Hi all.
My fuel gauge reads just over 3/4 when full to the top. Any ideas as at the rate it goes through fuel an accurate level would be great.....


Also I've found a few places now selling non ethanol fuel (look for places selling to boat owners) so have been using that as have read in the hand book that ethanol is a no no.

 

No idea on usage, but it is a 90ltr tank.

The float may be partially filled with fuel, common, and that would have that sinking feeling reading you are getting.

Wiring is a close second, especially with those barrel gauges. Lots of write ups on the earth issues with that instrument cluster.

 

Further to Grant's point, my gauge was also a bit like that, the Great Palm book has a detailed writeup about the electrical path through the gauge itself. Quite a few poor connections even when new (eg tiny self tapper having to contact with a thin copper bit etc etc) and as the current is so tiny, any imperceptible tarnish affects the gauges.


Once I bit the bullet and did it, gauge never been better.
Greg

 

Hi Greg can you please share your solution to the problem as for the last two years the fuel gauge in my car has been a source of mild amusement and I tend to always be using the computer.

 

Something,
In the end I did the whole system from the sender to the gauge. Renewed the sender, tested the low level warning light and gauge with the new sender by connecting it before fitting it to the actual tank. My car is pre facelift so as long as the tank is nearly empty fitting the sender is just a matter of rotating the locking ring and withdrawing the old one. Even though your sender may seem Ok, it actually will not be.

Then I removed the instrument cluster and then the white backing piece of the cluster from the black front so as to get at the actual gauges. Do this on a white table cloth as there are loads of little pieces that roll about as you undo things.

I attach an excerpt from the Great Palm's book, this bit deals with the gauges, particularly the small barrel ones. What I did was to carefully clean up all the many places/connections Palm mentions where even a small bit of invisible tarnish can affect the gauge current. A second earth as he mentions is also a great idea. If you do this job, while you are in there, remove the green bulb shades from the instrument illumination lamps. These shades are inside the cluster, so while you have the white part off, it is worth doing. Just pull/break them off as they are held in by small rivets. These green shades go dark over time and make poor illumination dreadful. If the instrument illumination bulbs look iffy (there are 5 from memory), change them for 5 watt push fits and the instruments will be really brightly lit, and you may even want to use the rheostat to tone them down.

Once all done the fuel gauge went right to the top for the first time in years. Really worth the effort.
Greg

 

Hi Greg did you retry it after just swapping the sender ?

 

Yes, it still did not make it hit the top of the scale, but the low level light started working again!
Greg

 

Changed the sender and all problems went. Also fitted a new rubber seal. I was expecting it to weep or some such but no issues. Waited until I had just a 1/4 of a tank left. Old sender out, new sender in and then perfect.

Nothing wrong with old float but the track looked burnt in several places so worn out. I will attempt to post up some pictures.

 

Good for you. After swapping out my sender, it remains off by 1/4 tank. When the weather cools off, I’m gonna dig in there and clean things up.