Will this kit from British Parts - online be OK.
Much cheaper that from Moss - but the pistons are not Stainless Steel.
Quality wise ok?

I will buy the joiner o-rings from Moss as I plan to separate the calipers, I will put them back on the car to undo the bolts, that is good advice.

1989 XJS - V12 - right hand but i will do both.

CALIPER PISTON & SEAL KIT

Jaguar Caliper Piston & Seal KitFront brake caliper service set include 8 caliper pistons & 2 caliper seal kits
to service 4 pot Jaguar Brake calipers Quality OEM spec set will service
both front brake calipers AAU2102 & AAU2103

• Jaguar XJS all 1976 to 1993 end at vin 188104
• Jaguar XJ6 series 2 & 3 1974 to 1987
• Jaguar XJ12 series 2 & 3 1974 to 1992

• Now £58.92
• Was: £63.36
• |
• Save: £4.44 (7%)

 

How do I undo this hose without elastic arms?

I can not seem to get to the other side easy? Have not tried toooo hard, but hard enough to have to wash my hands lol



plated, baked the bolts. And new pins etc


but that hose... ready to assemble...
Also...loctite or copper paste?

Thanks 😊

 

Hi Duke

I had the same problem getting those old Flexy Brake Pipes undone

Solution: Brute Force and Innocence - Angle Grinder! Cutting Off the Old Flexible Brake Pipes with an Angle Grinder

 

Thanks OB.. I decided to leave the old hose in place.. I can not get to the back side of the hose and am worried if I undo it I will not be able to tighten the new hose...
Any idea on this?

Now my problem is bleeding the brakes...I can not get a firm peddle.
I am trying to bleed the front right only...
Do I need to bleed the whole system?
The pump runs and stop when at pressure, I can pump fluid out of the front caliper but the peddle is super soft.

So in summary.. front right caliper has been rebuilt, the system was great until the seal failed, now super soft brake peddle.

Do I need to bleed the Low Pressure side?
OB - your the brake expert what do you recommend?

I have given up now until I have a new plan...
Thanks

 

Hi Duke

You know the Rules!

Giving up is NOT Allowed under ANY Circumstances!

And just in case you were wondering and even if you weren't, that other Caliper has to come off and then be rebuilt like the other one and that includes a New Brake Hose that you already have, or its going to Haunt you for ever, that you never did the job properly! (Halloween is almost upon us!) Just 'Sayin' Lol

We all know you can do it, as when you rebuilt the IRS Cage it turned out even better than mine!

Only this time don't Split it, or you will go and make yourself a whole lot of unnecessary work because replacing the Pistons without doing that is dead easy and the only reason I say this is because I did it that way even though I had never ever tried to rebuild a Caliper before (Ok the first one took 5 Hours! but let's not go there shall we)

So get the Angle Grinder out and Cut that Old Hose off just like I did, as when you refit the New One, as long as you've got it properly screwed in the Caliper, it doesn't have to be 'bar tight' where it goes through the Body Work, as I just used a Star Locking Washer and a New Half Nut to hold it in place, though as I didn't have any New Half Nits, I just cut a Full Nut in Half

Then when I had the Threaded end of the New Flexy poking through the Body Work, I put on the Star Locking Washer and then did the New Half Nut up by hand as much as I could and then protecting the rest of that thread with a piece of rag, I very gently gripped the end with some locking pliers and then did the New Half Nut up with a Spanner, Not Super Tight but tight enough to stop it from undoing

As for Bleeding the Low Pressure Side, you probably won't need to do that but only providing the Reservoir never ran dry

Though as for Bleeding the Brakes themselves, the Only way I ever do those now is by 'Gravity Bleeding' Ignition OFF and Don't even touch the Pedal until the Job is done

I know this may go against Conventional Wisdom but this is not just the easiest way but also the only way that I have found that absolutely works, as while Brake Fluid is dripping out, Air Cannot get in!

Just don't let the Brake Reservoir run out of Fluid and you don't need any fancy Tube with a Non Return Valve of any of that Stuff, just a simple piece of clear Polythene Tube, as a Non Return Valve will if anything only hamper the process (but just catch the drips in a Jar) as this will give you a rough idea of how much is left in the Reservoir, to save you from keep getting up to check while you are sipping your Beer

You can Thank me later Duke but Gravity Bleeding Works like you wouldn't believe!

