Spoke to George w/ JCNA Coventry for a while on the phone. He was a great help and we determined it would be acceptable for the locating pins to go into the middle holes instead of the innermost holes. That worked pretty well but we’re still confused as to why it’s seemingly impossible to use the innermost holes. Here’s a video; curious to see if someone has encountered this.

 

I begin to see why you're so confused.

Part of your problem is you don't understand how the springs work in their correct position and why they start out with the pans at opposite angles from each other. It has to do with the lower wishbone rotating on the fulcrum, being dropped out of it's working position. When the spring is properly seated and the car is firmly on the ground, upper and lower pans are more parallel to each other.

So now you have your locating bolts in the INNERMOST holes, just as the training video shows. These have the Farthest distance to travel before engagement of the lower spring pan as you have discovered and I have No idea how they managed to do that and make it work (unless there's an "insert miracle here" moment missing that they assume everyone knows) other than Brute Force. It was all I could do to line them up in the Middle holes both times I've done this.

Move BOTH the guide bolts OUTBOARD to the Middle holes since you're able to insert them there with less trouble.

The threads on the locator bolts must be Exactly straight on to thread into the wishbone. If possible Loosen the tool so there's no pressure from the spring and then see of they will thread into the Middle holes when you have some wiggle slack.

Then, when you get both the guide pins in the Middle holes try tightening the tool and see if the pan will compress the spring straight and properly.

All of us who have done this are probably wishing we could reach through our monitors and lay hands on it for you and just show you; I know I am!
(';')

 

Thanks LnrB, that's what I ended up doing - though I'm sure as you found, when the pins are in the middle holes, they eventually interfere with the tool handle.

What I ended up doing was inserting the pins in the middle holes, turned the tool as far as it would go until it interfered with the pins, then I inserted threaded rod into the innermost holes, since those get slightly easier to reach the more the spring is compressed. Then I would remove the locating pins (I did a bunch of other little things, but won't bore you with that here).

As is my new habit, I've recorded plenty of videos (not the ones I've posted thus far) along the way demonstrating how I raised the car to meet the requirements of this job, along with all the steps. I'll compile and post later on when I'm done.

Well, that's one spring down. Only took me 5 hours!

 

Well Alright then!! Congratulations!!
Now that you've figured it out, the next one will go Much faster.

If you look at my images you can see I didn't have a giant T-handle to be concerned with. I used 4- 8 inch lengths of Grade 8 ready rod (all thread) to place the pans to the wishbones. The Large ready rod was only a safety feature at that point, the work being done by nuts on the 3/8 threaded rod.

But Hey! You got yours to work and that's the whole point!
Ya can't argue with Sweet Success.

I recommend a shot or 2 of Bacardi Gold (or whatever you prefer) to celebrate.
(';')

 

Ok if anyone stumbles on this thread, take a look at this one that contains the videos I made of this whole process: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...8/#post2500456