Don't know why! Just could not resist
#221
Well this is just a personal opinion of course but I think you have become a little too obsessed with the WOT click - why not give it some fuel and see what happens - worst case stick your scope in line with an injector and see if it is getting pulses ... injectors don't like sitting dry for too long
#222
Ben. It is not an obsession. Everyone says that the WOT injector click must be there or else something is wrong. After about a month of checking, I finally got the injectors to click.
Problem was a cruddy TPS connector. When partially connected I would have readings but when the TPS pigtail was pushed all the way in, It lost all connectivity with the rest of the system.
The question I asked in my last post was to verify why the WOT click was necessary and the reason for getting that to function. Nothing more; nothing less.
Raining here so nothing doing until it stops.
Problem was a cruddy TPS connector. When partially connected I would have readings but when the TPS pigtail was pushed all the way in, It lost all connectivity with the rest of the system.
The question I asked in my last post was to verify why the WOT click was necessary and the reason for getting that to function. Nothing more; nothing less.
Raining here so nothing doing until it stops.
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Greg in France (11-13-2021)
#223
Hmm. For me, the click at WoT is a predictable. I like predictable - especially when things (due to my own lack of knowledge or understanding) are not so much...
If I were to theorize, the injectors open at WoT is to give all cylinders a good pump of gas in the event that one goes WoT. Car will need the fuel.
I have not been at my car for a few days so I was not able to just go on out with me DMM and take a reading. My guess would be that the injectors at the rail are all energized just waiting for the crank and engine spinning, which will be picked up by the CPS, which will then be translated into injector pulse by the the ECU to start grounding the injectors in sequence and to start firing the plugs as well...
If the fuel pump is now working and there is pressure at the rail I would dump some fuel in her (new filter and sump freshly cleaned) and try for the start. Natural start,,, on its own power. If that ain't working, it's back at it.
If I were to theorize, the injectors open at WoT is to give all cylinders a good pump of gas in the event that one goes WoT. Car will need the fuel.
I have not been at my car for a few days so I was not able to just go on out with me DMM and take a reading. My guess would be that the injectors at the rail are all energized just waiting for the crank and engine spinning, which will be picked up by the CPS, which will then be translated into injector pulse by the the ECU to start grounding the injectors in sequence and to start firing the plugs as well...
If the fuel pump is now working and there is pressure at the rail I would dump some fuel in her (new filter and sump freshly cleaned) and try for the start. Natural start,,, on its own power. If that ain't working, it's back at it.
#224
The 'click" as we call it is to verify, initially, that the TPS is signally the ECU to trigger the Injectors.
I use that feature to give a squirt of fuel into the beast for Cold and Hot starts.
Save the starter motor somewhat.
The PreHE LUVS that feature, and fires on 1st rotation of the starter motor every time, the HE is usually at the 2nd rotation. Its that quick when yje Domino's line up.
As mentioned, when its running, that feature is also part of the acceleration enrichment, just like the accelerator pump in a Carby (not SU). Other items are also in that particular chain. MAINLY the adjustment of the throttle rods WITH the spacer, so the OFF IDLE lectrickey can give the beast a squirt before the mechanicals kick in, then the Vac drop has another item richen things by about 15%, etc etc.
As Isaid before, the HE and the PreHE will, and can, be started and run with the TPS unplugged. Even revved up, but NO WAY you can drive it that way.
Brain fart today, left the TPS unplugged on the S Type V6, started fine, and idled, nothing more, I luv old age.
I use that feature to give a squirt of fuel into the beast for Cold and Hot starts.
Save the starter motor somewhat.
The PreHE LUVS that feature, and fires on 1st rotation of the starter motor every time, the HE is usually at the 2nd rotation. Its that quick when yje Domino's line up.
As mentioned, when its running, that feature is also part of the acceleration enrichment, just like the accelerator pump in a Carby (not SU). Other items are also in that particular chain. MAINLY the adjustment of the throttle rods WITH the spacer, so the OFF IDLE lectrickey can give the beast a squirt before the mechanicals kick in, then the Vac drop has another item richen things by about 15%, etc etc.
