Front cross member bushes help please
#1
Front cross member bushes help please
Is it possible to replace the round front cross member bushes by just lowering the crossmember on a jack ?, it looks as if it is or am I way off here ?.
I have tried to put a pic of it ( if it works ) it look knacked to me, the centre looks as if its too low i.e. the rubbers gone...
What do you think please...
I have tried to put a pic of it ( if it works ) it look knacked to me, the centre looks as if its too low i.e. the rubbers gone...
What do you think please...
Last edited by GGG; 10-30-2012 at 06:07 PM. Reason: Big pic
#2
Mmmmm, knackered is a good word, and probably more allowable here than what I first thought.
Yes you can lower the subframe a LITTLE, and you will need to do so to allow access to the bolt on top that clamps that bush in its sleeve.
MUCH CARE is required when lowering that subframe.
1) The rear frame "V" mounts will be put under strain, and they crack easily on any day.
2) The fan may clobber the shroud lower edge.
I have done it on ours, but we run thermo fans so (2) does not apply. It is still a mongrel job, that bolt is TIGHT, and access is just so dumb, but as I said, do-able. I did the fronts first (left the big bolt loose), then the rears, the tightened the lot up with load back on the front end, took ALL DAY.
Make real sure the "lowering jack" cannot slip, coz that engine will dent your head and ego if it lets go.
Yes you can lower the subframe a LITTLE, and you will need to do so to allow access to the bolt on top that clamps that bush in its sleeve.
MUCH CARE is required when lowering that subframe.
1) The rear frame "V" mounts will be put under strain, and they crack easily on any day.
2) The fan may clobber the shroud lower edge.
I have done it on ours, but we run thermo fans so (2) does not apply. It is still a mongrel job, that bolt is TIGHT, and access is just so dumb, but as I said, do-able. I did the fronts first (left the big bolt loose), then the rears, the tightened the lot up with load back on the front end, took ALL DAY.
Make real sure the "lowering jack" cannot slip, coz that engine will dent your head and ego if it lets go.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 10-30-2012 at 06:22 PM.
#4
You can change the front '6 shot' bushes, just, without undoing anything except the big central bolt. The car needs to be off the ground at all four corners, with a trolley jack under the subframe ready to 'adjust' the weight of it on the bushes (although nearly all the weight is on the rear V mounts, in fact). The jack under the subframe is needed because lining up the big bolt so it goes through the chassis fixing can be a bit of a pain, so easing the frame at that corner up or down a few millimetres carefully may be needed to get the bolt to slide in before tightening it up. Using a bit of long lever may help here too.
Undo and change one side at a time. A helper is a good plan too, as you often need a third arm. I did this 'on car' on a 6 cylinder car, and the biggest pain was having to remove the undertray and inner wing baffles to get at the big bolt.
Undo and change one side at a time. A helper is a good plan too, as you often need a third arm. I did this 'on car' on a 6 cylinder car, and the biggest pain was having to remove the undertray and inner wing baffles to get at the big bolt.
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