Does this look right?
#3
WatchhGuy,
The only way to know if your battery is ok is to read the voltage with a meter across the battery terminals. Check it at idle and again at a fast idle (1000rpm+) With a good alternator, it'll be 14+ volts at fast idle. Check what that equals on the gauge position and yiu have your reference point.
Cheers
Paul
The only way to know if your battery is ok is to read the voltage with a meter across the battery terminals. Check it at idle and again at a fast idle (1000rpm+) With a good alternator, it'll be 14+ volts at fast idle. Check what that equals on the gauge position and yiu have your reference point.
Cheers
Paul
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Greg in France (11-28-2022)
#4
WatchhGuy,
The only way to know if your battery is ok is to read the voltage with a meter across the battery terminals. Check it at idle and again at a fast idle (1000rpm+) With a good alternator, it'll be 14+ volts at fast idle. Check what that equals on the gauge position and yiu have your reference point.
Cheers
Paul
The only way to know if your battery is ok is to read the voltage with a meter across the battery terminals. Check it at idle and again at a fast idle (1000rpm+) With a good alternator, it'll be 14+ volts at fast idle. Check what that equals on the gauge position and yiu have your reference point.
Cheers
Paul
#5
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What Paul says. This because the barrel gauges are a bit flakey.
I'll just add that pre-1988 (roughly) the alternators specified by Jaguar were just barely up to the task. Under certain conditions.......full blowers, headlights, rear defogger all in operation....it really couldn't keep up at idle speeds and the voltage would drop quite a bit. The needle might just tickle the lower red zone on the gauge. Once off idle all was well.
Circa 1988 Jaguar began installing higher output alternators.
Cheers
DD
I'll just add that pre-1988 (roughly) the alternators specified by Jaguar were just barely up to the task. Under certain conditions.......full blowers, headlights, rear defogger all in operation....it really couldn't keep up at idle speeds and the voltage would drop quite a bit. The needle might just tickle the lower red zone on the gauge. Once off idle all was well.
Circa 1988 Jaguar began installing higher output alternators.
Cheers
DD
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Greg in France (11-30-2022)
#11
The long bolt the alternator pivots on might need to be thicker as the larger alternator's holes are larger diameter, which requires the fixing bracket fixed to the engine's holes to be enlarged and a long bolt of larger diameter sourced, and
The pulley on the larger alternator might be a multi-ribbed type, while you crank pulley will most likely be a V type. Just change the alt pulley to a V type.
I came across both these when I upgraded my alt, which was one of the best things I ever did on my car's electrics. The alterator drive has never slipped even though it has a V pulley.
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EcbJag (11-30-2022)
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An even better idea is to wire a little Bluetooth battery voltage reader to the battery. An app on your phone can then read and graph voltage, do a starter voltage drop check and check alternator efficiency. Great little bits of kit, I have them on all the cars and bikes. Paul
#15
This is the type that I have. Prices vary from £15 -£50 for the same unit so shop around. The phone app is very good.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Battery-Monitor-Campervans-Compatible-bluetooth/dp/B08VHMJYXY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=1THV1WI3797GH&keywords=bl uetooth+battery+monitor+12v&qid=1669817692&sprefix =bluetooth+batter%2Caps%2C121&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfY XRm&psc=1
Paul
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Battery-Monitor-Campervans-Compatible-bluetooth/dp/B08VHMJYXY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=1THV1WI3797GH&keywords=bl uetooth+battery+monitor+12v&qid=1669817692&sprefix =bluetooth+batter%2Caps%2C121&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfY XRm&psc=1
Paul
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