. Check the rubber mountings for cracks, check the rear radius arm bushes. Basically assess if the IRS really needs to come out for a thorough overhaul. If it does look like removal is necessary, check the exhaust to see if it will cooperate. A real overhaul of the IR will take a while, and best done if you're not in too much of a hurry. This is one of those jobs that can really grow.

If new pads and shocks can buy some time - I'd do the "driver repair" and get ready for a longer term over-winter project. HTH, Good luck!

 

Paul, this really makes a lot of sense, especially #3. And yes, I would very much appreciate the Teves bleeding instructions if you have them handy!

 

Alright gents--thank you again for all of the advice, which I've carefully read. And @orangeblossom , I read your entire post (with all of its tremendous pictures) very carefully. Great work!

I've written out the step-by-step below and would appreciate your comments. There are several steps where I still have questions. ALSO--I would greatly appreciate a scan of the ROM instructions, as my book won't arrive in time.

Day 1:Begin by re-soaking every bolt in PB Blaster


Step 1

Check fluid in the brake reservoir. Remove spare tire from trunk. Remove carpet trim. Remove the Speed Sensor, blue plug, grey wire. Loosen 7 baffle plate holding bolts. (1 hour)

Step 2

Loosen the radius arm bolts (1 hour)

Step 3

Disconnect the ABS sensors. Unclear how this is done.

Step 4

Raise the XJ-S (drive-on lift preferred)

Step 5

Loosen the exhaust bolts (1 hour)

Step 6

Loosen the prop shaft bolts to the differential (1 hour)

Step 7

Lower damper mounts? Unclear on this.

Step 8

Remove rear wheels and loosen cage support bolts (1 hour)

Step 9

Remove the trailing arms from the main body frame (1 hour)

Step 10

Remove the four differential/prop shaft bolts (1 hour)

Step 11

Unscrew or cut through the flexible brake hose (30 minutes)

Two 15mm wrenches needed

Step 12

Remove rear silencers and exhaust tips (1 hour)

Step 13

Disconnect the handbrake (2 hours). Unclear how best to do this. I won't be able to craft a special tool

Step 14

Drop the IRS (1 hour)

Step 15

Remove fulcrum spring shafts. Remove the radius arms from the IRS frame (2 hours)

Step 16

Press out the radius arm bushings with a die/press (1 hour)

Step 17

Remove the metal cage shroud from the differential (1 hour)

Step 18

Remove fulcrum shafts by unscrewing the nut a good bit and then tapping them flush with a hammer to the other side. (1 hour)

Get 1/2 inch copper tube (outer dimensions) for a dummy fulcrum shaft. Or solid piece of round bar Get a piece of “studding” (rod that will fit inside the copper tube)

All the components: https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/

Step 19

Remove the handbrakes and associated pronged springs (1 hour)

Step 20

Must I remove the universal joint covers (hose clamp and drill out pop rivets)?

Step 21

Remove caliper bolts with a 5/8 socket (1 hour)

Step 22

Remove the rotors with a rattle gun (1 hour)

Mind the shims!

Step 23

Remove the shocks/springs. Replace all four shocks. (2 hours) Need advice here on how to remove and then reinstall the shocks from the springs.

[img]blob:https://www.jaguarforums.com/7b14de42-585d-431a-8a32-55ea63f96ada[/img]



Step 24

Take out the differential drain plug; use short extension on a rattle gun. Copper grease to re-install.

Step 25

Install rotors. Torque bolts to 55 lbs.

Step 26

Install new calipers with a 5/8ths . Useful Tip: When you put the Caliper back do the Top Bolt first 'Just finger tight' then using either a Screwdriver or in this case a FB Lever, use it to gently push on the head of the Bottom Bolt, then rock the Caliper up and down until you feel the Tip of the Bottom Bolt start to go into the Hole

Check that the rotor is centered properly between the calipers

Step 27

Thread stainless steel lock wire through the pre-drilled holes (start at lower bolt)

Step 28

Install brake pads

Step 29

Reinstall emergency brake. Use an R clip!

