Thanks Greg.
After posting, I was going through Kirby Palm's book and past posts on this issue. They all mention checking that white wire. I will be doing so this morning.
I did notice that about 3 inches from the plug, that small white wire was very brittle and the insulation was cracked. Now I know what that wire is for.
Do I have to use a shielded wire to effect the repair? Some posts say to use regular wire to repair it. Does the wire gauge size matter?
About the coils, I have to do some research to find out which coil I can use to replace the dual coils with a single coil and go that route.
Once I get the injector pulse issue resolved, I will complete the fuel supply system.
All fuel hoses up front have been replaced. All that is left to do are the ones in the trunk and install the new fuel pump. I still have the fuel pump relay disconnected which was done when I first got the car and was diagnosing the fuel supply issues. I don't think that the fuel pump relay being disconnected have anything to do with the injector pulse or am I wrong in that assertion?

 

Sanchez
You should find that the white wire has a shield round it, just roll back the shield until you hit good flexible wire, and splice from there. If yo have to, carefully cut the shield with scissors along its length if it cannot be rolled back. You may, repeat may, find the shield is soldered to an earth wire; if do, do not disconnect the earth from the shield.
I have re-sited my amp out front in cool air, and I did not use shielded wire to connect it back to the OEM loom, so in my view probably not really necessary.

 

Damn good job indeed.

Fuel relay has zero to do with Injector Pulse.

Standard wire, same as Greg for me also.

Red and Yellow is the split voltage for the TPS.

This Pin Out might help you trace the issue there, and YES, Ign ON and opening the throttle should trigger the Injectors.

 

I just did a repair to the braided wire. The braid was grounding to the inner small wire. As recommended, I peeled back the insulation folded the braid back and soldered a new piece of wire that goes to the amplifier. The braid is now isolated from the center wire.
Prior to that, I used my DVOM and the braid had continuity to ground. I tested this going from the braid to a good ground in the engine compartment.
I reconnected the plug to the amplifier but the injectors are still not clicking.
Should there be battery voltage on this wire? I am seeing 12 v on the inner wire that I repaired.

 

OOPS.

Never tested one for volts.. I doubt it somehow. That wire is a Tacho Style pulse TO the ECU pin 18.

BUT

If its connected at the Amp, and the Ign is ON, maybe? Voltage from teh Module is a possibility.

Not connected at the Amp, and Volts in the open terminal, no I would think.

 

I just finished testing the small white wire for continuity to pin 18 and it's good.
Voltage is only present when it is connected to the amp.
One thing I did not check after the wire repair was whether there was a short to ground from the white wire to the braid. I will do so shortly.
Possibility of a faulty module? I am going to put the original one back on to see.
What am I missing here?
Does the resistor pack have anything to do with this?
Need some coffee.

 

The resistor pack can prevent the injectors firing if the connector is poor. Cleaning the pins and socket connector is a very important thing to do.

A fault module is always a possibility. If you have a spare try it. Personally, after much grief with trying aftermarket ones, I bought a new amp from David manners and had no more grief!

 

I have 2 spare modules and 1 spare resistor pack.
Swapped out the modules and all I get is the spark for the ignition.
Swapped out the resistor pack and still no injector function.
Back to the braided wire, I said in my last post that I am seeing battery voltage at that wire with the ignition 'ON'
So, if that wire is supposed to have 12 v that goes back to Pin 18 at the ECU( does anyone know for sure?), which pins at the ECU are used to create the ground path for the injectors.
Since I do not know when was the last time this car ran. Is it possible that I have a bad ECU.
If I have to purchase an ECU which one should I get? The one on the car is DAC 3586. I read that there is an upgraded ECU that can be used or is my number the upgraded one.

 

Steady, Sanchez, leave the ECU out of it for now, it is the least likely cause. We will have to wait for Grant about your white wire query.
Meanwhile, is the twin wire coming up from the bottom of the dizzy (the one connevtd to the pickup that gets its signal from the starwheel) all good and checked? This is what gives the signal to the amp unit to trigger the coil and send the signal to the ECU that the engine is turning.

 

@ Greg: Yes those two wires are good. I had to take apart the distributor to fix the centrifugal weights which were stuck. I did it on the car without removing the distributor
In one of my posts, prior to dismantling the V I mentioned that the 2 wire connector caused the car to have no spark. I cleaned off the corrosion and the spark was restored.
It is my belief that without the twin wire doing its job, I would have no spark. So, if it is triggering the coil I guess the signal to the ECU is present. Am I wrong with that assumption?

 

This is the ECU Part Number chart I gathered years ago.

Enjoy.

Greg is correct, ECU is the least of the issues, but not unheard of. Your 3586 is a 6CU, and they had issues, mainly with the Fuel Pump Timer Circuit.

When you activate the throttle with Ign ON, to attempt to get the Injector Click, that is purely the TPS signalling the ECU, and has nothing to do with the shielded wire, or the Ign Amp.

The Resistor Pack, YES.

Is the TPS OK, that is the prime item outside the Resistor Pack for this Click test.

I will return later, things to do now.

Forgot the attachment, Duh.

 

If you have spark, that is great! Just fuel to go. The signal to the coil comes from one of the other wires exiting from the amp, not from the ECU. The amp acts like old fashioned points did, cutting the current to the coil primary and thus creating a HT spark via the secondary coil.
We keep following Grant on this matter!
However I did not know that you had a 6 CU version of the ECU in the car. These are more likely to fail than the later, digital 16 CU; but the later ECU is a straight swap, if you need one, that is what you should get.

 

OK,

Lunch was awesome. Bugga the nonsense restrictions.

I forgot the attachment so here it is again, in case you did not see the "Edit" just now.

