got my tach calibration fairly close. its still off a touch but its closer than it was when it still had the original engine in it.

 

I'm just not sure if you can consider "drifting" racing??? You don't get style points in Racing???

Jack

 

Nice job on the tach. What all did it take to get it that close?
I'm going to take all the Jag sensors I can, and install them on the 460. As all they see is pressures. So I'm hoping to side step some of the gauge issues. But the Tach is a totally different thing.

Jack

 

i used a dakota digital tach interface that allows you to alter the tach signal. it has ability to alter the signal type as well however that wasn't really needed for me, my tach in this car never read correctly from the start even when it still had the jag engine in it so it took a bit more playing with it. i think i may be able to get it a bit closer yet,

first i set it for every 8 pulses in it would output 6 pulses out (6cyl to 8cyl conversion) to start and that took me to where the tach read before the engine swap but it still read high so then i selected for every 8 pulses in 5 out and that was closer but still a touch high so i went to 9 in to 5 out and that's where its at now, probably 40-50rpm's low. i might try 10 in to 6 out that should put me right between 9in 5out and 8 in 5 out. i think there may be a fine calibration mode as well but ill have to dig into the pdf instructions a bit as well the paper instructions that came with it are a bit vague. but basic setup is pretty simple key on power ground plug a tach singal wire into the input type you need and then a tach output wire going to the tach in the output spot for the output type then when you power then there is two buttons and a led display that you use to navigate some of the different settings.

its about 80 bucks for the interface but i couldn't find anything on modifying face lift tachs plus i knew id need some fine tuning on it as i knew my tach never read properly in the first place. then the other nice thing about doing it this way is if i ever have to replace my gauge cluster the new cluster wont need to be modified.

the other gauges are pretty easy to just use the jaguar sending units and in my facelift car the speedo is driven off a tone ring in the rear diff so that didn't need to be messed with. i did break my jaguar sending unit for oil pressure when i tried to remove it so iv got a different oil pressure sending unit in there now so the scale is off on that. i did recently order a replacement jaguar sender to fix that. in that last picture of my tach my temp gauge wasn't working but thats because i have the jaguar sending unit in the cyl head and i unplugged it while i was changing spark plugs and didn't realize it until i started driving the car and had to wait for it to cool off to plug it back in as i have to reach in under the exhaust manifold to plug it in. fuel gauge also wasn't working in that picture cause i had just filled it up and there is a dead spot in the sending unit in the tank near full but thats not swap related....lol it starts working again around 3/4 of a tank.

the temp gauge was a issue before the swap as well because 93 was a 1 year only deal on the temp sending units and there no longer available the next closest sending unit has a slightly different resistance value so i had to make a little jumper harness that has a couple resistors in it between the sending unit and the rest of the harness but that was done before the swap as well. but i run a 160* thermostat with the blower and it runs 1/4 of the way up the gauge and when i ran a 190 it ran right in the center. 3/4's of the way up the gauge is 210 checked with a thermometer.

 

Thanks for the info. I've read several of the swap posts here, and most weren't very clear about all the intricate things it takes to get it all to work correctly. Mine is a Pre facelift with the cylindrical gauges. Which I think are kinda cool, and I sure want to have it look original. That is until you raise the hood, and see the "Cobra" Intake, and dual carbs! There will be several subtle changes to the rest of the car, but since Jags aren't that prevalent, it will be hard for most, to notice somethings afoot. The Rumble of a 460 Big Block Ford through 2 1/2 duals will give them something to think about. Then they should start asking questions. HE HE HE ! ! !

