@Greg: Thoroughness is the only way to do this car as there was no documentation for any work done on the car. The only give away that some work was done on the car were the worm clamps on the fuel hoses.
The one good thing is that very few items were ever replaced on the car. Lots of original hose clamps, every nut and bolt had its original washers. Every single hose that I touched was dry rotted. Even though parts are bad, it is nice when you get a car that was hardly tampered with.
@Grant: Your advice is always 'spot on'. No argument from me.
Today I removed the Supplemental Air system and Intake manifolds to access the valve covers for cleanup.
To block the holes I did this.(see photo) Tomorrow, I will grind it flat and apply a cap of lead solder. I have done the same on GM vehicles in the past with no problems.
With the intake off, I can finish cleaning up the engine bay and check for the rust/rot BenKenobi and Greg posted about. I do see some rust but no rot so far.

I cut the pipes flush, threaded a brass screw in the pipe and used a brazing torch and lead solder to seal it.
The pipe extension will receive an O-ring.

 

For those of you who are interested, here are the results of fuel injector test.
The service provider recommended that 3 of the injectors be replaced because rust had penetrated deep between the solenoid and the plastic electrical connector to the point where the plastic is warped. He claims that there is a seal between the two and it may leak in the future because rust grows. It cannot be separated. He said they work perfectly at this time but he does not recommend using them.

Test pressure at 3 Bar. Test flows shown have been correlated to show a 60 second flow rate, 100% duty cycle...full open.

As received After cleaning

1) 192 cc 206 cc
2) 141 206
3) 76 206
4) 170 204
5) 118 207
6) 90 207
7) 107 206
8) 106 209
9) 155 208
10) 145 209
11) 44 208
12) 156 206

Average 125 cc 206.8 cc
High 192 209
Low 44 204
Range 148 5
Deviation 40.8 % 1.4 %

 

Some of those show a massive improvement after cleaning!
What are you going to do about the 3 questionable ones?

 

@ Thorsen: I am going to replace them. The vendor has some, so he will supply me with the 3 I need and also return the 3 he says are questionable. I should have them back sometime next week. So much for a 2 day turnaround.
Question for all.
Since I have the intake manifolds off the car I am going to clean both throttle bodies before I install them back on the car.
I want to check and adjust the throttle valves since it is so much easier with them off the car.
Is the adjustment for the throttle valve .002? ( I think I read that somewhere on the forum) If not what is the measurement when the throttle valves are fully closed?
Thanks.

 

Yes, 002. But when reassembling the throttle rods and linkages, you need just a slight bit of free play in the system. Just enough free play to hear a nice "click" when you turn the capstan with your hand, before the system moves. Grant has a system using a 2mm spacer, he will swing by soon and remind us how it is done.

 

Thanks Greg, 0.002" is the setting, Some have used 0.003".

This explains it all.

Any queries, ask away.I 'm the guy with the Beer in the corner.

 

Thank you for the info.
I did notice when I removed the rods, the left hand rod was shorter than the right hand rod.
Yesterday, I spent hours and many utility blades to remove the old intake manifold gasket.
It must have been the original gaskets as it was cooked on there. Since there was not a lot of room to work the blade, I eventually decided to remove the manifold studs so I could get the old gasket off without damaging the surface. When I was finally done, I put a light coat of silicone on the stud threads and put them back on.
The holes for the Supplemental Air System were totally blocked with carbon. Since I eliminated the system, should I clean out the holes or leave them blocked?
I will be doing other things while I wait for a response. I believe those holes go into the combustion chamber.
Now that the V area is totally clean, I am finally going to remove and replace the spark plugs. I am about a week away from starting the car so I will do a compression test, put some Marvel Mystery oil into the cylinders to help loosen up any carbon build up in the combustion chamber. The compression test will tell me what to do next.
I did not mention this before but when I disconnected the CTS the terminals were disintegrated. One came out in the connector and the other stayed in the CTS.
I have a new connector so I have to search for the CTS.
I came up with the following part numbers.
CTS: EAC3927; TX107; DBC3728; NAPA TS5597.
Air Temp Sensor: NAPA TS5520; Standard TX18.
Which ones are recommended?

 

Another task well done.

Those holes being blocked, leave them alone. They go into the exhaust ports, so NO pressure of any sort in them. I would smear as much Hi Temp RTV into the top as you can, and done t worry if that is next to nothing, just to seal off whatever is likely to leak exhaust gas and noise, which is near on zero chance in my opinion.

