I intend too repair the left blower motor assembly which entails the removal of the dash. While the dash is out of the car I want to upgrade the lighting system. After reading the above postings I am a little confused on the LED's to order for a 1993 XJS Coupe
Questions:
1. What size bulb and part number (indicate US or UK) should I order for the warning lights?
2. Same question for the instrument lights?
3. Did anybody try white lights for the warning lights? Results?
4. Any revisions since your installation?

 

Pulled the Dash; not much to add. Except, the surround (3 screws) 0n the 1993 is split into two parts. The parts have small 3/32 tongues that fit under other plastic parts. They were not easy to slip out, and there are no other screws but the three visible ones.
Removing the plugs was simple once I figure out there are two plastic clips on the top and bottom that need to be squeezed and the plug pulled at the same time
I thought the bulbs would be similar to a simple flashlight bulb; they are not. The bulbs are in a plastic case that fits into the dash recepticals. I am still unsure of the proper bulbs to order. I know they should be super bright LEDs, but I do not know the US number or wattage. Any help appreciate.
AFTERBURNER

 

I am not sure which model you have, but on a pre facelift the main binnacle illumination bulbs are:

Size T10
eg
Garden Light Bulbs 12v Low Voltage Push Fit Set of 10 | eBay

The originals were like this link, but there are now many more in this size that are LEDs. But, as you will see from earlier posts, these can be hard to get into the holders, and are polarity sensitive. If you fir the original type (as link) I recommend using 5watt bulbs, as the originals are far too feeble.

The warning light bulbs on the warning light strip in the instrument binnacle are
Size T5
eg
2 x (Pair) Lucas LLB284 12V 2.3W W2X4.6D T5 Dash Bulb Car Indicator & Panel 284 | eBay

Loads of LEDs for these too, but again, need careful fitting into the holders and are polarity sensitive.
Greg

 

Thanks Greg
I spent about two hours rereading the posts, particularly the ones from Break Buster and Jomo. I think my problem is that they have pre 1992 autos and I have a 1993.
My warning lights are Osram 12/1.2 with a black cap, and the instrument lights are PC194 (replacing Entire ASM) with a grey cap. Neither cap appears to be removable. These are UK numbers directly off the bulbs.
I did note on my previous post that I had a 1993, but I guess you missed it and sent me info on Pre1992 cars (Which I appreciate) Thank you.

This is the info I need for a 1993 XJS Coupe:
1. What size LED/part number (indicate US or UK) should I order for the warning lights?
2. Same question for the instrument lights?

3. Are the bulbs in the instrument panel in the 1993 XJS removable or fixed?

Greg I will appreciate your response, and would like to hear from anyone that can provide info.

AFTERBURNER

 

Afterburner,
My car is actually a 95. The problem with BB is he gave instruction about removing the bulb from the holder without even knowing anything about the bulbs we were getting from superbright. I actually took his advise by removing the bulbs from the sockets and was not able to put things back to together to request a refund from superbrights as these bulbs in the original sockets still did not make contact with my circuit board. Others have had success with this mod but as Paul pointed out 'Some people do seem to have had problems with some LEDs seating properly'. I wish you luck.
Jomo

 

Hi Jomo
Thanks for your response. I hear your frustration.
I still am at a loss on how to proceed. The bulbs in my car (1993) appear to be fixed in their bases and I can't seem to get confirmation that is correct
Fortunately I have time because I still have a left blower to remove and repair.
As far as the glowing Sport light, perhaps a high ohm resister on the hot side to ground would bleed off that current. Might be worth a try
In a few days it will be Christmas and we can sit back and relax and hear or wives say "Honey, the lights on the tree are out again!"
MERRY CHRISTMAS
Afterburner.

 

I have a '91 facelift with the original bulbs and the rheostat turned on high. I can see no reason whatsoever to change them out to LED.........

 

Afterburner1. I just completed replacing all the instrument cluster warning lights and instrument lights in my 93 XJS coupe. I have all the info you need to include the correct polarity diagram for the circuit board. Send me a PM and I will respond with all the info. MHF25

 

Think I've got a handle on the LED lights for the 1993 dashboard. There are two models of LED lights: Those with a base and those without. For those without you buy the base separately..
The second criteria,: The base must be "twist lock."
The identification of the five instrument lights is 194
The identification of the twenty warning lights is 8b.5d
I know nothing about any other year car. The information above applies only to LED illumination
To MAL4C there is difficulty seeing the warning lights in daytime, if at all.