Step 30

Reinstall cage

Step 31

Flip cage upside down, reinstall fulcrum pins

Step 32

Grease all fittings

Step 33

Reinstall the IRS

Step 34

Install the curve pipes over the drive shafts. Get them in their hangers!

Step 35

Reconnect the flexible brake hose

Step 36

Reconnect the prop shaft, user copper grease

Step 37

Reconnect the speed wire

Step 38

Reconnect the ABS sensor? Need help here

Step 39

Reconnect the radius arms

Step 40

Bleed the brakes. Need proper instructions.

 

Take a few days with the PB - perhaps a couple of times a day ... seems like you're now planning a much bigger assault - 20 hours - yeh - I said that 2 years ago ....

Step 3 - Don't have ABS on mine but should be a simple matter to electrically disconnect the sensors / harness - mk 1 eyeball time

Do step 12 BEFORE Step 5 - the bolts are nothing - wait till you try to separate stuff especially the back boxes - if you're dropping the subframe you may as well drop the lot together because if it isn't high enough the over axle exhaust part isn't coming out anyway - but those back boxes are heavy ....

Step 11 - pipe union wrenches - take heed !! - open ended wrenches could ruin your day you do not want to mess uyp the front to rear brake line unless you plan to replace and be warned that is a bear of a job and a darn long piece of pipe.

Step 13 - not sure why you think this is difficult - took me all of 10 minutes - doesn't need a special tool you just need to make sure the cable is completely slackened off in the car.

Step 23 - if you're going that far you need small blade type spring compressors not the hook type that can slip as there isn't much space to get the hooks in securely unless you shop around I've seen some use those intended for motorcycles but I'm not sure they're strong enough - this is one link but the compressors used make me a little uncomforable. I believe the jaguar way is to compress them in the same manner as an engine valve spring as they're actually held together with collets at the top.

Rear Springs

Step 24 - don't remove the drain until you confirm you can get the fill plug out.

Step 25 - loctite on the rotor bolts would be my recommendation

Step 33/34 - stick these in the IRS and install together if you are height constrained.

 

Hi Morgan

Wow!

Now that's what I'd call a very ambitious Time Frame!

So have Plan 'B' just in case something goes wrong

OK so before you even go to the MWR Shop Take one of the Rear Wheels off and Replace those 4 Bolts that go through the Chassis and the Matalastic Bushes with NEW BOLTS and just Nip them up tight enough for the journey to the MWR as they can be such a Pain to undo that you may have to cut some off with an Angle Grinder

Do this on a One Out One in Basis and then do the same with the other side

Also undo and replace with NEW any Exhaust Pipe Bolts that you can get to and then just nip the New ones up tight for the Journey

As this is going to save you much needed time!

As for the Wheel Speed Sensors they are bolted into the Hub with just one small bolt each Hub just undo the Bolt and Jiggle them out when you get there and then screw the Bolt back finger tight so you don't lose it/them

Have Four NEW Prop Shaft Bolts at the ready to replace the ones that you remove as the Heads on the Existing ones are likely to get damaged taking them out

As for the Hand Brake Cable maybe Controversial but I prefer doing it my way, which is to take the Hand Brake off and let the Lever Drop down (I don't mean unbolt it or anything just release it as you would if you were about to drive off)

Please/Please/Please make my Hand Brake Tool! its only a slot cut in a Piece of Flat Strip and it will save you hours of messing about, as with my Tool removing the Hand Brake Cable from the Hand Brake Mechanism just takes Minutes and No Need to Slacken the Cable! (in fact don't do it!) as if the Cable jumps out of the Handbrake Pawl then you've got a problem on your Hands!

Best to use a drive on 4 post lift to Slacken all the Bolts and then transfer to a 2 post lift, so that you can lift the Car off the Cage and then drag the Cage out from behind

If you don't remove the UJ Covers they can make re-assembly very difficult, so many of us remove them for that reason and it also makes it easier to grease everything

Removing the Springs and Dampers is easy as they each come out as one unit but don't try to disassemble them or the Tension in that Spring could very easily kill you!

P.S. Don't let the Long Exhaust Pipes from the Engine Hang down unsupported, or the weight could crack the manifold

If you get stuck on anything, you know where to find us

Good Luck

Alex (OB)

 

Morgan,

It's great that you're starting to lay out a plan. It's really important especially if you are time-bound that once you've started the job, you've got to crack it in 20 hours.

