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As the title says I've an oil leak. Annoying after all the work that's been done but obviously somethings not right. Everything up top was renewed and looks dry. Cam covers ok oil pressure switch etc.All dry. Oil feed pipes were swapped for the ones with more thread and could be but I cant see them . The oil is around the sump to tranny joint. It seems to only appear when the engines been running and a similar amount each time then stops? Do you think it could be coming out of the sump gasket under pressure? Then stopping when she's turned off? Need to put an end to it!
By crankcase breather I'm assuming you mean the rubber elbow with a filter in it at the front of the engine. If so yes and all renewed and good. Just had a good look and I can see banjo bolts not leaking. Phew. Lot of dust down there after respray and it's all bone dry thank God. All the top of the bell housing is bone dry so it seems like its underneath. I put a new sump gasket on but it's no guarantee knowing me! Will put a photo on later.
Some may remember I had banjo bolts leaking on the back of the engine. Took the LH driver's side bolt off to find PO had used a make shift piece of plastic as a sealing washer. Replaced it with copper and MOST of my leaking stopped, but not all. At the time I swore there was no oil flow there, then on close close looong look (just standing there staring like a WackO) I saw the thinnest stream of oil smooooothly streaming down in a seam making its way down and around and ending up coming off the car in an area I would have been pressed to connect to the bolt up top O the engine.
I still have a leak and I'm sure it's my gasket(s) - tranny tub too. I want and have to do these. Both oil and sump. On the list. Thing is when I am under the car there is NO clear line that lets me KNOW it is the sum(s)... It like the oil/fluid just magically appears, from somewhere...
I also want to replace these two orings. But have some questions about how to get the section of the filter assembly/housing that holds them off the car. It looks sandwiched by the sandwich plate, the assembly itself and how everything is bolted together. I can tell how to get "12" out.
Not hijacking the thread here, but I'll post pictures (ones I got from Greg, Grant or Doug) that puts the oring area I question,,, as a possibility for your issue as well. I'll go back to my thread looking for answers when I'm gearing to attempt the orings.
When I was replacing the downpipes I finally got a good look in this area, the "question mark" pipe and it's two short hoses looked fine, and as I said (and it's a bit messy down there) I can't TELL where my leak is. I should have just done stuff when the downpipes were not in the way.
NOT a simple item to get out, as the inner bolt of the 3 on #14 in near impossible. Then 14 should slide UP 12, and then jiggle it all out, major PITA. If the 2 bits do not slide up, and mine did not, then teh oil filter housing needs to be undone, and the whole shooting match out as one unit of many bits.
I would really check if thats leaking, and yours looks dry, and leave it until the engine is out.
RARE to leak there, it is usually the 2 hoses that you have renewed.
As the title says I've an oil leak. Annoying after all the work that's been done but obviously somethings not right. Everything up top was renewed and looks dry. Cam covers ok oil pressure switch etc.All dry. Oil feed pipes were swapped for the ones with more thread and could be but I cant see them . The oil is around the sump to tranny joint. It seems to only appear when the engines been running and a similar amount each time then stops? Do you think it could be coming out of the sump gasket under pressure? Then stopping when she's turned off? Need to put an end to it!
Are you sure it is engine oil and not ATF leaking? You say it is coming out the sump to tranny joint. The sump does not actually join to the tranny but if it is leaking from the transmission pump it will drip out the torque converter cover, which is just behind the engine sump and also get on the catalysts. If that is where it is coming from, it will require transmission removal to repair. The torque convertor to pump seal will leak when running but the pump to transmission case seal tends to leak when parked.
Goodo on those Banjo bolts. I will salute that with a snort of Jameson later.
I agree with Greg, and that is one reason I stopped using gaskets on tin pans, they simply frustrate me, more so as I age not so gracefully.
Have a read, and ask away.
