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It should be located in the boot below the battery. I'm not sure if the 92 MY has a sump tank. Remove the spare tire and the battery cover to reveal it. The fuel filter may be there too. I'm not sure when they moved it forward to inside the left side fender.
Its in the tank. 1992 was the first facelift year. Ford made some changes that increased production speed. Sub assemblies like the tank and intank pump with quick connects are typical in that production scenario.
I've done fuel pump work in the parking lot... of a track and under the pressure of the clock so it can be done. There is a thread where I detailed it . If I can find I'll edit and add the link.
V12 has 2 pumps. If you can find the relay for the 2nd pump and jump it you can get it to run if need be. The 2nd pump typically runs above 3500 RPM so it tends to last longer than the first.
Last edited by icsamerica; 12-12-2020 at 06:31 PM.
I was thinking about installing an aftermarket pump outside the fuel tank, and having it draw from the in-tank pump. I am looking at a parts diagram, but cannot see where there are two fuel pumps
I am going to consider this an emergency fix. I head back to Africa for the winter in 2 weeks. But I have to get the car mobile now. Then I can deal with it in the spring.
Scott
I am pretty sure that to get at the pump it is a tank out, or at least loosened job. Orangeblossom has a thread about this. An external pump will be a mistake without a sump tank. F.I. pumps are poor at "sucking" and if (in effect) inserted in the fuel line, there will be a huge delay when you accelerate as the pump cannot feed itself fast enough.
I an not saying ICS is wrong, but I have never heard of a second pump, unless the unit itself somehow incorporates two, so nobody noticed!.
Last edited by Greg in France; 12-13-2020 at 08:58 AM.
On my 1995 4.0L Facelift there is only one Internal Fuel Pump and the Relay is the Silver one that is hidden behind a piece of Trim Inside the Boot/Trunk where it is also tucked away underneath the Wing/Fender (inside the Car)
Very awkward to get to as you almost have to stand on your head to see it, unless you've got a Mirror on a Stick
As for replacing an Internal Fuel Pump, this can be the 'Job From Hell' and not something that I would ever want to do have to do in a Car Park, as for starters everything is right in the way and has to come out and this is even worse on a Convertible
Your Schematic Drawing looks exactly the same as the one on my Car and although it may look an easy Job, there are 'Bear Traps' everywhere that could trip you up as something as deceptively simple as removing the Fuel Filler could take you half a day, as it just doesn't want to come out of the Tank (unless you get lucky!)
Then there are the Fuel Pipes which are underneath the Car (don't lose the clips!) which is another 'Job From Hell' all on its very own!
So if I ever have to do this again, them I might have a try at doing it icsamericas way
Have a look at my Thread on this which may help you to decide, although which ever way you go, it really isn't exactly 'A Walk in the Park'
Being the PNW, of course it is raining and just above freezing. Another 5 degrees and I go out to the parking lot.
When getting the car out of the frame shop, where it sat for 3 years, the fuel pump did not work. So I dug both the master relay and the fp relay out from their hidden locations, and positioned them outside the rear upholstery panels. Items this critical shouldnt be inaccesible.
Yesterday I put a new Autozone universal relay into the fuel pump socket. No go. But I measured the voltage at the output of the relay. It operated correctly, coming on for about 3 seconds after the ignition was switched on. (I have a disconnect on the negative post of the battery. So I turned on the ignition switch, crawled into the boot, stuck the probes in the relay socket, and reconnected the battery).
Today I will remove the carpeting, and see if I have an external or internal pump. IIRC, when I did this at the frame shop, it seemed the pump was external to the tank. I will see today.
As to the fuse, searching has failed to uncover it. According to the electrical manual I have, the pump is connected directly to the relay. Extremely dangerous IMYO. In the boating world, one runs the risk of fire from unfused pumps than just about any other electrical situation.
Totally get the issues of running w/o a sump if it is external, but this is somewhat of an emergency. I can rent a shop in the spring when I return and address it properly. But I really do not like the internal style pump, and feel that I would like an external one.
Quite a change from having the cars in a workshop in Baltimore to my yacht club parking lot is. . It is not easy finding garages where one can work around here.
Alright. So I have confirmed the pump is in the tank. Damn!
Before I remove the transverse black panel that is on the rear most part of the tank assembly, I wanted to know if I am going to be able to access the fuel lines circled in the diagram below. Or do they just go straight through the bottom pan and lead to the fuel lines going to the engine? Ideally I would like to access them inside the boot
I have not jacked the car up to crawl underneath, as it is sitting in 3 inches of water.
