I saw this 1985 XJS for sale about a month ago. Asking price $1300.
I went to look at the car. It did not run in a couple of years.
The top surfaces of the car the paint was cracked (Thermoplastic).
I told the owner that since it did not run, I would pay $250.00 for the car.
If the looks I got would kill, I would be dead.
Last week, I got a call from the owner. He accepted my offer under the condition that I remove it immediately.
Yesterday, I went with a tow truck and purchased the car.
I wish I could tell you why I bought this car but I am a glutton for punishment.
I am still working on my 88 XJS and I believe I should complete it first.
However, Here are some pics of the car

 

One more thing:
The paint code for the car is ANC = Cirrus Grey and the Trim code is AFR.
However, the paint on the car is different and has not been repainted.
I looked everywhere for signs of a repaint and could not find any.

 

Why not at that pricem and the condition is good from here.

Being early HE, simple fix, and probably some dumb thing stopped it anyway.

Paint and codes, many ideas, but what the heck.

 

Well for the price and the fact you have space on the driveway how could you say no? Just get it running and you've added a lot of value. It's noble work to save these V12's.

 

Maaaaan,,,
you call that punishment?
You craZy...

You got room. Looks like an AWESOME way to spend some time... Beautiful car.

 

Fraid I can't disagree with previous sentiment - worth 10 times that in parts alone - not that I'm suggesting such a sacriligious end to a V12 - get er running, blow the dust out, keep er running and worry about other stuff later, concentrate on the active project otherwise. Multiple projects in parallel are bad news - ask how I know.

 

Did some work on the car today. It started to rain so I decided to post the following.
I don't want to put it in the garage since the car was sitting outside for 2 years and there may be critters hiding in there. I already got stung by a wasp. Wasp nest was under front bumper.
I fumigated the trunk and interior yesterday because I saw a small roach. Anyway here goes:

FUEL SYSTEM:
1. Drained old fuel out of tank (had about 1 gallon)via spigot on swirl (sump)tank. What is it called?
2. Removed supply pipe from swirl (sump) tank. Filter was in good condition, some light rust in tank.
3. Removed swirl tank and cleaned it out.
4. Replaced tank and installed cleaned filter and supply pipe.
5. Replaced main EFI filter and connecting fuel hoses.
6. Jumped fuel relay connector 30 and 86 or 87. No joy with fuel pump.
7. Removed fuel pump. Bench tested pump and it failed.
I have 2 new fuel pumps. I bought the cheap ones a while back to keep as spares for my other Jags.
I will install one of those tomorrow.
IGNITION SYSTEM:
I have a "NO SPARK" condition.
1. No battery voltage at coil.
2 Cleaned up wire connectors and terminals at coil. 12 volts restored at coil terminals but still NO SPARK.
3. I unbolted the Ignition amplifier, but because the wires are brittle, I just flipped it over and removed the cover exposing the GM module. If I get it running I will redo the wiring.
4. The Ignition Module number is "GM 613 4G21"
I have a couple of modules laying around in my garage. I installed one but no joy.
I have a new ECHLIN module from NAPA TP45 which I will try tomorrow.
I eliminated the condenser as recommended by Grant the GURU from "down under". It was rusted. Because of the brittle wiring, I did not want to make matters worst, so I just disconnected the condenser. Tomorrow I may be more brave and remove it entirely.
Questions from those in the know. I have been reading about some people having issues (no start) with Module D1906. Doug Dwyer say he has used it with no problems.
Which GM module is the correct one for the Jag? Fact: Not all GM modules have the same values even though they look the same.
Will my NAPA TP45 work? If not, What is the correct module part number?
I tried googling GM 613 4G21 and I can't find anything. HELP.
Well, tomorrow is another day

 

The module I bought as a spare is a Delco D1906 can't recall how I got to that number - and I can't find the dern thing - I've never tested it mind - I think you need to make sure the wiring is appropriate for the module W and G go to the trigger module in the distributor with W being +VE - I'd need to pull the diagrams out to see what colour this is on Jaguars - C goes to coil -VE and the remaining terminal to +VE - there should be a wire to the tacometer from C also.

Hope the attached will explain some of the mysteries - most of the Jaguar stable from the period used the same / similar set up

 

Good work underway already. I've used Delco D1906 successfully also. I was told to use Delco 1906 or GM 19180771.

Some project car humor:

 

Good stuff, Brotha... Amazing!
Sounds like the car is in good hands

 

That TP45 rings a very DIM bell as the Echlin number a very long time ago when Echlin was in Aust.

I used a few of them, and never had issues.

When yo mention NO spark,. I am assuming at the Primary Coil HT outlet, or are you at the Spark Plug?? I will wait before typing more on that.

When you are in CRANK mode, observe the Volts in that White wire AT the coil +ve. Should be 11+ when cranking. If its lower than that, the electrical section of the Ignition Switch is having a female moment. Very common with age now.

 

Before I post anything more, I have a question for which I probably know the answer but I will ask anyway.
Is the Ignition system separate from the the CEI System?
Is there anything in the CEI system that will affect the Ignition System?
Can I work on the Ignition System without having to worry about something in the CEI system causing the "NO SPARK" condition.
My answer is NO. Please concur.

