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I’ve a 1992 XJ-S 6.0.
When the empty tank warning light goes on i can fill it with about 60l….That means there’s still 30l left…We’ve checked the fuel tank sensor and it works.
does this mean that there’s still 30l left after the warning light goes on?
Another question:
We like to do some driving in the hills (germany, belgium). The brakes are fine but I was wondering if we can upgrade them so they ‘ bite’ more. I mean more response and more breaking.
Looking at the EBC pads (green or red stuuf) is that a way to consider?
Don't have any experience with the EBC brake pads.
Regarding the fuel issue, it's likely that the float end of the fuel sender has allowed petrol ingress so it sits below the proper level. This is mentioned in Kirby Palm's book, that the plastic degrades allowing fuel to penetrate the float.
The EBC pads worked fine on my 308. Can't tell you what "grade" they were
For more "bite", use a softer pad, maybe an organic/semi-organic pad, they aren't quiet as water resistant, and they don't last as long, and they can fade if used extensively, But, they grab better and don't need to be heated up to work.
Another question:
We like to do some driving in the hills (germany, belgium). The brakes are fine but I was wondering if we can upgrade them so they ‘ bite’ more. I mean more response and more breaking.
Looking at the EBC pads (green or red stuuf) is that a way to consider?
Besides friction material composition lack of 'bite' might occur if the discs and pads have become glazed. Or.....new pads that were never bedded-in after installation
No experience with EBC but have heard good things.
Your signature says "1993 XJ-S 6.0 v12", however your post refers to a "1992 XJ-S 6.0"?
I'm assuming (perhaps incorrectly?) that you have an "XJS", not an "XJ-S", in other words a facelift car from 1992 onwards, VIN higher than 179774? I'm also assuming that you have a 1993 car VIN higher than 188105? If it was before VIN 188105 and it's a 6.0 litre car, then it would be an XJR-S, not an XJS. If it's after 188105 and it's a 6 litre car then it's a standard factory 6.0 XJS.
It's also important because if it's a 1992 XJR-S then it will be a Coupe, whereas if it's a 1993 factory 6.0 XJS, then it could be a Coupe or a Convertible. You haven't mentioned which body type? And that's also important because Convertibles have smaller fuel tanks at 81 litres, whereas a facelift XJS Coupe will have an 89 litre tank.
So, once we've got that established, we can look at the warning light situation. You haven't mentioned what the fuel gauge is showing when the light comes on? When the light illuminates, IF the sender is reading correctly, then there will be approximately 11 litres left in the tank. You also haven't mentioned what the gauge reads when you have filled the tank.
So, if you can put in 60 litres when the light comes on, you have one of 3 situations happening:
1. The sender is dropping faster than the level of fuel, as per Mac's suggestion. A leaking float or an incorrectly positioned sender arm
2. A faulty anti-slosh module with a leaking capacitor causing the gauge to read lower than the fuel level and therefore the light to falsely illuminate
3. A slightly collapsed tank (usually through vacuum implosion) which means that it now doesn't actually hold 81 or 89 litres
4. The gauge just isn't working properly
The first 3 of the above situations are all known faults.
I would start by assessing No. 2 first. When the gauge has dropped to the point of the light illuminating, note the position of the gauge and then bypass the anti-slosh module (I can explain how to do that). If the gauge then reads higher, the fault probably lies with the module.
The other thing you could also determine, is whether the tank really does hold 89 litres (Coupe) / 81 litres (Convertible). You'll have to be a bit braver or devious to work this out. When the light illuminates, maybe then syphon out all the fuel you can via the filler cap (you won't completely drain it, from my experience). Now fill the tank and see how much you can get in. This will roughly verify whether the tank is really holding the specified capacity.
If neither of the above tests prove fruitful, you've possibly got a leaking sender unit.
I will beinto the tanks in the next 10 days to replace the lower tank pump and hoses.
I will check the floats and come up with something to replace them, I did find it odd that 7 gallons of gas just brought the gauge bar slightly above totally empty.
Doug
Originally Posted by Mac Allan
Don't have any experience with the EBC brake pads.
Regarding the fuel issue, it's likely that the float end of the fuel sender has allowed petrol ingress so it sits below the proper level. This is mentioned in Kirby Palm's book, that the plastic degrades allowing fuel to penetrate the float.
I’am sorry, it was not clear.
I own a XJ-S 6.0, from 1993, VIN ending 190081 and a convertible.
When the light blinks and I fill it there will be around 60L going into the tank. The gauge is then in the red area, halfway.
When it’s full the gauge is exactly on the position F.
It appears that the fuel tank is 81liters as you mentioned? Then there’s around 20L left when the light blinks.
I will check option 2 first.
Thanks for the reply!
Red Stuff are good for the XJS. Far better feel. I've done track days with them on a track that was not too brake intensive and they perform well. They wear fast, very fast so keep an eye on them so you dont damage your rotors. The XJS needs to have it's calipers perpendicular to the rotors and a proper setup will require a dial indicator, a dial caliper and some shim stock and perhaps some shim washers will be require to square the calipers to the rotors for best results. You can use drill bits and feeler gauges to ensure the caliper are perpendicular to the rotors and ensure that your rotors are not warped with the dial indicator.
Case in pont...I have an Audi where the was an issue recently. The brakes stopped the car well but never felt great dong so. On this brake setup the RS6 uses a bracket and the bracket's machined surfaces turned out NOT to be square. I re-mlled the bracket face, there was about 0.75 mm lean in the bracket and the brakes felt better immediately and after a few miles the pad re-seated and now the brakes feel better than they ever had. The same is true for the XJS or any car. The XJS doesnt have a bracket to true so you have to do this with shim spacers at the caliper bolts.
As for the fuel lamp...You many want to try a new fuel sender. Last time I checked they were 45$ and easy to change.
Last edited by icsamerica; 09-28-2023 at 08:11 AM.
I meant to say also that the other reason to verify if you had an "XJ-S" or an "XJS", is that the XJ-S, built up to 1991, doesn't have an anti-slosh module. Your facelift car is an "XJS" not an "XJ-S". The anti-slosh module was only introduced on the later facelift XJS like yours. Naturally, it's always helpful to have your signature accurate as members are more likely to be able to help with appropriate advice.
Removing and checking the sender is relatively easy, as mentioned, but you'd then ideally need to change the seal anyway.
Removing the Anti-slosh module from the circuit is easy in order to verify if the module is the source of an inaccurate gauge. That's why I'd test that first.
The module is located in the left-hand inner wing in the boot. It's like a tall black relay. See pic.
Remove the module from the holder and get a short piece of wire and bridge 2 of the terminals in the holder. It's the "vertical" one at the bottom the holder and the "horizontal" one in the middle. From memory, I think it's the light green wire and the light green with orange stripe. You can see how I've bridged the holder with a blue wire.
The module works by taking the voltage signal from the sender and "slowing / smoothing" it to counteract short-term deviations when the fuel is sloshing as the car moves around. By bridging the input and output wires on the module holder, you'll send a signal directly to the gauge, albeit will fluctuate on hills etc. And you'll lose the warning light signal which comes separately from the module. But now you can verify if the module is the problem.
09-16-2023, 03:06 PM
Fuel tank and brakes