So put down the Sunday Papers, get out there and then get stuck in!

Overthinking everything is probably the worst thing you can do!

You did the Cage, so this should be a Breeze!

I couldn't leave the Job Half done, as I couldn't live with the Shame and even worse Greg and Grant might even disown me! (Resistance Quits in the Face of Persistence!)

How I found An Easy Way To Bleed the Teves Brakes

 

Thanks OB.. so that flexi brake hose, I will try undoing it at the inside guard.
I do not think i will need to cut it.
How is it tightened on the inside of the engine bay - or other side of the guard.
Or does it simply unscrew from the inside of the guard?
I must be over thinking this...

The brake kit came with the small joining seals - i like separating and cleaning, painting and plating etc...

Brakes... i will try the gravity feed option, I will be seriously impressed if this works!
I have the parts to fix the other side caliper but i wanted to get the car moving before doing the other side.. if bleeding the brakes becomes such a major I may do the other side now and then bleed the brakes.
I though it would be super easy to bleed the front....not proving to be so... basically no pressure on the peddle at all , even though fluid is flowing out the caliper .. with some air bubbles.
Been through a whole bottle of fluid so far...

 

Hi Duke

If the other Front Caliper is OK then you could probably leave it until it starts leaking like the other one did but if you want to Split it, then that's up to you although I wouldn't bother to do that myself, as it only makes extra work and only looks as good as the Next 'Muddy Puddle' Lol

As for the Brake Pipe again 'Up to you' but whatever I do to one side I like to do to the other, although since you've got a New Pin Set, then 'Don't Spoil The Ship For A Hapeth Of Tar' as my Granddad would say and so replace the Brake Pads both sides, remembering NOT to lever the Brake Pads back in the Calipers, as you mustn't push Brake Fluid the Wrong way up the System as this can mess with the Valves

Also very important, just skim a little of each side of the Metal edges of the Brake Pads, so that the Brake Pads can Slide in or out with just your finger and thumb, which was a 'Golden Tip from Greg' so you can stand on that one, as for some strange reason when you fit New Brake Pads they do seem to get a bit tighter after a while and can Jam in the Calipers

Now on to the 'Gravity Bleeding' (Very Controversial I know) as like many other I've always Bled the Brakes in the way that many of us have always done it before, where as you won't need me to tell you, Bleeding the Brakes on an XJS is a Total PIA

Over the years that I've been on this Forum, I have tried every possible way you can think of: Pressure Bleeding/Vacuum Bleeding and everything else in between, all of which require you to have an Assistant and preferably a 'Telepathic One' who knows what they are doing and can read your mind! and doesn't mind being Shouted at when they do it wrong! (or at least not the way that you wanted)

And doesn't take it personally, when they suddenly find themselves off your Christmas Card list! for what you have convinced yourself is the result of Total incompetence on their part and should think themselves lucky if you ever decide to speak to them again!

With Gravity Bleeding that I discovered purely by Accident, when I forgot to do up the Bleed Screw on one of the Rear Calipers, only requires an Assistant to Bring you a Beer or make you a nice Cup of Coffee! and maybe keep the Reservoir Topped up (although you can do that yourself if you get bored)

The most important part of the Process is to make sure that the Reservoir, is kept Topped up at all times and isn't allowed to run low, as its better to over fill it and then use a Turkey Baster to suck out any surplus, when the job is finished and before you touch the Pedal or use the Car (after which you can then fine tune the Level of Brake Fluid as everything settles down)

The other Hardest part of Gravity Bleeding, is to 'Break the Mindset' that you have to do anything! 'Maybe if I just touched the Pedal' (DON'T DO IT! don't be Tempted leave everything alone!!!!!)

You 'may' repeat 'may' have to Bleed the Low Pressure Side, if the Reservoir ever ran dry before you started, but if that didn't happen then you could be 'Laughing Sandbags' all the way!