 

Afterburner,
Here is by advice on how to move forward on this project. We know that the bulbs that SouthernGypsy recommended from superbright will either work or not work in your car and that if it works it will work very well. So either purchase one bulb and test it in all sockets OR purchase all 16 bulbs and return them if they do not work. The improvement in the lighting, if it works, makes it worth trying.
Good luck!
Happy Holidays,
Jomo

 

I have read this thread from beginning to end and see the benefit in installing the LEDs. I've copied many of the posts and pictures for reference. The problem solving has been excellent. The only question I have is if there's any reason these LED bulbs would not work well or fit easily in instrument clusters from earlier XJ-S models like my 1982?
Thanks!
BQ

 

To MHF25
There seems to be more interest in illumination with LEDs and since you have successfully finished the project instead of sending me a PM, why not put your info on this thread. Please don't consider me rude or impertinent when I ask you to do this and also ask you to include the actual description of the LEDs used, and who sold them to you. I think that your info could put the Facelift side to bed. I hesitate to comment for the Black Queen because I am unfamiliar with the early model XJS. As someone said "If Jaguar engineers could provide fixes more complicated, they would not hesitate." So who knows what happened between models.

 

Do the LED lights dim properly? My understanding is that they dim a bit and then shut off. Is this correct?

 

Yes the lights only light up for a few seconds when you start your car. The problem is that when the top is done and it is sunny outside you CAN NOT see that the bulbs light up. The big one is not seeing that e-brake light is on.
Jomo

 

I think bcxj is asking if they dim properly via the rheostat, not whether they light up as part of the system check on startup.
Paul

 

I thought that he might have meant that.
Jomo

 

I meant do the dash lights dim properly with dimmer switch.

 

I was kinda hoping MHF25 would follow up with his info before I go scratching around the internet. Still have to replace the blower motor and build its printed circuit. Maybe by that time a solid solution will be out there

 

All You Need to Know About LEDs

by

Jonathanrjpereira




Johnathan presents an interesting article in Instructables Best of 2014, titled as above. I have extracted pertinent parts of this article:


"
So the most common question asked about LED's is the appropriate resistor to use along with. The reason a resistor is used along with LED's is to protect them from excess current which can burn and damage the LED. But choosing the right LED (Sic) Resister. Why? Well if you choose a very high resistance, the LED will not emit its maximum light. And if you a low resistance there are chances of the LED getting Damaged.
So a simple formula was invented:
Resistance = (Source Voltage - LED Voltage) / (LED Current / 1000).
*Keep in mind, the LED Current is in milliamps(mA).
Inorder to make this calculation easier you can use this free Android App LED Resistance Calculator. It is an app designed especially for this Instructable."


"
LEDs don't have a "voltage rating"; they are current-driven. The brightness is roughly proportional to the current, and not directly proportional to the voltage. At any particular current, they will have a forward voltage, but that is secondary to the current, which is the main factor that must be controlled.
Current Ratings
Current ratings of LED's are similar too Voltage Ratings. LED's generally have a standard current rating. Most LED's require about 5-25 mA. The current required by an LED sometimes depends on the Colour of the LED. If you supply excess current the LED will burn and get damaged. On the other hand if you supply very low current the LED will not produce its maximum output. Modern ultrabright red/green LEDs can give acceptable output (for status use etc) on as little as 1mA
Power Ratings
An LED's can have various power ratings depending upon their Type, Build and Current Ratings, etc. LED's also come in 'High Power LED' packages. LED's are less ineffecient than conventional light bulbs such as CFL's and Incandescent Bulbs"


If what Johnathon says is correct, it would mean 21 total resisters. Twenty for the individual warning lights and one for the instrument lights. However, I am not sure you get that much current swings to warrant the fuss over resisters??????????????
Iwent ahead and ordered ten LEDs, Whit, for a test of the instrument lights. I'll report all detail after I install

 

I ordered six T10, plus bases, for the instrument lights. Very bright and fit like a glove! I ordered from a US seller because of time and cost of mail return. Go to Ebay and under Search enter 111463825956
Ordered T5 from another seller but have not received yet. Will report