As Isaid before, the HE and the PreHE will, and can, be started and run with the TPS unplugged. Even revved up, but NO WAY you can drive it that way.
Brain fart today, left the TPS unplugged on the S Type V6, started fine, and idled, nothing more, I luv old age.
#225
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Grant Francis (11-15-2021)
#226
Thank you Grant. I kind of knew that part of the TPS function so my question regarding the WOT click was whether it was an important piece of the puzzle as to why I have no injector ground path. According to your post, the car should start without the TPS functioning but not driveable.
So BenKenobi was right in saying that I was being too "obsessed" with the TPS function while trying to troubleshoot the EFI issue I am having.
Rain played havoc here for 3 days so I was limited in what I could do. I will be back at it this afternoon. I have good fuel pressure at the injectors rail.
I will be swapping out ECUs today to see what happens. Will report progress tonight.
So BenKenobi was right in saying that I was being too "obsessed" with the TPS function while trying to troubleshoot the EFI issue I am having.
Rain played havoc here for 3 days so I was limited in what I could do. I will be back at it this afternoon. I have good fuel pressure at the injectors rail.
I will be swapping out ECUs today to see what happens. Will report progress tonight.
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Grant Francis (11-15-2021)
#227
Thank you Grant. I kind of knew that part of the TPS function so my question regarding the WOT click was whether it was an important piece of the puzzle as to why I have no injector ground path. According to your post, the car should start without the TPS functioning but not driveable.
So BenKenobi was right in saying that I was being too "obsessed" with the TPS function while trying to troubleshoot the EFI issue I am having.
Rain played havoc here for 3 days so I was limited in what I could do. I will be back at it this afternoon. I have good fuel pressure at the injectors rail.
I will be swapping out ECUs today to see what happens. Will report progress tonight.
So BenKenobi was right in saying that I was being too "obsessed" with the TPS function while trying to troubleshoot the EFI issue I am having.
Rain played havoc here for 3 days so I was limited in what I could do. I will be back at it this afternoon. I have good fuel pressure at the injectors rail.
I will be swapping out ECUs today to see what happens. Will report progress tonight.
Am I missing something? What's stopped ya from just turning it over at this point seeing if she will show signs of life? Maybe I did miss something!?
#228
I was awaiting some parts and the rain down here did not help much. On top of that, life gets in the way. For the past couple of months, I have just been doing the minimum in my backyard. Wife got on my case, so I am making her happy. Hopefully, this week I will be back at it again. Patience!!
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Greg in France (11-16-2021)
#229
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#230
Grant. AMEN to that. 45 years of marriage and 15 Jags later, if I were to tell her today that I am going to look at a Jag, all she will say is "look or buy". She only complains if I encroach on "her space" in the garage. Life is good.
New fuel pump and filter installed. Main fuel tank already cleaned. Swirl tank cleaned and filter replaced. Going to the marine store today to purchase some non-permeable fuel hoses for the trunk area. Rather than do it piecemeal I am going to replace every piece of fuel and vent hoses in the trunk area.
On another note, the seats came back from the upholsterer yesterday and it was the wrong color. He blamed his workers on the error and I told him that I was not going to pay for something I did not ask for. He was adamant that he was not going to redo the seats in the right color saying that if he did I would not get them back until Spring which was unacceptable to me. He already had them for 3 months. I had given him a 1/4 of the cost as a down payment and I told him that that was all he is going to get. He tried to take the seats back but I did not allow him to do so because I would be looking at getting them back in March or April next year.
Take a look at the difference.
This is the color we agreed on
This is what I got back
New fuel pump and filter installed. Main fuel tank already cleaned. Swirl tank cleaned and filter replaced. Going to the marine store today to purchase some non-permeable fuel hoses for the trunk area. Rather than do it piecemeal I am going to replace every piece of fuel and vent hoses in the trunk area.
