Sidescrollin, the hoses in your pics do seem to be crimped, not what l have come across in an original car/ hose setting. The ferrules l use for replacement can be used in both push on or crimp applications. I have in the past renewed all hoses on an xjs renewing only the rubber and reusing the fittings and the original ferrules but picking the hose remnants out in order to free up ferrules is very time consuming.

 

SS showed us pics of the hoses that the hydraulic shop made up for him and, yes, they are crimped. The crimping/tool indentations are obvious.

The originals (at least in the engine bay) are not.

Cheers
DD

 

Yeah the pic from the trunk is entirely original. I agree with Baxtor trying to re-use the ferrules is a nightmare. I did it with the fuel rail ferrules and the old hard lines take ages to work out. I can't imagine on the much deeper ferrules for the other lines.

 

HellO All...

Preping for surgery and not a moment to soon.

Lately, literally just in the last couple of days, when in drive I hit the gas I get a crazy hesitation or sometimes she stalls. This has never happened. This is what has transpired in the last couple of days. Hold on to your seats!!!

I went to the car wash the other day. Pollen and flowers abloom here - tinting cherry-pie a slight shad O green. Auto car wash, system pushes the car thru running in neutral, car emerges running and guys towel her off. I get in, start driving and all HELL breaks loose. Car stalls and I just make it off of roadway. Shes never stalled - ever!

I sit, listen, look, SMELL. Smell electrical smoke and see it coming from area just over the open area on the pass side when the top is down. I jump out, run over and start to looking and feeling. No fire, no heat, not there. I stand up straight and start looking around. Open the trunk and am inundated by blinding ploom of white smoke and can see small fire over the battery!!! I'm on my way to class to take a final!!!

I dig in. Put out the small fire with a hand tap,,, which is just electrical tape where is gathers at a loom of wire. Smoke clears, I find that the fuel pump is sitting face (electric side) down in a small puddle of water. Both wires from FPump,,, all the way to the fuel pump relay just over the battery ARE FRIED, like FRIED, and none others - thank god.

Needless to say I started fixing on the spot, and did. Had a spare relay, had some wire and connectors and I am on my way - seemed to be running fine and strong. Actually this was my first short stretch of highway and she really feels good although my fingernails are shorter and bleeding a little.... I am subtracting from the drama here, exponentially, lol. I made it TAKE the final.

Now - today - she will start right up. Fuel pump sounds louder than before - whining. I put her in gear and press the gas and she will often stall in forward or reverse... Or run but will nearly stall on initial acceleration and feels much weaker (just wrong) than before. Feels like LOW fuel pressure. Possibly a crappy RELAY? Are there specs that I should know about when using a general/universal 5 prong relay,,, AS a fuel pump relay? I noticed the old said 30 amps. Are they a higher amped rating?

Another thing I noticed before all of this was a smell of gas when idling and driving. Faint but for sure. I removed the vac line from the FPReg on the return side and the FPReg is spitting gas. Gladly I have the replacement in hand.

SURGERY ---- I will order a new fuel pump and filter (if anyone has psi rating that would be helpful) --- this is a good thing because the tank, when I started all of this if you remember, had rust and needed to be nickle soldered and the entire base of the tank was heavy coat epoxied from the outside.... The FPump I have is whining worse than it was. I have 12 Bosch reman fuel injectors from a well noted reman dealer in California. 300 bucks - I am pleased! I intend to remove rail, all lines and replace. I have my new bosch FPReg for the return line and will eliminate the intake side FPR as has been suggested to me. I have 20ft of SAE 30r9 fuel hose and fuel line clamps. One new manufactured fuel line on its way.




WORTH alllllll the FUSS

 

Do not start or drive it until this work has been done!

 

Understood. The wiring in the truck and for fuel pump is completely mended. She just came out of it running poorly. I think the pump is on its way out (just ordered a Mercedes pump at 5 bar) and the leaking FPReg isn't helping.

 

That's what I meant, raw fuel is being dumped into the manifold.

 

It's been raining here. I am raring to go.

Received Mercedes 5bar fuel pump. New hose 30r9. Bosch fuel pump reg for the return. Two sets of good fuel line clips/clamps. The replacement fuel pipe/line with the long metal section on the LH drivers side. 12 reman fuel injectors (very pleased about that) and 12 little spec O rings for injector bases. New fuel filter.

I have some questions about the need for the "coolant" section of fuel line that goes into the hosing on the A.C. set up... What do people think about that? My A.C. doesn't even work.....?

I'll be pulling the fuel rail and reinstalling injectors and new hose sections. Eliminating inlet fuel pressure reg. Moving the filter (maybe) under the hood and giving some attention to the pump set up in the boot. LEAVING the sump in place - for now - heeding the warning about making that change!

 

You can completely bypass the fuel cooler. Jaguar themselves eliminated this on later V12 XJSs. Just go straight from the FPR outlet (the one that goes to the FPR) to the return line.
Leave the boot stuff OEM, including the filter, as it was, for the moment, say I. Great news on all the new bits. Good for you. In the end you will have a lovely reliable car.

 

Yes! I have a long way to go but am o nly pleased (beyond) with where I am in this.

I have wanted to do away with the extras around the coolant situation since I saw it, so yes. I will do that.

OEM in the boot it is then. No harm no foul. Considering the work I did on the tank, its good to be replacing filter and pump even though I've only driven enough to exhaust maybe 2 full tanks.

Thanks very much. I be reaching out as soon as I am in over my head,,, again

 

JJJ
FYI when refitting the new injectors, if they do not come fitted with new rubber seals, you will need some. From memory there are two sizes required for each injector, as shown in this pic, one of the large round ring-like seals, and one of the small ones per injector.

 

Hi. Thank you Greg. I have. I bought two sets planning ahead last year! Don't go accusing me of being smart, now!!! I simple won't have it!

I'll see if the larger upper rubber is still good. I'd guess they are, still. One year, barely driven.

And yes, the reman FI came with screens, a good thing. What are the small tube like things in the photo?

 

Pintle caps, your refurbed injectors will have them already. They protect the injectors at the actual fuel-injecting end.

 

Got ya. Thanks.

 

Well then, you know what it's going to be like without the cooler!

What I find here in the south US is that driving around pumping fuel through a 200F engine bay warms the fuel! I know, not surprising. If you carry on doing that for quite some time without any form of cooling being applied to the fuel it keeps getting warmer! I know, not surprising.

Eventually the temp of the entire tank of fuel get high and it is evaporating at a high rate. If you've the tank vapor reclamation intact you suck this in the engine I think. I don't have it so it has to escape out the vent tubes or cap. And it does. My milage drops significantly in high temps. Not on the computer, it thinks it's the same, but I was loosing more than 1 gallon out of 20 last July.

I will not go another summer boiling my fuel away ( no ac here either ) so either I get a fuel cooler for under the bumper in front of the rads or I change the whole pumping scheme.

 

 

Looks good.

 

good one

 

 

alternative fuel systems; ??

beside working good may as well look good to!