I have a 1996 Jaguar XJS, with the AJ16 engine.

I think I’m about to do something stupid crazy… I am going to replace my fuel tank. I cannot get rid of the fuel smell after I fill the tank up. It seems to go away when it’s about half full, but summer is coming, and it might be worse than that.

All of the hoses outside of the tank were upgraded to Gates Barricade. Does anyone know what I should prepare for the new tank? I couldn’t find a new tank, so I’m going to have to buy one from a salvage yard.

Denso Fuel Pump
Fuel Filler Gaiter CBC87033 (recently replaced, but no guarantee it survives in tact)
Fuel Filler Gasket CAC7509 (recently replaced, but no guarantee it survives in tact)

I recently replaced both fuel sender and evap canister gaskets with homecut Viton gaskets, so I won’t bother replacing those. Anything INSIDE the tank that I should prepare myself for?

I’ll worry about the foam padding if what I pull out ends up being a disaster.

Question: What should I expect when dealing with the removal of the convertible top pump? I know I'll have to get that out of the way.

 

Vee
Are you 100% certain that the fuel vapour breather/ventilation system is working properly?

 

I think so.

I've been driving for several weeks with the hose leading up to the Rochester valve disconnected. Then, this weekend, I removed the baffle and was able to blow compressed air from the gas tank end of the hose, and feel the air coming out of the end by the Rochester valve, in the drivers wheel well. I think that entire assembly is clear. I blew in with my mouth as well, and although I had to blow hard, it was getting through. I figured the effort was due to the small diameter of the hose/tubing assembly as well as the distance the air traveled.

I tried to blast brake fluid through the lines, but it never made it to the other side. I shot some in from one side, then squeezed some compressed air to push it through, but all I got on the other side was the air.

I has also replaced the evaporative flange, with gasket previously.

 

Hi Vee

Removing the Fuel Tank of an AJ16 with an Internal Fuel Pump is a NIGHT MARE OF EPIC PROPORTIONS! and Such a PIA to do, that it will be one of those jobs that you will wish you'd Never Started!

And Yes you are about to attempt something 'Stupid Crazy' as you say!

Where having done this job twice before, I would predict that its going to end in Tears and you are going to wonder whatever possessed you to even think about starting this job in the first place!

Replacing The Fuel Filler Gaiter and Fuel Gasket is one of the worst jobs that I have ever had to do on any Car!

Though if you still do wan't to go ahead, then this is what you do

Full Write up including loads of Photos: Removing The Fuel Tank And Replacing The In-Tank Fuel Pump

 

Hi Vee

In all seriousness I would look into the possibility of having a Stainless Steel Fuel Tank Custom Made with an External Fuel Pump the same as on a V12 where the only part that I would get from a Scrap Yard is the Sump Tank, which shouldn't be too difficult to fit

On your present Set Up, both the Flow and Return Fuel Pipes are located underneath the Car, where rather inconveniently the Rear Axle Cage is in the way and this is one of the reasons why Jaguar have a Special sort of Tool to take them off and if you haven't got one (and who has outside of a Jaguar Shop) then the Tears of Frustration are going to Start to Flow!

And while its fairly easy to make one, its just an extra bit of Hassle you can do without (ask me how I know, or rather don't!)

If that little job looks rather difficult to you (especially if you haven't got a Car Lift, though maybe you have?) Trust me when I tell you that you are on 'The Nursery Slopes' at this Stage, because replacing the Fuel Filler Gasket (That's right that £72 of very flimsy rubber) is an absolute Nightmare to get on or even get off, namely because there is no room to be able to get your hand in there to do it

If that doesn't finally drive you to drink, you've still got the Fuel Pump to Fit, for which you could kiss good bye to $100 if you decide on a 'name brand' where if you have an external Pump as fitted to a Pre-Facelift V12 then you could fit a Cheap Generic one, as that type of Fuel Pump is Fitted to loads of Cars $35

I always Carry a Spare one of those which I could replace by the side of the Road in about an hour should it ever go wrong, although it been on my own V12 for 5 years and Counting

The other Problem with an In-Tank Fuel Pump, is that its the Petrol that Lubricates the Motor and while this is also true of the Pump on a V12 Pre-Facelift because of how the V12 Pre-Facelift Pump is positioned it is a lot less likely to Fail even if you have a minimum amount of Fuel in the Fuel Tank

Because as long as the Sump Tank is Full then it has the Lubrication of the Fuel

Not quite the Same Story for the In-Tank Fuel Pump because this also needs the Fuel to keep it Lubricated, which is why inside the Tank the Fuel Pump is Surrounded by a 'Coffer Dam' type of enclosure where 10 Gallons of Gas might be needed just to reach the 'Sock Filter' on the bottom of this Pump, as you will see for yourself when you look inside it

Where with Petrol Prices as high as they are at the moment especially in places like the UK there may be a Temptation not to fill the Tank quite so full as maybe you normally would, as without enough Lubrication this type of Fuel Pump could well Fail much quicker than the External Fuel Pump on a Pre-Facelift V12 that is more heavy duty in the way that its constructed and in comparison has some 'Heft' to it

Also the V12 Pump is a Vane Pump and the In-Tank Pump is Impeller (if I remember correctly what 'Grant' told me?)