You may also need about 5 litres of Brake Fluid, which some would say is normal for Bleeding the Brakes on a Jag of any description

Just open the Bleed Screw on the Caliper furthest away from the Reservoir and then with a piece of clear plastic tubing placed over the end (and NO non return valve!) just let the Brake Fluid drip into a Jar until all the Bubbles are gone and the Fluid runs Clear and Very Most Important Don't Touch Anything!

Just let the Fluid drip, drip, drip and do its own thing, which could take quite a long time But once again DON'T Touch Anything!!! as even a Tiny Press on the Pedal might such Air Back in and mess everything up

If the Bubbles don't disappear, then you must have an Air Leak, as while the Fluid is Dripping Out, Air Cannot get in

Having Completed the Process, the one thing you will Notice is that your ABS Light will go out in about 20 Seconds! instead of the more Normal 40-60 Seconds! and the Pedal will feel nothing short of Jaw Droppingly Perfect for the first time in a long time

In the very unlikely event that none of this works then you may have to Gravity Bleed both the Rear Brakes as well, as they may be the reason for the Pedal feeling Soft and I always Gravity Bleed the Whole System Front and Rear just as a matter of course (although you might not have to if the rear Brakes were ok)

Let us know how you get on and get back if you get any probs

Good Luck

Alex

 

LOl - great... so i will start tonight.

1 wheel at a time.
How often do you check the Reservoir?

Do you leave it over night?

 

Duke,

As you can appreciate any form of "gravity" bleeding relies on the air bubble moving to the highest position from which it resides. That's fine if the air is in the caliper and moves to the exit of the bleed nipple. But I would try and avoid any risk of air moving back into the Actuation unit. It's ability to then back out to the reservoir is potentially quite difficult.

You've theoretically only disturbed the front circuit on one side. So I would do another standard bleed on both front wheels with ignition on and primed, and see how you get on,

Good luck

Paul

 

Hi Duke

No! No! No! Don't leave it overnight!

Each Caliper should take about 10 - 30 Mins to Bleed at least for the Front ones though the Rears may take a big longer as the Fluid has further to travel and always keep a watchful eye on the reservoir about every 10 minutes or so

But by seeing how much has dripped into the Jar, that should give you a bit of a Clue as to how the Reservoir is doing

Patience is what you are going to need as well as Rock Hard Willpower to avoid the Temptation of Touching the Pedal until all the Bleed Nipples have been done and tightened up one by one as you work your way around the Car

Don't let the Reservoir run out of Fluid, or you will have to start all over again!

As for the Brake Hose you mentioned, the only Nut is on the Outside of the Body Work and it really doesn't need to be that tight (just a good nip up should do it) as once it is connected to the Hard line, it really isn't going anywhere

How to Bleed the Low Pressure Side Of the Teves System (if you need to) If for instance the Reservoir ever ran dry

Skimming the Brake Pad Edges to ensure a Perfect Fit

How the Flexy Brake Hose is Bolted onto the Bodywork

Grinding Brake Pad Edges Using A Flap Wheel

Cutting Off a Rusty Flexible Brake Hose to Replace it For those times when a FBH is sometimes not enough!

Gravity Bleeding The Brakes

 

Alex,
Thank you for this Detailed description and directions how to do a gravity bleed!
I'm looking at flushing Nix's system over winter and I'll be doing it alone as my "Assistant" is now so blind he can't even see the bleeders, and can't hear me yelling at him anyway.

So although I've heard whisperings and rumors of gravity bleeding for a long time, this is the First time I've seen good, easy to understand directions how to do it.
Thanks again!
ElinorB.
(';')

 

Hi ElinorB

Thanks for the 'Comp' and you are very welcome but I've never been introduced to 'Nix' is She another Jag that's just joined your Fleet?

