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UPDATE:
I called NAPA and the ECHLIN TP45 is the interchange number for D1906.
I took Grant's advice and disconnected the secondary coil and the resistance reading on the Primary coil was within specs(1.2 ohms)
Looking for the TP45, I found my spark tester so I did not have to buy one.
I bravely disconnected the brittle wires at the Ignition Amplifier, removed it from the engine bay to my workbench so I could properly clean all the terminals.
(All those wires will be changed out after I get the car running).
I installed the new module, reinstalled it in the engine bay, carefully reconnected the wires, cranked the engine and no joy.
Knowing that I had connected all of the wires in their proper places, I decided to check the pigtail from the distributor to the module. (Grant's Advice)
I removed the Cruise Control bellows and I saw the connector from the distributor to the module.
I disconnected it and it was extremely corroded, gave it a good clean and reconnected it.
I cranked the engine and I now have spark. How good of a spark? I could not tell in the daylight but it did give me a hell of a jolt because i was leaning through the open door to crank the engine and became part of the ground circuit.
Next step is to see if the spark is getting to the spark plugs I can access with the bellows off.
Once I verify that I will remove the stuff from the V and replace the Distributor Cap, Rotor and Spark plugs.
HAPPY DAYS ahead, I hope.
Thank you all for giving me the advice to work through this issue For all of you
UPDATE:
I called NAPA and the ECHLIN TP45 is the interchange number for D1906.
I took Grant's advice and disconnected the secondary coil and the resistance reading on the Primary coil was within specs(1.2 ohms)
Looking for the TP45, I found my spark tester so I did not have to buy one.
I bravely disconnected the brittle wires at the Ignition Amplifier, removed it from the engine bay to my workbench so I could properly clean all the terminals.
(All those wires will be changed out after I get the car running).
I installed the new module, reinstalled it in the engine bay, carefully reconnected the wires, cranked the engine and no joy.
Knowing that I had connected all of the wires in their proper places, I decided to check the pigtail from the distributor to the module. (Grant's Advice)
I removed the Cruise Control bellows and I saw the connector from the distributor to the module.
I disconnected it and it was extremely corroded, gave it a good clean and reconnected it.
I cranked the engine and I now have spark. How good of a spark? I could not tell in the daylight but it did give me a hell of a jolt because i was leaning through the open door to crank the engine and became part of the ground circuit.
Next step is to see if the spark is getting to the spark plugs I can access with the bellows off.
Once I verify that I will remove the stuff from the V and replace the Distributor Cap, Rotor and Spark plugs.
HAPPY DAYS ahead, I hope.
Thank you all for giving me the advice to work through this issue For all of you
Awesome!
Ok. So this is just me and I ain't doing this to brag or boast. In my first days of owning my car (it had sat for 12yrs as I was told) I did THIS... It was not nearly as hard as it I thought it was,,, I really had never worked on anything like it,,, and I have ZERO regrets... Note forced air tubing completely removed.
All was fine with the guidance from the folks here.
From the looks of the few photos you posted it is pretty crusty under there. And you have time and a place to work. If you can get it to run, even just for 5-10min,,, I would suggest shutting her down and refreshing a good amount of the upper part (the top side) of the VEEEE... Might save some pain down the line. Jus say'n...
@ Jay: I hear you loud and clear. I will be refurbishing the top side of the motor once I get it running. I love my engine bays clean
FYI: I enjoy reading your posts and how you don't pretend to know it all.
As an ex New Yorker, I feel your pain of having to work on the streets. Alternate side parking and so on.
When I lived in Richmond Hill, Queens, I had my share of street side work.
I taught at Jamaica High School and part time (nights) at Apex Tech in Manhattan.
Once I got situated, I told my wife that the next rental must have a driveway or a garage. I lived in Queens for 26 years until I bought a house out in the boonies in Long Island. Ranch with 2 acres of property where I could do whatever I please in comfort. I still own that property. Home prices are going up so I may pull the trigger and sell. Developers are offering me good $$$.but I am playing the game with them. "BIG UP QUEENS" Here is my other XJS and my XJ40 in the back LUMPED Lumped my daily driver XJ6
@ Jay: I hear you loud and clear. I will be refurbishing the top side of the motor once I get it running. I love my engine bays clean
FYI: I enjoy reading your posts and how you don't pretend to know it all.
As an ex New Yorker, I feel your pain of having to work on the streets. Alternate side parking and so on.
When I lived in Richmond Hill, Queens, I had my share of street side work.
I taught at Jamaica High School and part time (nights) at Apex Tech in Manhattan.
Once I got situated, I told my wife that the next rental must have a driveway or a garage. I lived in Queens for 26 years until I bought a house out in the boonies in Long Island. Ranch with 2 acres of property where I could do whatever I please in comfort. I still own that property. Home prices are going up so I may pull the trigger and sell. Developers are offering me good $$$.but I am playing the game with them. "BIG UP QUEENS" Here is my other XJS and my XJ40 in the back LUMPED Lumped my daily driver XJ6
Haha,,, damn Bro.
Look at them thangs...
Alrighty then
I'll shut up now, lol
I pulled the trigger on some items for the V12 engine that was advertised on Florida Facebook Marketplace for months now.
Since I did not have a V12, I was not interested but now.............
See pics below.