The temp sensor I use is a Bosch unit, 0 280 130 026. NOT unique to Jag, GM etc all used this sensor. The specs re pretty much the same across the board.

I have an AJ16 (X300) CTS in my X Type. Same thing, the sensor came out of the housing with the plug, oops. Same threads, and the Ohms are close enough to call it done, and the car is happy, good enough for me.

While you are waiting, look at the bracket at the rear of each Inlet Manifold. It is the rear support for the throttle horizontal shaft, and there is a bush in each bracket to act as a pivot bearing. They fall out, go missing, wear out even, and adjusting and setting the throttle rods with worn etc of these is a total waste of time. C34388 is the Part Number.

 

@ Grant: Thank you for providing the info on adjusting the throttle valves, rods and the shaft bushing. I will be checking for that bushing in the rear bracket as soon as I start to do some work on the car.
Trying to locate the CTS and ATS. NAPA says Tuesday. That's good as I have lots of other things to do on the engine.
Fuel Injectors should be back to me on Monday or Tuesday so everything is falling into place.

 

BAD NEWS:
I did a compression test 2 days ago, yesterday and again this morning.
Here are the current readings:

A1 Dry 130 Wet 210
A2 Dry 190 Wet 210
A3 Dry 160 Wet 210
A4 Dry 110 Wet 210
A5 Dry 170 Wet 240
A6 Dry 165 Wet 240

B1 Dry 155 Wet 210
B2 Dry 160 Wet 210
B3 Dry 125 Wet 210
B4 Dry 170 Wet 190
B5 Dry 130 Wet 210
B6 Dry 105 Wet 210
I GUESS WORN RINGS

Prior to the above readings 2 days ago, I did a compression test and a few of the cylinders were under 100 and the others around the 125 range.
I put some Marvel Mystery Oil turned the engine over and let it sit overnight and did the test again.
Given that I had put more MMO than I should have, I had readings in the 300 range on all cylinders.
Seeing that and knowing that I had put extra MMO in the cylinders, I hooked up a 3/8 transparent hose to my shopvac and sucked out the MMO that was in the cylinders.
The red MMO came out black as tar so I know that I have a lot of carbon buildup in the cylinders. I plan to do a basic leak down test later today
Given what my dry test readings (above) this morning, do you all think I have enough compression to attempt to start the car and hopefully if it does start it will clear up some of the carbon buildup and then I will do the compression test all over again and see if it changes.
Should I put some more MMO and leave it for a few more days, given that the compression did increase after the first go around.
The car has 120,771 miles on the Odometer and I do not think a lot of maintenance was done on the car. It did have clean oil and a new oil filter so at least I know the PO changed the oil.
My plan is (based on your advice) attempt to start the car and go from there.
I do not want to go tearing into the engine just yet. that will only happen if there is no other alternative
What say you all?

 

@sanchez - I'm going to replay the same information you told me earlier this year when I had a very similar issue. You were spot-on and it saved me from tearing down the engine or having to go to the lump route. That was 5 months ago and my engine runs strong now.

EDIT - just wanted to add that I run MMO in the crankcase and add it to the tank every fill-up.

"When you added oil to Cylinders 5B and 6B the PSI numbers increased. That pretty much eliminates the valves as the issue but it's a Jag. You never know."

"My 2 cents:
200 psi per cylinder on an engine that has been sitting for a while is not too bad.
I would suggest putting a couple ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil or even WD40 into all of the cylinders and let it soak for a couple of days.
Focus more on on 5B and 6B
Then turn the engine slowly by hand clockwise. It is pretty tight trying to get to the crankshaft bolt but is doable (since you are going really deep into this project, pull the radiator if need be)
Do not turn the engine counter clockwise. you will damage the timing chain tensioners if you do.
The Marvel Mystery Oil or WD 40 will eventually cause the rings on 5B and 6B to free up."

 

Depends on your region but I suspect you are not the high compression end as we are in Europe the HE high compression requires 200 to 240psi on cranking. Your numbers wet are plenty high enough for the lower compression engines which state 165psi low compression (theres one lower at 135psi but I think that's for cars with catalytics - not sure), dry you aren't looking so good and you need to be within 10psi per cylinder - but don't judge a sleepy engine those rings could take quite a bit to wake them up. I think you're good to go anyhow. It may be a tad rough but you need to wake it up and then measure again after you've had it hot - so get cooling sorted. Leave some oil in the cylinders whilst doing that.