As things Stand removing that Tank and Re-Fitting those 'Rubber Gaiters' could be 'The Job From Hell' and it didn't get any easier for me to do the Second Time around, where I promised myself that I would never ever try and do that job again!

Refurbing the IRS on my XJS V12 was an absolute 'Walk in the Park' compared to that

So for what its worth or not as the Case may be, really give it a good think through and consider all the options before you Start this Job, as it's nowhere near as easy as it looks

The Super Heavy Duty Generic Type Of Fuel Pump As Fitted To a Pre-Facelift XJS V12 That I Re positioned So I Could Easily Change It By The Side Of The Road If I Had To

 

orangeblossom...I did spend many many hours pouring over your informative posts. Certainly very helpful.

I have already replaced the gaiter and o-ring at the fuel filler! I was convinced that was the problem....but no dice. I have also replaced the evap flange and the gasket, as well as all of the small hoses associated with that flange and filler neck with Gates Barricade hoses....no dice.

I am concerned about being able to pull off the hoses with a homemade tool.

I am concerned about getting out enough fuel to move the darned thing.

I do not have a lift.

I will call the shop today and figure out if I can get them to give me an estimate to do this work....just so I know.

 

Hi Vee

The Home Made Tool is basically a Piece of 1/2 Copper Water Pipe with an Open Slot cut in it to Slide over the Fuel Pipe (either the Flow or Return Pipe) so you can Push on the Fittings to be able to compress them enough to pull off the Clips and so that part is ideally a 2 person Job

Where apart from the Baffle Plate which you've already removed, the Fuel Pipes are the Only Thing that hold the Tank in Place, although with all that foam around it, then it will feel as if its Welded in

After disconnected the Fuel Pipes from the Bottom of the Tank, then you and a Mate might be able to pull it back enough to remove the Evaporator on the Top of the Tank to empty it out

 

OB
Have you got a pic of the tool?

 

Hi Greg

As a matter of fact I have, The 'T' Shaped Handle is optional but I went a bit OCD


The whole Sorry Saga of Removing the Fuel Pipes and The Fuel Tank and Replacing The Fuel Pump is right here on Pages: 91 to 93 Removing The Fuel Tank and replacing the Fuel Pump on an XJS 4.0L

 

Called the Jag shop and he estimated $2k to pull it, send it to get it coated (renewed) and put it back in. The only problem is that it will take several weeks.... I think I might just go this route.

Getting a used tank concerns me, since I may simply be installing a ticking time bomb for this to happen again?

And regarding that tool above, I understand that its best to put a slight bend in it where it's been sliced open?

 

Hi Vee

While I certainly wouldn't blame you for taking this to a Shop, I would be very wary of getting it coated assuming they mean Coated on the Inside, as I have heard Horror Stories about the Coating coming off which could block up the Fuel Pump and send you all the way back to Square One

I don't mean all the Coating but even a little bit could be enough and $2k is a lot of money even though that could well be the going rate for the Job

As a matter of interest or not as the Case may be, I sent my own Fuel Tank away to be 'Professionally Cleaned' and they made such a 'Frap Up' of this including losing internal Parts that could not be replaced that I refused to pay them as well as leaving them in no doubt what I thought of their tank cleaning service

So do be aware what can happen

For less than $2k I'm fairly sure that you could get a Fabricator to make you a Stainless Steel Tank and while it won't be having the Curves of the Original one and would probably be Slab Sided and look like a Wedge of Cheese, as long as it fits in the Hole then that is really all that counts

Check out these guys Vee they may deliver to the US and would possibly have the dimensions already to hand, although in any event they could give you some idea of the Cost Classic Car Fuel Tank Manufacturers

Then you could Sell your original Tank to offset the Cost

Plan 'B' would be to have your own Tank Modified for an External Fuel Pump like on a V12 Pre-Facelift then your Fuel Pump Problems could be over for all time, as a V12 Fuel Pump Filter and Sump Tank could be a bit more forgiving than an In-Tank Fuel Pump

Plan 'C' would be to get a Fuel Cell like 'Ron Bros'

As for me the only type of Coating that I would be happy with, is having the Tank Cut in half Horizontally then Spray Galvanized and Welded Back together

 

Filled up the tank. Smell is back. I could not get so much as a whiff of fuel from underneath the car, after parking it all day in my garage at work, so I'm pretty certain it's gotta be the tank.

Since the tank is full and the smell is as bad as its ever gonna get, I'll have a go, one last time usign the sniffer to see if I can find anything. I can really only reach one side of the tank seam, I guess I only get about 35% of the probable area of failure for investigation.