Before I energize the fuel system, I want to resolve the "NO SPARK" issue before I start dismantling the stuff in the 'V' to replace the 12 spark plugs
I am going to look for the Ignition Module D1906 today just in case the Echlin TP45 is not the correct module.
@Grant: After verifying that I have 12v at the + and - terminals at the coil, I removed the HT lead from the coil to distributor cap and attached my spark tester between the HT terminal on the coil and the HT terminal on the distributor cap. If I have a spark I should see it on the spark tester. I have no choice because I am working alone. Normally one would have a helper to crank the engine while I check for spark.
I did not check to see if the voltage at the primary terminals of the coil remained constant or dropped during cranking. I will do that today.
When I go out to look for the module I will purchase a remote start kit so I can be at the engine bay to crank the engine and test for spark.

On the Fuel side, I noticed that the fuel hoses to the fuel rail are crusty and MUST be replaced.
Do I have to have them made or can I cut the OEM clamps and use regular EFI hose clamps? See pics
The short hoses to the fuel injectors look newer and in good condition.


Can I cut these off and replace the hose using EFI clamps?


Hose to injectors look good. Will replace if I have to
Please let me know what procedure is used to replace the hose going to the fuel rail.
Thanks.

 

To the question about the clamps... I have right FI type hose clamps where I could use and needed them. They work fine. And, that first photo with the hose running to and thru the regulator,,, then to the rail, the regulator can be eliminated and a good length of NEW hose directly from the firewall to the rail can be used. Just give yourself enough hose to route safely around hot items under the hood on the RH side, manifolds etc... Removes one less source of mishap in fuel delivery... That's what I was taught.

 

?? - the CEI system IS the ignition system so not sure I understand the thinking - just need to be methodical it isn't as complex as it seems at first glance. If the module doesn't sense the trigger pulse from the distributor you will get no spark, it is the ignition module that fires the coil(s).

Fairly simple test to identify spark no spark - Ether / starting fluid - if it sputters you have spark but fuel is a problem, if it doesn't sputter you have no spark.

On the remote start - you will need to connect this at the bulkhead connector right side post, I'd offer to take a picture but my engine and associated aren't in the car right now - you are however heading into the depths of hell if you're on the fuel pipes - leave them alone until you get spark, focus on one thing at a time, unless you see leaks for the time being leave alone.

If you start messing the fuel system about it is best to pull the whole lot off and refurbish it all - not complicated but it is time consuming, it is recommended at some point in the future to replace the injector wiring. When I did mine my fuel rail, lines and injector filter baskets were full of rust - well I think it was rust - black powdery stuff, and the injector harness insulation was rock hard and well past its scrap by date.

To the questions yes you 'can' cut them off, there are kits available to replace the hoses on the injectors and service them, as for the fuel line to the fuel rail many have removed that pressure regulator on the right bank, the pressures aren't massive but be sure to use appropriate fuel pipe clamps not run of the mill jubilee clips. We will help you out as much as poss never fear

PPS - be very careful of you try to do the starter fluid test with the air filters removed - V12's can behave like dragons and spit fire .... better just to put a dose in each side intake duct

 

The Ignition system and Fuel Injection are separate systems in the real world.

There is NO Domino event like later cars.

The ONLY thing connecting the 2 is that shielded wire to Pin #18 of the ECU, coming from the AB14 Ign Amp. That is a Tacho style pulse to the ECU to inform it there is "ignition activation", so best we fire up the Injectors.
Has NOTHING to do with lack of spark.

Just had a thought. Unplug that 2nd coil for now. I have had one only, that was shorted, and dumped the whole system. You will still get the desired spark from that single coil, and it will run with one, up to about 3000rpm.

Those fuel hoses, CAREFULLY cut open those tin swaged ends, and the crusty hose, and that will reveal barb ends for standard EFI hose and EFI spec clamps.

Only other thing is the pigtail loom from the dizzy to the amp. Broken wires INSIDE the rubber plug at the dizzy do happen, as that pigtail gets pushed and shoved a lot when changing sparkers. Probe the 2 wires at the amp end of the pigtail, and note a reading, NO reading = broken wires. I cannot remember the spec you are looking for, but any reading means the wires are intact.

That is the test procedure I use, EXCEPT, teh helper holds that lead, I crank, and the distance they jump indicates good or bad spark. I too have a remote starter kit, helpers avoid me.

 

Sanchez, I am most envious, the buy of the year!
This is a good kit for servicing the injectors, you MUST renew the injector hoses, regardless of what they look like!
https://mrinjectoruk.co.uk/Product.a...ductId=3260395
Also, carefully check the injector loom, it will very likely be cooked to a crisp. If so, carefully strip off the outer and make yourself a new one.
Also the dizzy will need lubricating so the rotor can be pushed against the spring and it snaps back, and the vacuum capsule will be cooked and need renewing.

 

Hi Sanchez

Since you are planning to replace the injector hoses

You can also eliminate the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) on 'A' Bank and go straight from the Bulk Head Fuel Outlet to the Fuel Rail Inlet, just by using a length of Top Quality (Gates Fuel Hose) and a couple of EFI Clamps

Which is a very Simple Mod that many of us have already done

 

Which is also a good time to introduce a fuel pressure test point ....

 

Thanks for the input on the fuel hoses.
Taking the advice of others, I am now focused on getting spark first.
Heading to NAPA to pick up a new module.
I am also going to pick up a new coil.
Will post results of SPARK when I post next.

 

Don’t panic. Jaguar works like any car . Spark, Gas, and timing, it will run.
Those are very easy to check. First make sure the battery is good ( probably not, so plan on replacing it) once it cranks over Squirt some starter fluid into the intake. If it tries to start. The problem is in the fuel injection system. There are several U Tube video’s explaining the system and how to test things.
If it’s ignition please ask. You will save many hundreds of dollars shopping at Napa or your local parts store.
Timing is more likely the spark plug cables are installed wrong.