As the title says my fuse keeps blowing, twice now and I have only a few left...some rather critical things are now stuck inside the trunk as it won't engage. Anyone else have this issue? Is there a way to power the trunk lock directly without uhh...accessing the trunk?

 

The trunk lock motor has an orange/white wire and an orange/green wire. Apply power to one and ground to the other. If that's doesn't work the motor in the right direction to unlock, reverse the polarity.

The easiest place to find the wires might be the lock control module

The risk here is that you're applying power to a circuit that is blowing fuses....for an unknown reason. Work quickly!

All that being said, the trunk can't be unlocked using the key? What happens when you try?

Cheers
DD

 

The car has the central locking, so normally the whole thing unlocks or locks as you would expect, with the trunk having a manual override 'function' to keep it locked with a key, if you needed to keep the car unlocked but secure the trunk.

Driver side key slot is loose compared to passenger but...wouldn't that be normal given its had 1000x the usage over it's lifespan? Attempting to lock and then unlock the car (and thus the trunk) causes the fuse to blow on locking what I had to do was get a 10amp fuse and try again via passenger side which did work this one time. Spec is 7.5 fuse not 10 so I've since rescued my tools from the trunk and removed the fuse for now. Prior to this the car often centrally locks then unlocks so two attempts are needed to get it to lock. I have a feeling the door panel is going to have to come off but this system isn't anything I'm familiar with as it's never been a real problem.

 

It's pretty straightforward. A controller sends "+" and "-" voltage to the lock motors, which are reversible by switching polarity.

I'd disconnect the motors and see if the fuse still blows. One of them might have an internal short, or perhaps is binding----which would overload the circuit and blows the fuses

Cheers
DD

 

Hi Van,

Mine is 89' as well - use to have the same issue, now solved - central lock actuator. To get there you will need to remove power window motor and the answer will be clearly visible. Don't have the photo, however whoever made those solenoids - they've used something bad to insulate the electric socket. After so many years it looked exactly like brown sugar. RTV silicone solved the issue. You can easily diagnose which actuator is causing it by elimination. Just jump to the footwell's lower post cover - you can disconnect it without taking door trims off. Same with the boot lock - the wiring loom with rubber plug goes over the right hinge of the boot lid (when facing). You can try slightly bigger fuse - as far as I remember door locks are under the same fuse as the electric mirrors - you may need to check those as well. My advice - start from bigger fuse - replace 7.5A with 10A.