On another note, the seats came back from the upholsterer yesterday and it was the wrong color. He blamed his workers on the error and I told him that I was not going to pay for something I did not ask for. He was adamant that he was not going to redo the seats in the right color saying that if he did I would not get them back until Spring which was unacceptable to me. He already had them for 3 months. I had given him a 1/4 of the cost as a down payment and I told him that that was all he is going to get. He tried to take the seats back but I did not allow him to do so because I would be looking at getting them back in March or April next year.
Take a look at the difference.
This is the color we agreed on
This is what I got back
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Grant Francis (11-18-2021)
#231
I speak that Fluently!
Garage is 900 square feet, 3 stalls. By rights I should expect to have half of it, 450 square feet.
However, I'd settle for 1/3, one full stall, enough room for Nix to fully open her doors and keep all her pieces/parts where they can be found when needed.
But, as I keep my "third" (more like 1/4 by now, just room to park her and open driver door) neat and tidy, his "STUFF" keeps "migrating" to Nix's stall because, "You have room for this over there."
(';')
Garage is 900 square feet, 3 stalls. By rights I should expect to have half of it, 450 square feet.
However, I'd settle for 1/3, one full stall, enough room for Nix to fully open her doors and keep all her pieces/parts where they can be found when needed.
But, as I keep my "third" (more like 1/4 by now, just room to park her and open driver door) neat and tidy, his "STUFF" keeps "migrating" to Nix's stall because, "You have room for this over there."
(';')
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Grant Francis (11-18-2021)
#233
Good morning to all. SUCCESS AT LAST:
Thank you all for the support and advice you have given me to get the car running.
The car finally started yesterday. A friend of mine came over yesterday with his '86 XJS to give me a hand doing some diagnostics.
Having replaced and verified that everything in the engine bay was OK, I decided to start swapping out the ECUs that I had.
Installed the original 6cu ECU, No joy.
Installed the 2 loaner 16cu ECUs DAC 4118 and DAC 4585, still no joy.
Given that his car was working, we decided to try his 16 cu ECU DAC 6337. The car immediately started and was billowing smoke. All of the smoke was because of the Marvel Mystery oil I had used way back when I did the compression test.
After about 5 minutes the smoking stopped and we left the car idling for about 1/2 hour trying to get the idle down from 900 RPM I failed at that. I do have a dead AUX Air Valve and I believe I have a few vacuum hoses incorrectly routed.
I drove the car around my block a few times and everything except the idle speed is good. No overheating, no oil leaks and the engine is running very smoothly.
Now, I am in the market for an ECU. I am not going to buy a used one unless it can be verified that it is off a running car.
In the meantime I will get hold of Roger Bywater (AJ6 Engineering) to see what he can do for me. If I can find a refurbished one from our Jaguar parts suppliers, I will go that route.
I want to get an ECU ASAP because I don't want to leave the car not running for another year while I refurbish the front and rear suspension, brakes, body work, interior etc. etc.
I still have work to do on my 88 H&E.
THANK YOU ALL.
Thank you all for the support and advice you have given me to get the car running.
The car finally started yesterday. A friend of mine came over yesterday with his '86 XJS to give me a hand doing some diagnostics.
Having replaced and verified that everything in the engine bay was OK, I decided to start swapping out the ECUs that I had.
Installed the original 6cu ECU, No joy.
Installed the 2 loaner 16cu ECUs DAC 4118 and DAC 4585, still no joy.
Given that his car was working, we decided to try his 16 cu ECU DAC 6337. The car immediately started and was billowing smoke. All of the smoke was because of the Marvel Mystery oil I had used way back when I did the compression test.
After about 5 minutes the smoking stopped and we left the car idling for about 1/2 hour trying to get the idle down from 900 RPM I failed at that. I do have a dead AUX Air Valve and I believe I have a few vacuum hoses incorrectly routed.
I drove the car around my block a few times and everything except the idle speed is good. No overheating, no oil leaks and the engine is running very smoothly.
