When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was looking through some pictures of removing the cage and it dawned on my ............ exhaust.
They need to be feed through the cage, they were removed as the cage came off but now the cage is on... can I get them back through?
I would throw a complete wobbly if I had to take the cage off again..
Show's how the exhaust went...
I love cable ties, getting closer to finished.
I have tightened the cage bolts and nuts.
Last few pictures, it seem this thread is coming to an end.
Thanks everyone for your input, without it I would not have even started this job....
Special thanks too Greg, Grant, OB and Paul.. cheers
I will update the last few things for people who follow this thread in the future, such as how tight to tighten the following,
The cage is back where it belongs.
The plate I made that locates on my jack was perfect, I did not even use tie downs, just put the jack under the cage and jacked it up.
Moved things around and got the mounting bolts in place, ahole of a job getting to all the nuts around the cage rubber mounts!
The exhaust worked well cable tied up, got everything lined up, clipped the cable ties and pushed the muffles on to their locating pins.
I have joined the exhaust pips - loose, need to get gasket goo finish this.
Speedo cable is feed back through in to the boot.
Drive shaft is loosely joined, need a few more nylocks.
Hand brake ......................................... cable is on, I could not wait to pull on the handbrake lever.................
3 clicks and it is firm as.... on and off I went 3 click each and every time.
So far I am very pleased, actually it was beer a clock with the hand brake.... THANKS GREG !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Fingers crossed the pads have enough contact area!!!
The hand brake cable looks like it has a bend in it when connected... I can not see how this could not, so it must be ok?
Radius arm bolts tight - both ends - need to fold over the special washer.
Brakes bleed.
Took it for a quick blast and all is well, brake pulled to the left a little but came right.
And the big one... hand brake...it will hold the car until about 1800rpm and then starts to move.
Is that ok?
If you mean the bolts that go through the large front bush of the radius arm to the body? Then it's 81-99 Nm
If you mean the smaller bolt that holds the forward end of the metal retaining plate under the bush to the body? Then it's 36-44 Nm
Two 10km drives then off to the testing station......
Got there ealry and had to wait 30min... nervous wait.
The XJS passed the warrant test with flying colors, it was nervous but fun watching the breaking test.
Up go the front tires, nothing touched there and they pass.
Then the rear... when I pulled the cage I had a cap to stop the brake fluid steel pipe, so I bleed the brakes at the calipers only.
Re built the caliper, new pads and discs. - nice and even on the rear brakes... pass.
Then the big one... hand brake.
Handbrake on and the tester hits the gas, both needles move up to around 11 o'clock evenly, and a pass.
The guys doing the WOF said, "someone spent some cash under here... " - it was quite satisfying that it was not a lot of cash... just a ton of time.
Enjoyed it very much.
Big thanks to the forum... Greg, Grant , OB, Paul etc...
(Noticed one caliper is too close to the rear caliper it touched) - Bugger - read on OB's thread about the gap needed....)
It never ends!
Well done for getting her Passed the Test! as I know how that feels and hope I am as lucky with the next one, although I am having a bit of a problem putting on the Exhaust which I can say in all honesty, is turning out a lot harder than it was rebuilding the Cage!
As the Weather is so Freezing Cold that I can't feel my fingers!
Although on the journey to where I am now, I discovered something that could help you with the problem of having one of your Calipers touching the Side of the Rotor, which I was lucky enough to notice before I put the Cage back in the Car
Though first I'm really wondering just how bad that is, as after all your Car did Pass the Test
But if you want to put it right, you'll maybe need to find someone whose got a Garage lift, as if you are able to get the Car up high enough
(after first removing the Trailing Arm on that side)
Then you should be able to remove the Caliper and then undo the 4 Bolts on the Drive Shaft and then once having done so have the Drive Shaft hanging down, as much as you need to so that you can pull the Rotor off
Then having rearranged the Shims, put it all back together without removing the Cage!
Which could well have been the Job from Hell the first time if any of those bolts were rusted solid, though could and should be easier now as all your Bolts have been undone and then replaced with New
10-19-2021, 02:22 PM