PLUS

A TPS wire colour chart, just in case someone has crossed the thing up, and it sounds like it.

AND

A few others that may assist.

 

I will be going back to check the TPS signals today. There is a possibility that the TPS is faulty. It is the OEM black TPS. I copied the following from the JAG-LOVERS forum.
My TPS is wired the same way. Maybe there was a change in the wiring colors somewhere along the way. My harness to the TPS has not been tampered with as far as I can see."The Green wire is a constant
5V input to the TPS and the Yellow wire was a constant .02V on mine,
(voltage to ground).

All tests are done with the key in the run position, engine OFF. The
Red wire voltage (red probe of your voltmeter inserted into red wire
connector and black probe to ground) should vary between .32V at idle
to 4.5V to 5.0V at WOT (Wide Open Throttle)".
The question of the white braided wire still remains unresolved.
Should this wire carry a constant 12v back to PIN 18 or should it be a pulsed signal?
Can someone check this wiring on their car and post their findings? My car is MY 1985.

 

The white wire MUST be a pulsed signal of some sort, because the signal is what tells to ECU to fire the injectors as described in the attached. It does not say what voltage is in the white wire. Grant will have to tell us!
Just to check, are you saying the white wire exiting the amp has a constant 12 volts when you are turning the engine on the starter? Or when you activate the starter, is it a fluctuating voltage?

Additionally, I found this which suggests that the wire has switched 12 volts."Pin 18 will be the ignition signal connection on all 6CU and 16CU EFI ECUs with Lucas ignition. The wire is always shielded, and usually white or white/slate, and it’s the negative side trigger to the coil.

On the Lucas Amp, it comes from the 3 way split on the negative side of the output of the GM HEI module. Internally that’s “C” terminal on the 4pin GM HEI amp (one side is control / 2 pin trigger --> the other side is output +12V and switched ground or “C”)."
So you will have 12 to the ECU, BUT it should pulse as the pickup coil switches the amp.

 

Based on the above, Terminal C off the module is connected to the - side of the coil and also connected to the tach and EFI (Braided White wire) trigger.
That would mean that the signal on the Braided wire will have a constant 12v with the key 'ON' since the - side of the coil will also have 12v present with the key 'ON'.
I did not test the white wire while cranking the engine. I guess I got ahead of myself. I am going to check that after I post this.
I am also going to test the TPS signals and will post the results after.
Cheers.

 

UPDATE:
Using my DVOM to perform the prior tests, I stated that I have 12v on the dreaded white wire.
Today I decided to use a test light to perform the same tests.
+ term on coil = light on
- term on coil = light on
Test lamp connected to ground: probe tip to dreaded white wire, all injectors 'CLICK'
By connecting the test lamp to the White wire, I believe I am creating a ground path for the injectors.
Where do I go next?

 

Sanchez
Time for a summary for us all, as I am getting lost!
Spark: where are we?
Fuel: where are we? I do not understand what exactly you did when you posted: "Test lamp connected to ground: probe tip to dreaded white wire, all injectors 'CLICK' By connecting the test lamp to the White wire, I believe I am creating a ground path for the injectors."
Which bit of the white wire? the bit exiting the amp or the bit going to the ECU, or a tap into that connected circuit, or what?

 

Sorry if is a bit confusing to all. Let me clear this up.
SPARK:
1. I have Ignition SPARK from the Distributor to SPARK plugs. That part of the system is OK.

DREADED WHITE WIRE:
I decided to check for 12v at the coil and the dreaded white wire circuit using a test lamp instead of my DVOM
AT THE AMP: KEY ON
Dreaded White Wire and Tach wire disconnected I have battery voltage at the plugs coming out of the AMP.
With the key still 'ON' when I touch the Dreaded White wire going to the ECU to the corresponding wire coming out of the AMP, I hear the injectors click. How many injectors. Not sure.
With the key still 'ON' and Dreaded White wire now connected to AMP.(I left it in a way so I had some metal on the plug exposed about 1/16 of an inch). Using my test lamp connected to a good ground, when I probe the Dreaded White wire connector with the test lamp, all 12 injectors click. I checked with a stethoscope at each injector
With the white wire to the ECU disconnected from the AMP nothing happens. The injectors only click when the ECU section of the wire is connected to the AMP
So what I was trying to say or rather ask is when I probe the Dreaded White wire connector with the test lamp, am I actually creating a ground causing the injectors to energize.
Hope the above gives a little more clarity.
Ignition system working as it should. DONE.
I am focusing on getting the injectors to energize when I Snap the throttle open and when I crank the engine.

 

Yes, you are causing the injectors to fire when you ground the connected white wire. This is what the ECU does when working normally, so the injectors, subject to their flow not being blocked, are definitely working.
The next thing to find out is if the amp is sending a signal along the white wire. Now I am theorising here, so wait until someone else like Grant, confirms; but:

• the system works by sending a pulse of some sort along the white wire to the ECU and this pulse causes the ECU to fire the injectors
• The pickup under the dizzy starwheel sends a signal to the amp when each cylinder is at the correct point on the compression-to- firing stroke.
• The signal comes into the amp by that black plug on the side
• The signal makes the amp do two things: fire the coil; and send a signal to the ECU to fire the injectors
• This signal must be a quick cut in the 12 volts along the white wire (because that is how the coil is triggered - by cutting the primary coil current)
• So, I think, repeat think, the 12v on the white wire should see a blip in the voltage as the amp cuts the current for an instant.
• So, I think, you should be able to measure this blip, at least with an analogue meter, or possibly a test light, if you place it in the white wire circuit between the amp to loom connector.

If this is right, then this will show if the amp is working as it should be; if it is the no-fuelling cause is elsewhere, and we will turn our minds to that later!