Grant, I assume that you have had good results using RTV on the lower oil pan? I am about to do mine and planned on using a gasket because I was concerned that it would be difficult to get the upper surface adequately clean and dry for the RTV to bond.
Goodo on those Banjo bolts. I will salute that with a snort of Jameson later.
I agree with Greg, and that is one reason I stopped using gaskets on tin pans, they simply frustrate me, more so as I age not so gracefully.
Have a read, and ask away.
I will have a go at this method grant. Questions: You say half a turn when it's gone off. I would be scared they are not tight and will come loose when driving.? How much squished out on initial tightening? Are they about nipped up then? . I will have a go .
Grant, I assume that you have had good results using RTV on the lower oil pan? I am about to do mine and planned on using a gasket because I was concerned that it would be difficult to get the upper surface adequately clean and dry for the RTV to bond.
YES.
The key here is CLEAN, and OIL FREE, and with an engine sump ,and/or trans pan, dribble down it NOT friendly.
After removal of the old stuff, and Solvent cleaning many times, I just called it beer o'clock, and went back next day, and wiped up any mess, Solvent cleaned again, had the guide studs in place, applied the bead, slid the pan up, secured with a few OE bolts, FINGER tight, and called beer o'clock once more.
ALSO
When the pan is on the bench, take the time to knock the bolt holes FLAT, as the usually Rock Apes have overtightened all in the vain attempt to stop a leak, HAHAHA. I used a small ball headed hammer, and sat the ball in the hole and hit the other end with a MFH until I was satisfied. Took about an hour (3 beers).
I'll be changing the tran filter and it came with a gasket..should I use it or the rtv I used for the diff cover I just put on.
Oh boy.
Your car, your beer, your call.
I gave away pan gaskets 25 years ago.
The biggest issue you will have is drain down of fluid getting on the face.
SOOOOOO
WAIT, and using a clean cloth reach up into the trans and wipe the residue, that usually gives you >5 minutes before the top stuff reaches the bottom.
You will need that stupid collision bracket GONE to do this, as a STRAIGHT up approach over 4 guide studs is critical.
The RTV will FAIL if you sit the item up and then slide it around to get it square etc.
LIKE I just said in the other answer, the flatness of the pan is CRITICAL, and time spent here will pay off later.
Time is the key, so if time is NOT on your side, slap a gasket on, move on, sort the eventual leaks again later, when time is on your side.
When I did my engine, and a few others since RTV was a gasket of choice.
The camcovers of all my V12's and XK 6cyl were RTV only sealed. The huge "sandwich plate" of the V12 is also RTV sealed. Basically that engine only has 2 head gaskets, 12 exhaust manifold gaskets, the rest are RTV.
It is NOT for every sealing area, and NOT for every user. Some people will not work well with it.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 05-10-2020 at 07:02 AM.
I will have a go at this method grant. Questions: You say half a turn when it's gone off. I would be scared they are not tight and will come loose when driving.? How much squished out on initial tightening? Are they about nipped up then? . I will have a go .
The squish is easily noted as you finger tighten the bolts, and when you see it, stop. It is NOT a scientific thing, just a notation. This allows the RTV to form a gasket.
The bolts along the rear edge are longer than the others, (memory here), and I use some thread sealer on them, as they protrude into the innards of the engine, and oil will run down the threads and out the head. I simply dip them in some Permatex #3 Aviation, Non-hardening gasket goo. If you are unsure of which bolts, dip them all, no harm will come.
This 1/2 turn is also a guide. I use the SHORT wrench idea, so about 1/2 is "about" all you will get from them, and they will not fall out. No need for a long spanner (wrench), as they are simply sump bolts. I am probably a tad more comfortable with the RTV, as I have used it for so damn long it is 2nd nature to me.
The RTV when set off is SOLID, so worry not. As long as the faces are clean, and the pan is flat, mainly around the bolt holes, you will be fine.
05-09-2020, 03:27 AM
Flipping oil leak
