The car has been running and driving beautifully. Saturday after a 4 hour blast, pulled into the garage and could smell fuel. It's coming from the clamped hose areas around the fuel line pressure tee. You can probably guess why; I gather the PO didn't think it necessary to flare the cut ends or use a compression fitting or, well, anything. No idea why it's lasted this long and I should have caught it when I was getting the engine sorted...



Anyway, what's the best way to deal with this? I'd like to keep the tee in place actually so would a compression fitting with hose barbs on the cut ends and new 5/16" hose do it? Do I actually need the clamps at all if it's barbs all around? Or different clamp type?

Grateful for any input, thanks

 

That is supposed to be tubing, what your P.O.has done is bodge fuel pressure T..... Remove it & fit a proper one, still available

 

the fuel return pipe to the rail is missing , as above, a right bodge, probably isn't even fuel rated pipe ? looks like they added a high point bleed nipple for some reason ?

dont drive until you have sorted, otherwise it could end in a ball of flames...


BB

 

Return to the rail is there, just a lousy pic on my part. The weird bit is that it hasn't leaked before now. Anyway I'll replace it.

 

you miss-understand

someone has cut a chunk out the pipe, and put in some crappy hose and a t piece,

replacing it with OEM is a good idea
BB

 

yes, I understand completely. I've checked into oem replacement parts here and no go. So I either import it ($ + long wait time) or fix the mess.

 

I had one made by my local hydraulic hose maker, took the fittings in and how long it had to be. Some $ but not big $.
I replaced all the fuel hoses with fittings at the same time so it was a batch job

 

Thanks, ultimately I went with a short piece of steel fuel line and a couple of compression fittings. Worked very well (so far) and looks much more respectable. I'll keep a close eye on the connections for a bit in case there's any kind of seepage but it's bone dry right now.

 

Brother. If it was ANY other automotive liquid but gas,,, in a hot engine bay, right over an exhaust manifold, I would understand this as a temporary fix - but NOT with pressurized fuel/gas.

I'm not a fan of compression fittings, don't know why, but especially when the compression fitting is placed between two sections that can flex, IMHO, not an adequate fix. 2 separate compression fittings uh uh...

Ya gotta get the right hose/tube/line... Ya gotta.

 

I truly appreciate your concern and advice. Look at it this way. That horrendous hose connection lasted 4 years minimum (that's how long I've had the car). The current state is leagues past that and uses parts actually designed for fuel lines. I'll keep your advice forefront anyway..and thank you once again.

 

Nothing wrong with tee-ing into the tube (or hose) for a fuel pressure adapter. It's a useful idea, actually. It's just that it wasn't very artfully executed

Personally, FWIW, I'd have no problem with compression fittings here.

The pipe/hose assembly is #11 in this illustration:

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/

An alternative is to tee a pressure gauge adapter into the rubber section using barbed hose fittings. If for any reason you ever wanted to remove the tee it's just a matter of removing the rubber hose and replacing it with a new section. The rubber hose is not crimped/swaged onto to pipe nor the end fitting. It's all barbed-nipple assembly. Cut the hose off the barbs and press on new hose. it's just the same as replacing the injector hoses.

Cheers
DD

 

Yeah, I figured if I ever needed a pressure gauge in there I'd destroy it again so I went the fix rather than replace route:

 

Looks Ok to me.

Your injector hoses, OTOH, look original. I'd replace 'em, pronto

Cheers
DD

 

I definately agree, replace the injector hoses, they are a sacrificial part that should be replaced when doing a service (valve train clearance) as the inlet needs to be removed to do this.
There is nothing worse than an engine fire and these hoses are usually the cause

 

The sentence in RED above is a bit misleading. You cannot adjust tappet clearance on the V12 without removing the camshafts! NEITHER is it necessary to remove the inlet manifolds to renew the injector hoses. Which should be renewed, that is true!

 

definately easier to remove inlet manifold to do the shims in fact I think it is necessary. No you don't have to remove inlet to replace injector hoses. What I was saying is that they are usually (the injector hoses) replaced when doing the shimms for valve clearance.

 

Thanks for the clarification; but doing the valve clearances does involve unbolting the cam sprockets/loosening the timing chain, removing the camshaft, and often having to repeat this process unless dead lucky with your measurements. On a fuel hose safety renewal, which is what is being discussed, I wrongly read it to mean that a valve clearance job is in the same sort of difficulty and complication category, which is perhaps liable to mislead the unwary. My apology for misunderstanding your point.

 

I was more intending to imply that the flexable fuel hoses (all of them) should have been replaced as a matter of course during normal servicing but often are ignored

 

Yep, and then they do the Injector hoses, and NOT the supply and return hoses, for some bizzare reason.

The 2 hoses at the rear cradle, OK, not in the engine bay, but still getting a lot of mention lately for smells and actual leaks on the dirt.

The boot hoses, waaaay outside the engine bay, but just as important, as a build up in there could go "boom" when the lid is opened and the light switch sparks, oops.

Its a scary world with pressurised fuel and hoses over 5 years old, as rule of thumb.

 

exactly and then we could go on about brake lines and brake fluid but that is wandering off the track