Ben and Alex have given you some great feedback there. I'd perhaps go just a bit further. On the basis that once you've started, you have to finish it in that timeframe, I would loosen almost every nut a 1/4 of a turn, and for those areas where you may be replacing them because of damage such as prop bolts,, exhaust bolts etc, I would remove and replace them all and just nip up the new ones not too tight. And if they use nyloc nuts, put the old ones on the new bolts and save the new ones for final install. Remember to scribe a line on the prop and diff flanges as you must install the prop back inexactly the same position if you don't want a prop imbalance problem.

It's also not just the radius arm bolts, it's physically separating the arms from the body which are very likely to be seized. So take them off before you raise the car, grease them and put them back before the job starts. It also enables you to see if you have any of the usual corrosion on the body mounts, which need sorting before your IRS drop.

I would try and go into the shop ready to drop the IRS KNOWING that everything (as far as is practical) is going to easily undo. It's your only chance of doing this job in the 20 hours allotted. I'd also try and get things like the lower plate removed, cleaned and painted before the job starts. Just as a personal suggestion, I'd also remove the annoying UJ dust covers off the shafts and throw them in the bin.

I'll send you a PM with the bleed instructions for the rear brakes. I'd also serious; consider fitting a set of the remote bleeders to those calipers as part of your refit.

Good luck

​​​​​​​Paul

 

Access to a hoist is a gamechanger. It needs to be the frame type lift, not a 4 post drive on.

Asssuming you have access to that, then:

Remove radius arms - they often stick, but I found an air chisel on the steel ring of the bushing (not the cup on the body!!) while prying down will often pop the arms off. You'll need to get the arms off before the car goes in the air, as the radius arm mounting point is the lift point for the car.

Raise car. Remove the wheels, remove the nuts that holds the axle shaft onto the brake disk. Remove ABS sensor wiring if present. Remove the lower shock bolt that holds the shock/spring assembly to the control arm. The hub carrier with the axle shaft should then swing down and come off the brake disk. Let the control arm hang vertically down, and it should swing down far enough to clear the brake disk.

There are holes in the brake disk that you can access the caliper bolts, undo those and rotate the caliper off the brake disk once you have loosened the brake hard lines, then remove the brake disk. Reassembly in in the reverse order, as is the other side brake disk.

Wit the hoist you can leave the cage in the car and leave the driveshaft connection undisturbed.

 

A few comments on red below on the items you list that need it:
Step 1

Check fluid in the brake reservoir. Remove spare tire from trunk. Remove carpet trim. Remove the Speed Sensor, blue plug, grey wire. Loosen 7 baffle plate holding bolts. (1 hour) As you have a coupe, I do not think you have this strengthening plate, which is on convertibles only. In fact I do not think you need to do anything in the trunk (boot) at all.

Step 2

Loosen the radius arm bolts (1 hour) Loosening them is pretty straightforward, use an impact gun if they will not move, a long lever will probably just sheer the bolt head. BUT removing the radius arm bush cup from the chassis at the big end can be a problem. Get a cold chisel and a large hammer, place the sharp edge of the chisel on the join above the cup between it and the chassis fitting, and WHACK HARD. It will come free after a few whacks.

Step 3

Disconnect the ABS sensors. Unclear how this is done. They are on the outside of the hub casting and are secured by a small bolt, you just wriggle them out.

Step 5

Loosen the exhaust bolts (1 hour). Buy some new 13mm/1/2 AF headed 3 inch long bolts. It the old ones give you trouble just cut them. New bolts make refitting far easier too. You may, repeat may, be able to remove the rear tunnel exhaust boxes and the over-axle pipes as one. If not then they have to be separated. I would loosen off the clamps between the pipes and the exhaust boxes and PB blast them, and try to loosen them from the pipes before removing the exhaust. This too will make refitting far easier.