 

its been a while sense iv updated this thread. i still need to get some pictures but iv got the new wheels and tires on it. running a 245/40/18 rear and 235/40/18 front, they fit perfect, could probably even go a touch wider on the rear. there 200 treadwear summer performance tires, there a lot stickier than the old all seasons on the 15's could still use a bit more traction but you can hit it way lower in 2nd gear and keep it hooked up than you could before. i didn't go with top of the line tires as i wasn't 100% sure on fitmit but ill probably swap the rears out for something even sticker in the future. i can tell you its faster than a infinity G 60 red sport by about a car length from 20mph-70 ;-). he even got a pretty good jump on me. i was kinda surprised i expected to walk away from him without even going wide open till he jumped out almost a car length on me and i had to play catch up...lol. didn't get all the way on it till i was about even with his back bumper and when we let off he was about even with my back bumper. i had to take a second look at the car and look up the specs on it afterwards....lol its a turbo charged 400hp all wheel drive car with a 0-60 under 5 seconds.

did a lot of little tinker stuff on it over the winter the fuel gauge quit all together i had been having some issues with it prior to that, ended up having to re solder some connectors on the sending unit. got my oil pressure gauge working properly and some other little odd and end stuff. nothing major though.

now that the weather is shaping up out now i am playing a bit with blending some e-85 in with non ethanol premium pump gas. i think i talked a bit earlier in this thread about how i had to set everything up pig rich to keep some pre-ignition at bay, turned out that was all caused by the auto parts store selling me a set of plugs that were stock heat range as a direct replacement for plugs that were 2 heat ranges colder. got that sorted out and actually now have a ngk plug in it that is 3 heat ranges colder and its been very happy. iv been slowly leaning it out a little bit at a time. i had gotten it to where i was pretty happy with it i just pretty much wanted to target about 5-7% leaner pretty much everywhere across the board. when i got the idea. e85 runs about 30% leaner in lamda than gasoline and is highly oxygenated also is higher octane. i want to keep concentrations low enough that i don't have to make major tuning changes to be able to go back to straight 91 octane. plus im not sure if my fuel pump would be able to keep up to running straight e85. e85 is also a highly oxegneated fuel so using a bit of it will introduce a bit more o2 in the combustion chamber than your engine would be able to breath in otherwise. for now i want to keep the ethanol concentration low enough that i can run straight premium if e85 is not available without having to make any major tuning changes. also want to be able to run non ethanol come fall into winter as its harder to keep fuel fresh over the winter months when the car isn't driven much. this would be simpler if i was running efi as you could automatically correct for changes in fuel density. i I will say though that there is a nice seat of the paints gain in power with the blended fuel. some of that i will attribute to just being leaner but i think having more oxygen contained in the fuel is part of that as well.

look forward to trying to get the car out to a few track events this summer, hopefully i can get at least a couple to line up with my schedule.

 

Cool Man, keep tweaking it. One day it'll "Scream"

Jack

 

Ezrider if your onto blending your own gas I suggest checking out two items that I occasionally use, its a combination of Toluene, and the magic ingredient Archoil 6200 combustion modifier. I have no sensors or onboard diagnostics in my mostly stock car to measure real world differences but the whistle from the engine, and the trusty butt dyno says it works great vs a tank generic premium gas. Archoil is phenomenal though worth looking into.

 

im mostly just kinda experimenting with e85 because there are some other performance benefits to it besides just the octane/knock resistance. i may go full e-85 at some point unless i encounter some issues but not quite convinced enough yet to make that leap.

i did grab a few pictures of the car today with the new rims and tires on it. car is a bit dirty because iv been driving it so try to ignore that....lol

i think if i remember right the rims were 18x 8.5 or 9 with a 30mm offset. tires are 235/40/zr 18 front and 245/40/zr18 rear.

 

Looks Good, Looks Real Good. Wish I could get mine to that point. Life keeps getting in the way.

Jack

 

thanks, keep on plugging away at yours little by little and it will get there too.