1.Cold air intake minus the air filters with Jaguar logos
2. Cold air intake elbows
3. Aluminum vertical overflow coolant tank
4. Parts of cooling system piping
5. EFI harness
6, AC low side hose
coolant piping aluminum Cold air intake pipes with elbows. In the middle is the vertical overflow tank(Aluminum) Etched Jaguar logo on air intake pipes. They need polishing intake pipe with Jag logo EFI harness to rebuild elbows for cold air intake
That's great color combination. Your experience just reinforces the idea that you make your money up front, in a deal. ( if there will be any money to be made!) It never hurts to make the low offer, lot's of times the seller wants to get rid of the car more than they need the money. Good luck with the project.
While searching for info on the V12, I read somewhere in the forums that there is a coil that can be used to eliminate the secondary coil. I can't remember whether it was here or on Jag-lovers.
Does anyone know the part number for the single coil?
Should I just look for a coil that has a resistance value of 0.6 ohms?
Should I just leave the dual coils in place?
Today I go shopping for Spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor.
I use FuelMiser CC215 coil, and is known as a Universal Electronic Ignition Coil.
0.85 Ohms, and I have had NO issues at all. Many cars, and many years ago.
IF the 2 coils are withing 1.2 Ohms, and the same when you heat them with Mums hairdryer, dont re-invent the wheel.
Jaguar introduced a Ducelliar coil for that task, but Mega $$ back when I needed the conversion.
Any Electronic Spec coil, NO MORE than 0.90 Ohms will be OK. Plenty out there these days, Nissan, Toyota, Mazda etc etc all used similar in the 90's onward, prior to Coil Over.
@ Grant: Your recommendation is highly valued. If both coils give the correct resistance readings, I will just let them be.
@ Thorsen: "Green with envy"? I am. I wish I could accomplish half of what you did to your car. However, I will try to get pretty close lol.
Not to be a PITA and being very, very new to the V12, I have questions for those who have recently rebuilt their EFI system.
Apart from the injector harness rebuild, which kit did you all purchase to replace the injector hoses and from which vendor?
My plan is to replace all fuel and vacuum hoses in the engine bay.
Is there a source for a kit that includes all the various sizes of vacuum hoses?
If not, rather than having to make many trips to the parts store, does anyone who has done the vacuum hoses tell me what are the various sizes of vacuum hoses I would need and how many feet of each size would be required?
Thanks in advance.
Sanchez
Buy a length of top quality 4mm ID silicone vacuum hose and use it for all of them, not forgetting the gearbox modulator to A bank one. eg https://www.viperperformance.co.uk/s...g5m-coils.html
This is by far the best solution and they do not deteriorate.
Be aware there is a vacuum hose that runs from the engine bay to the ECU in the trunk - length of the car.
Correct, Ben; but the main under-car part is a steel tube, with just decent fuel pipe being needed to connect it at the engine balance pipe end, and I forget what diameter at the ECU end.
Well ya live n learn - you would think I'd know that the time I've spent under there the last month or so ... need to do mine coz I'm not in a rush to remove transmission etc once it goes back so that's good to know - while I'm in there itis ...
A thank you to all you who provided the info I needed pertaining to the fuel system and vacuum hoses.
@ Thorsen: one more for you. 1988 XJS H&E version
I am working on both this and the recently acquired XJS simultaneously.
The red one runs. Doing some body work (dings and stone chips)to prepare for paint. Don't let the picture fool you.
The Maroon 1964 in the background is waiting for an engine rebuild. Engine is at the machine shop. It belongs to a forum member. I am just helping him out.
This is on the back burner until I get the off white XJS running. Hopefully, in 2 weeks. Have to order parts.
Update:
Today I ordered the EFI repair kit from a site on EBAY. Contains seals, injector filters, hoses, pintle caps and FI clamps.
Del City: Injector Solenoid plugs #73522
Brussellex: 16 gauge High temp wires kit comes with 10 different colors, each roll 25 feet.
Still to order pending advice from forum members: Distributor Cap and Rotor; Prices range from $25 to $75. (Good things not cheap: Cheap things not good) Which is the recommended Cap and Rotor? Which is the recommended Spark Plug?
Possibly outdate info, coz it was years ago, and not needed since.
Cap and Rotor = EP64 and EP65 Echlin, Made In USA, only on all my V12's. No longer in OZ, so you being where you are, might be better off.
Spark Plugs = BPR6EF NGK, again, thats all the HE's ever saw.
MUST be gapped to 0.025", and near enough is not good enough.
Anti Seize on the threads, just a SMEAR, and JUST OVER finger tight. Rock Ape tighten them, and they will snap off when next you need to remove them, and that will be the highlight of your day.
You already know this I am sure:
Air blast each spark plug valley, look with a STRONG light, for any odd "something" that is sitting waiting, to drop inside the cylinder. Be a tad **** with this please. Do ONE sparker at a time, and blow each valley each time, as anything that drops inside will require another lumping.
The stuff I found in those valleys amazed even me.
Close mate here did NOT pay attention. New fuel hoses and sparkers, fired it up, KNOCK,KNOCK, KNOCK, no ones home.
He mentioned a "missing" Injector clamp washer. FOUND IT was my response.
Engine out, and strip and rering etc etc was required. He was lucky, the heads came off with little fuss.
Thank you Grant. That advice is well taken. Florida is very sandy so even on my newer cars, whenever I open the bonnet I blow out the engine bay.
For the Jaguar the Death Valley will get special attention.
I am removing everything from the VEE to clean. Spark Plugs will be the last things I will remove.
I want to have all my parts on hand before I start tearing into things.
Today, I worked on the red H&E. Did some body work on it.
Tomorrow I work on the V12.
09-09-2021, 02:19 PM