If I remove the black cover panel, will I have access to the electrical connector for the pump? I would like to jumper that.
And where is the fuel filter located? Under the car?
Last edited by scottpeterd; 12-13-2020 at 05:58 PM.
I have a LHD US model. There are two fuel lines running to the fuel rail. The one on the passenger has a regulator. The driver’s side does not. So I am assuming the passenger side is the feed, and the driver’s the return.
At this point to get the car moved to storage, I am going to use a spare plastic fuel can, and rig an electric pump to it. I plan on splicing into the feed line under the hood with the new line.
As the car is a 92, these fuel lines should be replaced anyway.
Scott
Tow it to storage. A rigged up high-pressure fuel system (you will need feed and return) under the bonnet is just about certain to end in disaster.
Whether you do this my way or icsamaericas way, be under no illusions that replacing the In-tank Fuel Pump can be 'The Job From Hell' a Total PIA from Start to Finish and in answer to your question, those pipes that you have Circled in Red are inside the Tank!
And so in order to get to them you have to take that Big Steel Baffle Plate out, including the Soft Top Motor, if you have got a Convertible and that on its own is a Fun Job (Not!) if ever there was one
But then in order to get that Baffle Plate out, you have to remove the Gas Struts and almost every other Bracket that you can see, as that Baffle Plate is an Inch Perfect Fit and even then you will struggle to remove it
Not least as without those Gas Struts in Place, the Lid on the Boot/Trunk Weighs an absolute Ton!
But then before you can get to those Pipes which are inside the Fuel Tank (that you Circled in Red) You will have to Pull the Fuel Tank Back where in the very unlikely event that you had not already decided to end it all, the next stage could very easily send you right over the edge
As unless you can pull the Tank round like icsamerica managed to do, disconnecting the Fuel Filler Inlet takes a PIA Job to a whole New other level and then you have to get underneath to disconnect the Fuel Feed and Return Pipes, which can turn an already bad dream into a Nightmare
Then if you're still in the game at this point, you have to Change the Fuel Pump and then put every single thing back together again
There are no other words to describe it, except to say that changing the In-Tank Pump on an XJS can easily turn what at first looks like a very straight forward job into an Absolute Nightmare, where one of the worst things that you could do is to make a Start on this and then not see it all the way through to the bitter end
As this is an all or nothing Sort of Job
Where in your situation, I would certainly consider getting a Fixed Price Quote from a Shop to come and do this for you while you are away
i have found two Jag mechanics out here that say they can do it, Your eloquent pose is exactly what I need to send them, as they are saying it is not that difficult. One of them claims 25 years as a Jag mechanic.
why does the hydraulic pump need to come out?
Someone just wrote asking if the car was a Silver convertible. How the hell did he know?
Jagbits has the fuel pump as back ordered. Who is a good source? I really do not want to go with a second hand.
But I am seriously thinking about a conversion to an external pump. I have put over $25,000 into this project (read my thread on my journey with it), and I am not ready to give up on it,
I am giving serious consideration to converting to an external pump, like all my other cars. Even if I gomwith a swirl tank.
On my Car the Hydraulic Pump for the Soft Top, is Bolted onto the Steel Baffle Plate in the Boot Trunk, so hopefully yours may be located in a different place where it won't be in the way of removing that Steel Baffle
As for the New In Tank Fuel Pump, I got one off ebay for about $10 which has so far outlasted the uber expensive one that I put in before but since you have now got yourself a couple of good Mechanics on the Job
If I were you I'd push the Re-Set button where instead of replacing your In-Tank Pump and all that this involves, I would now be asking your guys to abandon ship on the project and instead be asking them to fit your Car with a Sump Tank and an External Fuel Pump, so that you never have to go through all this Trauma again
As an external Fuel Pump can if necessary be changed by the side of the road in about 20 minutes and having had to do this myself I always carry a Spare one just in case, which only cost $30 because they are Generic and fitted to lots of Cars and as they are so easy to fit, I really can't see any point in Spending $200 on an OEM
So seeing that in any event it may not be the Cheapest day out that you ever had, I'd rather spend that money on having your guys fit your Car with an external Fuel Pump or at some time down the line, that Internal Fuel Pump, could go again and once more leave you stranded
If they fit an External Fuel Pump for you, the chances are they may be able to leave all the other stuff in place
So Spend it once and Spend it wisely would be my take on that and don't forget to send us some Pics of the way they did it when its done and dusted, as you never stop learning stuff on these Cars
Good Luck I really do think that by Calling in the experts you are doing the right thing
12-12-2020 | 04:21 PM
