I think the best idea for 88 would be to go for max cubic inches and.then throw some boost on it. if you built something between like 6.5 and 6.8 liters which would make a lot more power naturally aspirated and then added 12 psi or so. you could get a lot closer to your goals without stressing the motor nearly as much

 

That's what I was thinking when you said it wouldn't handle it. I've yet too hear it looks like I'll be researcing that! I have heard of the groove method i've used it on snow machines race mowers and a few street bikes. Thanks ronbros I guess that is the missing piece! Off too my desk going too call a few machinists see what we can scheme up .

 

I feel you might be right calvin that thought crossed my mind when reading rons post .I've an idea or two in mind we'll

 

and on the knock sensor thing, nobody of the tuning world relies on knock to make up for poor tuning!

just when you need it sometimes they are not accurate, knock sensors are a crutch for poor tuning.

and i suspect a V12 would need two sensors, one in front and one in back, and a computor to match up the knocking.

like warrjon says a lot of trial and error, and a dyno to find the knock area under load conditions!

knock sensors are fine for stock engines,like factory stuff, they got thousands of hrs testing everything.

 

basicly you just gotta build the engine and run it, and go from there!

 

my question for you guys is where do you think we should mount the coil packs?

 

Calvin I've been thinking the same i'm going too build an intake for it simular too the checp tpi .so either id be going under it and make a cowl hood for it or mount the banks seperately hanging over the valve covers? On its own bracket of course .orr on the fire wall? Trisl and error i guess if you staying woth the stock intak e id put them in valley of the motor.

 

this works!

 

Yes it does ron!

 

ideally I was trying to keep them out of the V to keep the heat away. and keep the V open for airflow.

 

heat dont seem to be a problem with the GM coil packs!

mounting the coils anywhere else would look like a spagette mess, with long plug wires all over the place.

down in the V the wires would be short, shorter than with a distributor!

just my opinion tho.

and best air flow would be some type of hood vents, even with the V open, air flow would be minimal, air piles up at the fire wall,and tries to go down around the engine, with hood vents it would release out the top.

cal most of what i say is from experience! 65yrs of playing with cars.

 

Absolutely agree with Ron. Vents in the bonnet and remove the rubber seal from the rear lip under the bonnet. Even better is to cut the lip off.

This will also help reduce front end lift as the air will exit up and not down under the car.

 

This is what I have been thinking about .it looks suttle its not over kill but it gets the job done I plan too add louvers as well

 

I was thinking of this look

 

Nice calvin ! I kinda like that .

 

looks nice ,but iv never been a fan of long plug wires, things like ignition crossover on hi-output coils have been known to cause problems!

like when a coil fires a particular plug and it runs in parallel to another lead it can/may fire the wrong plug, and fire it early,causing detonation at the plug, its called induction crossover!

that car in pic has been runnin round 5-6yrs with GM packs,in the Vee, no problems.

but if it makes you happy go for it, a lot of us are waiting!,

i always make thanks to GM for all there help, we would be no-where with out some of there parts, i use one of there MAP(manifold absolute pressure) sensors for my engine!

they are dependable and low cost!

and because an engine looks pretty dont mean it will be fast!

 

I'm really looking forward too having this car all tuned and ready too roar. I love these cars I was cursed at a young age haha I grew up in and around one the bug or should i say the cat bit me!

 

Do you think its a possible too mount the trigger wheel on the end of the crank behind the torque converter? Or should i solid mount it on the front behind the dampener

 

Way easier to mount it on the front. Jaguar used the flywheel and mounted a sensor for engine speed (great resolution for the ignition) but it still needs an index pulse so they mounted a 3 tooth wheel on the front of the crank.

 

i was just going over some of my old books, it must have been a wild time during the 60s when CAN_AM(canadian=american) cars were developing engines! i was there but not at that level of money.

sad there were no jaguars of any type that would have been competitive then.

anyway there were almost no rules on what you could race. any thing you thought up was OK.

no limits to displacements, any amount of cylinders,
any fuels, any tire size, any type of aero devices, thats when movable air flaps came to be. today F1 cars use DRS(drag reduction system), it surprised me they had it back in 60s, quickly banned it,Yes rules were being put into place!

but the wildest was the Jim Hall sucker cars,they banned them right away, 3 seconds a lap faster than the closest competitve car.

well for 5-6yrs the BBC chevy was king,reaching up to 9.2L , and 800hp and 7000rpm, average was 8L 500cu. still put out 700-750hp ,this was in the 60s mind you.

minimum weight cars around 1800 lbs, can you imagine 1800lbs and 800hp, rear tyres 20" wide.

but then Porsche showed up with twin TURBO flat 12s, 1000-1200hp , that was the end of the show,nothing could even come close,(read porsche 917-30) everyone lost interest and rules were made to limit everything.

chevy guys tried turbos but there was no tyre or drive train available that could make them hook up to the tracks, torque was unbeleivable, over 1000lb.ft.

and Can-AM faded into nothing.

sorry i'm off topic, but gives us something to think about!