 

so i just noticed a problem i have not really noticed before. it seems i am pulling enough g forces to push the oil away from the pickup on acceleration. eaither that or the oil climing the back of the pan is getting whipped by the crank shaft. its using a stock 90's vortec chevy truck oil pan witch has some baffling in it. but i noticed. under hard acceleration my oil pressure is dropping about in half. this engine does have pretty stout oil pressure. to start with but its certainly a bit concerning. not really sure how long its been doing that but i noticed it was present even in this clip i recorded a while back, oil pressure gauge goes out of view for a second but you see the oil pressure go up with rpms then drop under 40psi and jump right back up again when i let off at the very end of the clip.



probably going to try dropping the oil level a quart first and see what that does, if the crank is wipping the oil as it climbs the back of the pan running a quart low might fix it, if not probably going to need to add a trap door baffled oil pan and maybe an accusump.

 

From afar:

1. E85 is all we get around here. OK for almost all uses. All out racers use track fuel. Only available at the track.

2. Andrew of jaguar-Specialties has a fix for the tach.

3. Check out windage trays and flappers for the oiling issue,

Side bar: Circa 1950, College l chum, Roy and I replicated his HS ride. A much altered 28 A ford. Sport coupe turned open roadster.. After it was doe and we played withy it while, Roy tired f it and sold it. The buyer was enchanted and cut a bunch of hot donuts in the dirt!! Tossed a rod out the side. No oil to the bearigs???

Sad, it was not fixed. I wanted it, but other issues prevented that. iot was junked!!!!

Carl .

 

Carl, you say you cant buy regular 87/91 oct. gas where you live??

straight E85 loses around 25% MPG compared to 87/91, gasoline!
ron

 

EZ, to add to the blending ideas,, 10% Nitromethane added to premium gas can roughly add 10% more power!
but 20% may add as much as 30% power ,, and 50% has been known to make like 100% more than before, of course by now engine entegrity and some serious TUNING will become more important!

but running 100%(98%) NitroM. has been known to make 1000% more power!

N/M makes its own OXYGEN as it burns , dont need no carbs/ fuel injectors etc. or anything but method of getting it in the cylinder and lighting it OFF!!
it is said that good N/M engines only use the blower for a fuel pump to get N/M into the engine!

kinda silly aint it,, those crazy Americans can sure come up with some unusual things! i love it makes America great !!
ron

 

Learn something new every day - had never heard of Nitromethane as fuel! (this means nothing, I am not a mechanic). Ron, any takers on your car yet?

 

i had the tach working properly last fall but at some point over the winter it stopped working haven't looked into it yet this spring, i have a secondary tach as well so its not too big of a issue. ill get it fixed again.

i did a little bit of messing with it today my problem seems to be oil aeration rather than the pickup being uncovered. basically the oil is climbing the back wall of the pan high enough to hit the crank. first i added 1 quart of oil and the problem was unchanged to i drained 2 quarts of oil and now the oil pressure holds rock steady. im using a 97 chevy truck pan witch is a baffled pan, but not to the level of like a canted road race pan. i am happy that just changing the oil level was able to fix it for now, really didn't want to pull the engine this summer ill probably make plans to upgrade oil pans this winter. if no other issues arise just running it 1 quart low.

e85 is kind of the same concept as n/m not to the same level obviously but its 30% less dense but more highly oxygenated. also being that this is a street car much more than a track car trying to stick with easily accessible fuels. another benefit to e85 is draws more heat from the air than gasoline. 91 is premium fuel and contains no ethanol. currently im blending 91 with 30% e85 with non ethanol 91 witch results in about 96 octane.

 

FLINT: i havent met the right guy YET!
some guys are a little intimidated by my car, its not particularly fast , about 400hp on a good day maybe! best dyno was 355 hp at the wheels!

but at a car show it really comes into its own, NOTHING around makes such an impression, or sound of 12 cylinders out one exit!
ron

 

sorry guy i haven't updated this in a long time but i did take it to a autocross event today, ill put together a youtube video on it later, but here is a clip of one run


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i got the you tube video done and uploaded if anyone is interested. had a ton of fun with the car that day. have plans to take it to the drag strip next month. other than that i don't think a whole lot has changed on the car sense i last updated besides just fiddly stuff been super busy sense spring started and haven't had a whole lot of time to do much.