Don't forget valves can get sticky too although wet pressures would seem to show you don't to have that problem, when waking a car from a long slumber it doesn't hurt to feed it some 2 stroke type mix - or just spray some 2 stroke oil into the valve chambers. Don't be quick to judge an engine that's been standing a long time on compression alone - it will smoke like crazy for a while too - I'd say you'd need to go through a tank of fuel before testing again and I don't mean at tickover speeds - vibration and heat play a role.

 

Just start the engine when ready. Those compression numbers are fine. A bit of MMO in the bores and turning the engine by hand cannot harm; but not necessary.
I started an engine from my parts car that had stood for 20 years, no bother at all; with nothing but new plugs, dizzy cap and nothing else done at all.

 

@ Thorsen: After I posted the above I decided since the compression got better from the first MMO treatment, that was positive so I put some more MMO rotated the engine and plan to let it sit for a couple of days while I am waiting for my injectors and other parts to arrive. I remember telling you to try the MMO and you were doubtful at first. I on the other hand have used it successfully in the past and I have no doubt it will work again this time.

@BenKenobi: I haven't got a clue to what the compression ratio should be on this engine. I do know that the car has Catalytic Converters (which will be removed eventually).
Once I get the engine fired up no matter how crappy it may run at first, I plan to overhaul the cooling system. I can't drive the car because it is not registered at the DMV as yet.

@ Greg: I figured the engine may run given that the ignition parts are all being replaced and the fuel system overhauled as well. My refurbished injectors should be here in the next couple of days. I put some more MMO in the cylinders this morning. Today, I am sorting the fuel lines from the rear to the front. New fuel pump/filter and all hoses in the trunk. I am also installing a pre-pump filter. All the fuel hoses up front are being replaced as well.
I have remade the EFI harness and I am waiting for a new 8 wire connector to complete it.
Thank you all for your input. I greatly appreciate it.

 

Do you have a part# for the 8 wire connector? I had to re-use mine because I could not find the correct substitute but would prefer to do it the right way.

 

There isn't one, I'm pretty sure the old ones were bonded at manufacture - I sure never found a way to dismantle my old ones.

I think you are better off using more modern connectors and replacing both ends. I replaced with two 4 pin Superseal Connectors and adjusted the wiring to suit - one plug is bank A + and - the other is bank B - the top and bottom row on the original plug / socket aren't very logical.

 

I purchased 2 4 pin connectors from DEL CITY which I will make up. My plan is to do it the way BebKenobi did his. The connectors come with both male and female parts. I will post numbers when I get home. I am on my way to NC to take care of some business so I will be incommunicado for the next 5 days or so. I will be checking in on the forum via my cell phone while I am away.

 

Not quite, it needs to be able to move air in and out also.
Spark, gas and timing won't help if the exhaust is blocked for example.

 

1985 XJS V12
I have everything pretty much buttoned up in the engine compartment with the exception of a few vacuum hoses which I am trying to resolve and a cracked AAV hose which I ordered.
As of now,
IGNITION SYSTEM:
I have serviced the distributor the centrifugal weights were stuck.
Installed new cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires.
I have SPARK.
EFI SYSTEM:
Had all injectors serviced and flow tested.
All of the fuel hoses in the engine bay have been renewed.
I bypassed the A bank FPR.
Made a new harness with new connectors for the Injectors. (I have it temporarily zip tied to the fuel rail)
Still waiting for aftermarket plugs to replace the 8 pin connector.
I temporarily connected the old 8 pin connector
I have 12v on both sides of the injector connectors.
However, with the "KEY ON" when I snap the throttle wide open, I do not hear the injectors click. Am I supposed to hear them click?
I will check tomorrow with a Noid Light to see whether the injector harness is pulsing on each connector.
In the meantime, Is there any other reason why the injectors would not click when I snap the throttle open?
Something else: On my TPS, I have 4.8 v on the GREEN wire and varying voltage on the RED wire. The YELLOW wire is 0v.
Some of the posts say that the fixed and varying voltage should be on the RED and YELLOW wires respectively.

Engine almost completed

 

If the injectors are not pulsing, the first thing to check is the white wire from the amplifier into the loom. It may have cracked or cooked insulation or a poor connector. If so, open up the loom and replace the wire back to where it is no longer cooked, and fit a new suitable connector.
In your position, if you have not done so, I would replace the coils.
It looks a lovely job, Sanchez, congratulations.