Now, I am in the market for an ECU. I am not going to buy a used one unless it can be verified that it is off a running car.
In the meantime I will get hold of Roger Bywater (AJ6 Engineering) to see what he can do for me. If I can find a refurbished one from our Jaguar parts suppliers, I will go that route.
I want to get an ECU ASAP because I don't want to leave the car not running for another year while I refurbish the front and rear suspension, brakes, body work, interior etc. etc.
I still have work to do on my 88 H&E.
THANK YOU ALL.
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#234
BRILLIANT NEWS. Sourcing a working 16CU will be easy enough in the USA. And I totally agree about keeping it running now it IS running. I think you have cats? If so a UK ECU will not be any use. You need a Lucas plus Cats one, not a Marelli one. Roger can of course make you one, but he is pretty busy, and you have to send him your old one, no doubt he could fix one of your duff ones. If you do go to him; buy the entire large throttle and super enhanced ECU package at the same time and the car turns into a rocketship!
But, Sanchez, REALLY WELL DONE. A real triumph for persistence. I am impressed. And meanwhile you can follow Grant's writeup and fix the AAV thus sorting the idle.
But, Sanchez, REALLY WELL DONE. A real triumph for persistence. I am impressed. And meanwhile you can follow Grant's writeup and fix the AAV thus sorting the idle.
Last edited by Greg in France; 11-18-2021 at 08:47 AM.
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#235
Greg. Thank you. With the exception of the 6cu ECU, the 2 16cu ECUs are loaners so I have to mail those back to their respective owners. Folks are asking a lot of money for their used ECUs with no guarantee that they will work. I am hoping that one of the Jaguar suppliers here can get me a a good (refurbished) one. I will be contacting them today.
As far as the AAV goes, I did the Grant rebuild but the Thermal bulb is non functional. I will try to locate a rebuilt or a good used one. I want it to function as it should.
I AM A VERY HAPPY CAMPER.
As far as the AAV goes, I did the Grant rebuild but the Thermal bulb is non functional. I will try to locate a rebuilt or a good used one. I want it to function as it should.
I AM A VERY HAPPY CAMPER.
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#236
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Greg in France (11-18-2021)
#237
Shweeeeeet!
I want to know more about that enhanced ECU!
Can I afford it? Will my old tranny handle it?
That sort of thing...
The AAV is a super easy job. I followed grants advise as well. Having gotten my hands on a spare recently, I actually got a sense of how much full time pressure (the upper spring tension) is on that top hat when hot. So I drilled a super small diameter hole in the casing and the top hat and ran a small securing set screw as well as the JB Weld, to secure the top to the casing. Worked a charm.
Anywho - supppper well done and I am grateful for being able to read along with all of y'all's expertise as this was worked through. I learned a lot.
All's well that ends well!
I want to know more about that enhanced ECU!
Can I afford it? Will my old tranny handle it?
That sort of thing...
The AAV is a super easy job. I followed grants advise as well. Having gotten my hands on a spare recently, I actually got a sense of how much full time pressure (the upper spring tension) is on that top hat when hot. So I drilled a super small diameter hole in the casing and the top hat and ran a small securing set screw as well as the JB Weld, to secure the top to the casing. Worked a charm.
Anywho - supppper well done and I am grateful for being able to read along with all of y'all's expertise as this was worked through. I learned a lot.
All's well that ends well!
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#238
Jay. After I speak to Roger Bywater, I will know more about the "Enhanced ECU" In the meantime I am looking for a refurbished ECU to keep the car running. If I go with the enhanced ECU and larger throttle bodies, it will be months and months before I get it. Will keep everyone in the loop.
The following 2 users liked this post by sanchez:
Grant Francis (11-18-2021),
Greg in France (11-19-2021)
#239
Jay. After I speak to Roger Bywater, I will know more about the "Enhanced ECU" In the meantime I am looking for a refurbished ECU to keep the car running. If I go with the enhanced ECU and larger throttle bodies, it will be months and months before I get it. Will keep everyone in the loop.
Thanks Man