As for the Gravity Bleeding, I'd never heard of doing it that way either on a Jag and as said only found out by accident when I left a Bleed Nipple open, where I then noticed a stream of Bubble Free Brake Fluid pouring through, that at first had me thinking that the Caliper Seals were leaking as I had just refurbished them with New Ones

Where just out of curiosity as well as for sake of experiment, I undid the Bleed Nipples one at a time and then waited for a Stream of Bubble Free Brake Fluid to pour through before I did that Nipple up again only this time catching that stream of Bubble Free Brake Fluid in a Jar, instead of letting it pour out all over the Garage Floor! as I worked my way around the Car doing the same with each one until all were done

Where the hardest part of the Job was resisting the Temptation to give the Pedal a little touch to help it on its way and that included Not turning on the Ignition, which quite simply flies in the face of the way that I'd done it before, when using the tried and trusted conventional method

While I know you know this for the benefit of others who may not, don't be Tempted to reuse the Bubble Free Brake Fluid as it starts to pour out as it will no doubt be Contaminated in some way for which you may then have to pay a high price for this kind of false economy later on

Just in case you're wondering how much of this Bubble Free Brake Fluid to Flow through, just to be on the safe side enough to fill a Jam Jar from each one, where in the event that Bubbles continue to appear, then you may have an Air Leak in the System which needs to be sorted before you continue

While there's really nothing wrong with Bleeding the Brakes the Conventional way if you feel more Comfortable with that, the one thing that I wouldn't do, is to try and Combine both methods so either pick one or the other and don't mix and match them into some sort of a hybrid

Though having said that you may be surprised at the difference that Gravity Bleeding can make, as my ABS Light and Brake Pump lights go out in about 20 Seconds and then give you a perfect pedal feel, which may not be much different to when the Car was new! and I have got the Videos to show you how much difference Gravity Bleeding can make

So don't knock it till you've tried it and then decide for yourself

 

Duke & LnrB,

As mentioned, gravity bleeding via the caliper bleed nipples can remove air in the individual calipers and thus the pedal feel. But it can't remove air out of the high-pressure accumulator circuit or therefore improve the initial time to pressurise the accumulator when you turn on the ignition. That circuit is closed to the actuation unit unless you press the brake pedal. So, if you're doing a flush of the system, you absolutely have to use the Teves brake bleeding procedure to take fluid all the way through the system

Good luck

Paul

 

Alex,
Nix is the Jag featured in my sig image (see bottom of page). 1976 (well before ABS) Series 2 Xj6L.
She came to live with us in September 2013.
I did read carefully your instructions and understand them Perfectly.
Drained fluids of any sort Never get reused here (well, except maybe for fire starter), even if a special trip to the Hazardous Waste Disposal Facility is needed.

Paul,
I can tell you have deep understanding and experience with the Teves procedure.

However, as only one of my fleet is from this century (2003 Subaru Baja) and thus the only one with a modern ABS system (which brakes I leave to the Pros), I'm positive the gravity bleeding will be quite satisfactory in the case of my Ancient Jag.

Thank you so much for your genuine concern.
(';')

 

Thanks OB, Paul & LnrB
I tried the gravity option and then the standard bleed both front wheels option, ignition on, pump primed.
But the brake peddle has zero resistance, zipo, nada - none.

When the caliper started leaking I drove the car and pumped the brake (a lot) to see if I could build up any pressure.
At one point bleeding the front right - with the new seals I did feel some pressure but nothing now.

It feels like the master cylinder seal has gone.....
The pump runs and builds up pressure and stops after about 40 seconds...

My guess is the messy bleed of the Low Pressure side now?
Or should I confirm the master cylinder ?

Thanks everyone for your help.

 

Duke,

Just to be clear, you don't have a separate Master Cylinder, you have an Actuation Unit. The master cylinder is merely a small front chamber within that Unit.

It is possible that the Actuation Unit needs rebuilding, but i have only ever heard of one situation where that was the case. The Actuation Units , compared to the rest of the system, are quite robust.

I would start by doing a blink test and see what codes, if any, you pull from that. Do that before you start pulling any more bits apart.

Cheers

Paul

 

Is this the think used to a blink test? No idea sorry

 

Thanks Paul... Blink test... OK I googled this and believe I need to access the left rear next to the fuel neck...
BUT I have No idea what I am doing here?

 

Hi Duke

I am guessing perhaps incorrectly that at some stage during the Caliper swap that the Reservoir may have run dry, where in the event that this happened then you will have to Bleed the Low Pressure Side of the System and then once having done so re-bleed those Front Brakes again

And so just out of interest, did the Reservoir ever run dry?

How to Bleed the Low Pressure Side of the System prior to Bleeding the Brakes in the event that the Reservoir ever ran dry

 

OK... I need to look for this...

So this is what I am looking for!!!