I have to decide whether I want to do this myself, or take it to the shop....

 

I think I'm going to spend some time this week looking to see if I can find a fabricator for this job. I do like the idea of it. I just don't know if it can be done without sending someone an actual tank.

 

I've not seen a late XJS tank, does it have the plastic evaporate loss flange on the top like the X300's do? I'm wondering if you have a leak at the sender or the flange at the top?

Have you tried doing a search at car-part.com? I see a number there for $150-$250.

 

Hi Vee

I very much doubt if they would want the actual Tank as a Pattern, as they have probably got the Schematics of every Car Manufacturer, so I would definitely give it a go and have one made, though also letting them know you also want the Flow and Return Connections near the base of the Tank, either as well as or instead of the Flow and Return Connections that you already have at the rear

Then you will have the option of fitting the Heavy Duty Pre-Facelift V12 Fuel Pump, in the event the In-Tank Pump may decide to pack up some time in the Future, as trust me when I tell you that having to pull that Tank out again, is such an unrewarding task that it should be avoided by whatever means

After a little re-read of your Post, I came across the Word 'Estimate' which in my eyes is a 'Big Red Flag' as that could very easily mean another $500-$750 where $2500 is well on the way to buying another Car!

Good Luck with whatever you decide

Alex

 

What would happen if I cut that gaiter away completely? I could then monitor what happens at the filler neck when filling? Maybe throw some baby powder around there to see if there’s any evidence of a leak?

That gaiter and o-ring has been replaced.

 

Hi Vee

If I remember correctly that 'Flimsy Rubber Gaiter' is about £70 but if you want to get it off, then Cutting it off is probably the only way to go as it seems to Glue itself to the Filler Neck and putting a New one back in its place, is a really equally impossible sort of a job

And while I'm not saying it can't be done, it could take you forever and a day and that is one of the reasons that pulling the Tank to replace a Fuel Pump is so difficult to do, as while pulling the Tank looks easy, those little jobs like the 'Gaiter' and the breather pipes to the Filler are a Total PIA

If I were doing this job again, which I hope to never have to do

Since you've got the Baffle Plate out and can see the Width of the Tank, I would take a leaf from the 'Ron Bros Playbook' and ask a Fabricator to make you a very simple Oblong Fuel Tank out of Stainless Steel, no Crazy Shapes, just a simple Oblong Tank that would Slide into the Cavity with some lugs with holes in to bolt it to the Floor

This shouldn't cost you very much, I'm guessing $500 with a simple neck filler pipe that you can actually get to and also a Single Outlet so that you can connect that to a Sump Tank and use a Pre-Facelift V12 Fuel Pump instead of the In-Tank Fuel Pump

Which I'm betting will be easier and take a lot less time and money than you think, as once you take her to a 'Shop' no matter how good they may be, then that is the moment that you could very easily lose control of the situation

Which Trust me when I tell you is something that you Never want to do

 

Interesting development.

After my most recent adventure in the boot, replacing the last rubber hose I missed the first two times I was in there, then blowing compressed air into the evap/charcoal canister hose, I thought that the fuel smell did not return as strongly.

So when it was time to tank up, I only filled it up with 10 gallons, about 6 gallons short of a full tank, according to my pretty darn accurate trip computer.

I still noted a smell, so I bought a $60 ozone generator on Amazon. I ran it for about 20 minutes and the smell is gone. It was the carpeting in the trunk that had trapped the gas smell! So I have a clean slate. It was the carpeting in the trunk that had trapped the gas smell!

So far I haven't refilled the tank, but the car has no fuel odor in the car.

I will fill it back up to the same amount I did last time, 6 gallons short of full to see if the odor comes back. If not, I'll go hog wild and fill it to the max after a few days of driving. Will report back.

I'm hoping to prove that the tank itself is indeed fine. There was either (1) a clog in the evap lines, which regardless, I will do more thorough investigating, including removing the hard pipes and checking them for any clogs, OR (2) a problem at the filler neck connection somewhere. I am concerned that if I fill up the tank, the fuel may be leeching out of the gaiter area. I have very recently replaced both that gaiter AND the o-ring that connects the two pipes....I'll have to investigate that further as well.

 

In case this helps anyone in the future.

The hard pipe that runs alongside the fuel tank and pops out underneath the car is a 3/16” pipe. (CBC9539) I’m going to try and bend some new pipe and replace it. I think I’ll upsize it because….

The hard pipe underneath the car is 3/8” hard pipe.

Not sure why it has to be so small alongside the tank. The hole can easily handle a 3/8” pipe just as well. It should make the rubber hoses needed to connect these sections of hard pipe much easier to keep track of.

 

I filled up the tank this morning. No smell.

I believe I may have resolved this problem sooner but was unaware because the residual fuel smell made me believe it was coming back, so I don’t know what it was that I did that fixed the problem.

The good thing is that the fuel tank will not need to be pulled!

Thanks to all for the help!