It's been awhile since I've wrenched on anything, but I just examined my fuel rail after a long bout of storage.
So, I'm back to the best source of knowledge for these "difficult to work on," but exquisitely beautiful automobiles.

YEP, I finally need to swap out those dangerous little hoses that were so brilliantly designed to sit above that distributor!

Years back, I went to an actual jag parts shop in the area and they gave me a few feet of standard fuel hose, with a bunch little hose clamps.
I still have the bag in the trunk.

But, I read here that it's not the way to go. Many mentioned the ferrules that are an integral part of this potentially flammable setup.

So, I guess I'm asking, "What exactly, is required to get me from burning this pretty vehicle to the ground?"

Thanks very much in advance, for your help!

 

The hose is NOT standard fuel hose, at least down here.

It is EFI rated, due to the pressure.

The case for clamps versus the ferrules, is about as opinionated as "which oil is best".

It is purely a case for case answer.

If Garry Goode has been in there and messed with things, the is NO answwer until its opened up.

The BARBS on the rail and Injectors etc spigots are CRITICAL for push on fitment. Too often, and yes even me, they are damaged when removing to old hose.

If there are any markings on the barbs, and the edges are NOT sharp, they will never seal, fact.

If that is the case, remove the sharpness remaining, 800 Wet & Dry in the fingers and rotate the unit to take that edge off, about 10 seconds per spigot, not much to it. Then EFI spec (NOT normal water hose spec) clamps are used, and ONLY tightened to Aussie Firm. Checked again COLD when 2 hours of fuel has passed through the system, simple.

With the age of these things now, I simply go the de-burr route with clamps, it just sits easier with me.

As for not burning it to the ground.

SIMPLE

PAY ATTENTION
If you smell fuel STOP NOW, and fix the source, dont have that oh so common attitude of "later on", the dinner date will wait.

Mostly, if they are going to leak, and smell, it is at first start up, not so much once temps are up. BUT, one of mine stank at hot start up, and I noticed moisture at the Injector adjacent to the distributor, OOPS, so flatbed home, spouse NOT impressed. Fixed it, slightly loose clamp, never happened again, so clearly my brain fart 2 months prior.

 

It's not unheard of to use clamps, but no, they should not be needed with the right spec fuel hose and ferrules (which you can get for cheap at injectorrehab.com) which kind of "finish)t he hose but arguably keep the cut ends kind of clamped in place. As noted it is the barbs that do the real sealing. IF you DO use clamps you CANNOT use worm clamps. You can easly crack the injectors & barbs on them w/ the wrong clamps. ONLY EFI clamps or Oetiker type clamps are acceptable because even pressure is required all aroudn the hose circumfrence. Also you really want to use the best SAE J30 R9 spec hose with an FKM (viton) liner these days (for the new fuels).

~Paul K.

 

Thanks very much! This is a reply from SD Faircloth @ JaguarFuelInjectorService:

"Two ways to go, and it all depends on you...

a) I can supply all the parts and you can fit them on your rail and injectors...
Cost is $126 plus $15 shipping. Included the following parts....
1) 12 cut to fit FI hose
2) 24 hose ferrules (not clamps)
3) 12 intake/injector seals
4) 12 collar bushings

b) You send me you rail with the injectors still attached. I remove injectors, clean and test the
injectors, and refit to your rail with parts as itemized above..Cost $510 and appx $40 shipping and
$30 PayPal fee.

Your fuel hoses have obviously never been replaced, which also means that after 35 yearsthe injectors have never been serviced. This is the time to do so.

There are also four fuel lines that attach to the fuel rail and pressure regulators. The rubber on those lines will be in the same condition. I can replace the hose on those lines also for $50 each. The ferrules will be cut off, and clamps used to secure the hose. That style ferrule is NLA."

I have done most of the maintenance on this vehicle, including overhauling the entire ignition system when rats decided the center / distributor cap of the V-12 would make a great home, and also the entire braking system.

Both these tasks were rewarding to complete, but I'm most certain they took years off my life. I'm not a mechanic and most of my experience is with motorcycles and carbureted vehicles.

I'm not in the state of mind to go through that again, but the fuel rail deal sounds compelling.

Can you describe what is entailed in the bolded text?

 

God deal,providing YOUR spigot barbs are not damaged.
Maybe they are OK if as stated, your hoses etc as made in Coventry.

 

You can / should use fuel hose that is specified as SAE J30R9. Please make sure what ever hose you use conforms to this spec. It's expensive. I've noticed the presence in the market of on-line retailers regular fuel line being described as "high pressure" while having no SAE or the low pressure J30R7 spec.

You can also use OETINKER style crimp clamps. Worm gears style clamps shouldn't be used on fuel injection lines.