Step 7

Lower damper mounts? Unclear on this. Once the axle is off the car you must either support it in the middle, under the diff at a working height (eg on a table or similar) or turn it upside down on the floor. If you are doing Radius arms, brake calipers, discs and shocks (ie not just the first items but shocks too) then obviously the shocks have to be removed. The top is straightforward, the shock bottoms are secured by a foot long rod that goes through the lower wishbone. It has a spacer, and can only be removed by tapping it FORWARDS (ie assuming the axle was in the car the rod has to be tapped out towards the front of the car).
Note:
I do not think that you will be able to remove the old disc or insert the new one without undoing the shocks to get clearance, as from memory, the disc fouls the inner tubular end of he lower wishbone. You might also have to disconnect the outer fulcrum at the hub. This is far easier than disconnecting the inner one by the diff: just undo the nuts and CAREFULLY drive out the shaft, this will enable you (assuming the cage is upside down) to get clearance to remove the disc and replace it. Once you have disconnected the hub fulcrum, while you are working on the discs etc, replace the shaft to ensure all the bits inside stay where they should be.

Step 10

Remove the four differential/prop shaft bolts (1 hour) You have already done this! The propshaft like the exhaust must be supported.

Step 11

Unscrew or cut through the flexible brake hose (30 minutes) When refitting, ensure you connect the new one at the cage end before refitting the cage.

Step 13

Disconnect the handbrake (2 hours). Unclear how best to do this. I won't be able to craft a special tool The handbrake is not difficult. There are two sprung arms, one for each HB caliper. First unhook the springs (long nose pliers will be best to do this and usually it is easier to disconnect the cage end of the spring). Then if you squeeze the arms together, the large nipple on the end of the inner cable can be pushed out of the arm furthest from the cable. The the cable outer just comes out of its indent in the other arm.
NOTE: when refitting, for reasons entirely unknown, the cable will not want to go bak and will seem to have reduced in length by an inch or so. This is the fix: Ask a helper to grasp the HB lever in the cabin BUTTON PRESSED IN AND HELD IN THE WHOLE TIME. The gasp the cable inner under the car with a decent pair of pliers. Ask the helper to move the lever up and down twice, leaving it down, while you pull hard on the cable inner. This will reset the cable. DO not ask me why.


Step 15

Remove fulcrum spring shafts. Which components are you referring to here?


Step 17

Remove the metal cage shroud from the differential (1 hour) see comment on 18 below

Step 18

Remove fulcrum shafts by unscrewing the nut a good bit and then tapping them flush with a hammer to the other side. (1 hour)

Get 1/2 inch copper tube (outer dimensions) for a dummy fulcrum shaft. Or solid piece of round bar Get a piece of “studding” (rod that will fit inside the copper tube)
Are you renewing the lower wishbone (control arm) inner fulcrum bearings by the differential? There is no need to do this step unless you are. I would not advise doing this unless they are definitely shot. This is entirely unnecessary otherwise and greatly complicates the job.
If you are so doing , please post again as refitting and shimming the casting is difficult.
I HIGHLY doubt that these need any work at all apart from a grease up.

All the components: https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/
If you are referring to components 9 to 15 on your diagram, you MUST post again to discuss this, before starting work.

Must I remove the universal joint covers (hose clamp and drill out pop rivets)? Yes, remove them and throw them away.

Step 23

Remove the shocks/springs. Replace all four shocks. (2 hours) Need advice here on how to remove and then reinstall the shocks from the springs. You need at least two spring compressors of this type:

Amazon

Amazon

But note that the coils are quite close together and you may have a job getting the coils compressed before the spring is compressed enough to release. If so, grind the compressor hook a bit to get more room.
Place the bottom eye of the shock in a vice, compress the spring, then the collars inside the top cup that jam the cup against the shock circular raised part on the shock tube can be prised out (might need a whack or two to loosen them) and the spring lifted out.

Flip cage upside down, reinstall fulcrum pins ONLY if you are rebuilding the inner fulcrum bearings by the diff, which should not be necessary. See comment on 18 above.

Reconnect the ABS sensor? Need help here see removal comment above.

Step 39

Reconnect the radius arms note do NOT tighten the rearmost (small end) bush bolt until the car has its weight on the wheels.

Step 40

Bleed the brakes. Need proper instructions. Paul is the Man for this procedure.