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Those are self-clearing bolts, often used in application where they may be fitted into a thread area that has been painted. The longtitudinal grooves work to remove the paint swarf etc. The threads are constant, not tapered and would not work well to tap into completely unthreaded metal.
I've seen them fitted on a variety of car components, but can't say if they are the correct ones for your cage mounts?
I left the 'V' Mounts attached to the Cradle, which as Grant says, requires 4 Long Bolts each side which is the way that I prefer to do it
When you said you were going to use 'Loctite' I incorrectly assumed you were thinking of using 'Loctite' on the Bolts with the Spring Washers to secure the Cover on the Diff, rather than 'Loctite Sealant' which I have never heard of, so I must get out more (Lol)
I had the same leaking problem, which turned out to be Oil leaking out of the Breather, when I turned the IRS upside down, which may or may not be the same in your case but I would think twice or even three times about using anything other than a New Gasket on the Diff Cover (Lets see what Greg and Grant say on that)
Because if for any reason you decided to replace the Diff Cover later on, then how the heck would you get the old one off without a FBH and a Chisel
As for those Bolts with the 'Helter Skelter' Grooves, I've seen those before and are known as Self Cutting Bolts although I've only ever seen them used to Secure the Big End of the 'Trailing Arms' to the Body of the Car
Nylocks are a 'No No' on the Rotors because of the Generated Heat, as you really need the All Metal ones, although if Nylocks were on there before then who knows but I decided to take 'Gregs' advice and go for the All Metal Locknuts
Caliper Bolts: If the Bolt Heads look Chewed up, from when you undone them, I would use all New ones, as in the event that the heads round off while you are doing them up, then you could have a big problem on your hands
When removing the cage I only removed one mount and these are the bolts that screwed the cage mount to the car...
Are they normal?
They look like you drill the hole the small diameter size and they self tap?
I asked the engineering manager and he has never seen anything like these...
thoughts?
Tomorrow I plan to remove the other 3 just to see, and plate them.
On closer look thanks to this picture.. the ends look like someone has hit them with a grinder?
Duke
Do you men that these bolts, together with their nuts, are the ones that bolt the steel backing plate of the cage mount to the cage? As in numbers 10 and 11 here; https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/
If so, any normal nut and bolt of the same size will do.
HI all - I have not looked at THOSE bolts yet but have been cleaning....
I am sure I have water in the hubs.... through the ABS hole...
Put a rag in there but it got wet and water in in those hubs.. or at least one at this stage.
Ok maybe I forgot to put the rag in there to start with as I had removed the last one as it was wet... so water IS in there!
On a positive note... the right had drive assembly is clean and ready for paint.
OB's words were ringing through my ears... "some times OCD is not always good"
This might be one of these cases!
So How do I re- grease the hubs?
Oh but look how clean it is! LOL
Some time you have to learn the hard way.... and I HAD to clean them...
Thanks OB... great vid.. but the one thing not discussed was the hub grease, on a newer car without the hole..
So I guess more investigation required.
Interesting you mentioned getting the diff cover off, when i was cleaning it I noticed two holes with no bolts... they were threaded.
And after cleaning they are for jacking off the cover when stuck on.. one at the top and one at the bottom.
I did not need them as the cover was sealed with silicon and the bolts were not very tight.
The breather ... did you remove this and check the seal?
I looked at it, removed the circlip, wiggled the breather and put the clip back on. Your words ringing in my ears...LOL
The breather did not move and looked sealed as.. so I left it!
Good option?
Greasing the Hubs without the Hole, I think you 'Blinked and Missed it'
Not your Fault as the Video Jumped from greasing the Hub on a Hub with Holes to greasing something else but then came back to greasing a Hub with No Holes at 8/40 Mins, so while bearing that in mind take another look (even I don't understand the way that I just explained that!) Lol
My Breather also looked OK so I left it as it was and no I didn't check the Seal as I feel that some things are best left well alone
The most important part of the Job is fitting 'Gregs' New Brake Pads, as not having those from the 'get go' are what caused this Carnage in the first place (Lol)
P.S. Did I see a Big Shot Blast Cabinet in one of your Photos, or did my eyes deceive me
OB - yes is a blast cabinet but a small one, uses a lot of air so I can only do a small amount at a time.
I went to to the local bolt shop, dropped off bags with the bolts and nuts I want.
Some of the bolts are slightly to long, so they may not be usable.
Bolts for the drive shaft are wrong so these will be original as will some of the other, other wise I am quite pleased for $35 NZ
Question.. would you use these nuts? These are the ones that have a metal lock, not nyloc on them... x 4
Or buy original... happy enough to buy original.. so I may have answered my own question..
Ok thanks Greg - these are the ones that bolt the drive shafts to the diff with the brake disc's correct... so you would use them?
Just checking as I only brought one to check... I will pick up 7 more tomorrow!
Ok thanks Greg - these are the ones that bolt the drive shafts to the diff with the brake disc's correct... so you would use them?
Just checking as I only brought one to check... I will pick up 7 more tomorrow!
The drain plug was weeping with nylon taper.. plumbers tape. I wanted to use Loctite sealant, nearly used 569 hydraulic sealant, seemed perfect for the job until I check on line and it is high strength.
I do not want to fight this when removing next time.. Several sites suggested the Loctite white thread sealant 567, and I just happened to have some.
LOCTITE 567 is an off-white, UL approved, low disassembly strength methacrylate thread sealant, ideal for sealing coarse threads up to M80/R3”.
LOCTITE® 567 is an off-white, low strength, thixotropic methacrylate thread sealant. It cures in the absence of air and by contact with metals when confined within threads up to M80/R3”. It is best suited for use on coarse metal threads and its breakaway torque rating is 1.7Nm. Viscosity is 280,000 - 800,000 mPa·s and service temperature -55 to +150ºC. UL approved.
Single component - clean and easy to apply
Doesn’t creep, shrink or block systems
Provides an instant low pressure seal
Thixotropic and high/very high viscosity
UL approve
After cleaning and paining the drive shaft assembly - I greased all the fittings and wiped of the extra grease.
Ready to do the 4mm cap screw mod, and block this holes. When I drill and tape the hole I will pump out more grease to remove and crap. The add the screw.
And grease again.
My only **** up was getting water and degreaser in this hole...
Can I pump more grease in the the ABS sensor hole?
Otherwise - looking great, clean and painted, ready to fit.
It is sooo nice working with clean parts! - very pleased.
I am on to buying parts.
And being in good old NZ, they will need to come from over the sea so where possible buying from one supplier is ideal for shipping cost.
I do have a US and UK shipping address that can accumulate parcels and send them on, for a small fortune obviously.
Where possible I do want to buy OEM to get quality where possible.
You could start a whole debate on parts - Genuine Jaguar, OEM or aftermarket! And how do you know that OEM really is OEM?!
I think the key things is to buy from a supplier you know or have been recommended. Moss are well-known. When it comes to brake parts, I would buy genuine Jaguar or OEM. OEM is much more likely to be really OEM if sold by one of the genuine independent aftermarket specialists such as Moss, SNG Barratts, David Manners etc rather than a chinese-supplied part on eBay who just says "OEM".
Moss in the UK have a whole range of rear caliper piston options for XJS from Genuine Jaguar or OEM or aftermarket. Here's a link to their UK page on rear caliper pistons:
08-12-2021, 05:50 AM
