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Out to put in a new fuel pump and blow any junk in the fuel lines out. I have gotten as far as lifting the car up and the clips off the hoses that go into the thank. Does anyone know the trick to getting the hose loosened from the tank? Any info is much appreciated.
given the age of the hoses they often become very brittle and fossilized. I suggest using a sharp knife to cut them length wise so they will slip over the pipe and then replace all the hoses.
The hose that is currently on a rubber hose that is made into the metal fitting. You are saying to cut away the rubber and replace it with a hose that can be clamped back onto the metal fitting??
Out to put in a new fuel pump and blow any junk in the fuel lines out. I have gotten as far as lifting the car up and the clips off the hoses that go into the thank. Does anyone know the trick to getting the hose loosened from the tank? Any info is much appreciated.
Tony in NM
You didn't state year, body style, or engine....but it sounds like you're working on a later model with an in-tank fuel pump.
If so, could items #12 and #16 in this illustration be the hoses in question ?
The hose that is currently on a rubber hose that is made into the metal fitting. You are saying to cut away the rubber and replace it with a hose that can be clamped back onto the metal fitting??
Tony
On the older XJSs, at least, the feed (high pressure) and return (low pressure) hoses can be 'rebuilt'. Cut away the crimp collar and old hose, press on your new hose. The metal fittings have barbs that hold the hose securely in place. An end cap ('ferrule') is installed at the end of the hose to prevent the hose from deteriorating at the end. Attached is a pic showing the ferrules.
Not sure about the later model cars, though, if that's what you have. The hose assemblies might be different?
DD, I thought he was talking about the hoses from the tank to the sump tank and then to the pump and filter in the trunk. It looks like you are talking about the fuel rail hoses to each of the injectors. Either way I have found that you I needed to cut the old hose with a sharp knife rather than put lots of strain on the pipes or barbed fittings by pulling on the old hose.
BTW... Last week I came across a fuel leak in my 1A hose. I went ahead and checked all the rest. Yesterday I replaced the hose sections for both 1A and 1B. I plan to replace all the rest later this summer when I pull the anti-smog air injection plumbing.
DD, I thought he was talking about the hoses from the tank to the sump tank and then to the pump and filter in the trunk.
He is
It looks like you are talking about the fuel rail hoses to each of the injectors.
I was thinking of the feed and return hoses from the rail, actually,but only to serve as an example of how of how the hoses can be 'rebuilt'. I imagine he can do the same with his feed and return hoses at the tank...if he needs or wants to. Probably not a bad idea!
Either way I have found that you I needed to cut the old hose with a sharp knife rather than put lots of strain on the pipes or barbed fittings by pulling on the old hose.
A little off the subject, but as I remember on the E-Type if you had a leak in the fuel rail to the injector hose The fuel pump would attempt to maintain 30 PSI; feeding more and more fuel into the engine compartment. End result fire!
Sorry guys for being rather vague. I guess I was thinking everyone has the same XJS. Mine is a 1994 6 Cyl. From under the car I see two hoses with what looks like high pressure connections. I assume out they are those Ford types that has some trick to release. I can't get my hand up in that area (between the driveshaft and the floor of the car) to get grip on the connections. I called the Jaguar Club's tech line and the guy said that I may NOT need to release the connections at all. Merely slide/tip the tank off its shelf.
He also said that there was a Ford tool that slipped into the connectors to release them, but I don't see that at all. Best as I can reach those fittings don't seem to move.
Someone on the Facebook Jag Group suggested cutting the hoses and replacing them with a hose clamped onto the old fitting. I wasn't sure if that would mess up their high pressure function or not.
Thanks for the pithy discussion and any info you can offer to get me going on this.
I copied this from the Jaguar repair manual.: could not copy figures, but they were not to descriptive. There were no tools shown for this operation.
FUEL TANK TO MAIN LINE RETURN HOSE 4.0 Ltr
RENEW 19.40.85
Open the luggage compartment and displace the right-hand front side liner. Displace the fuel pump relay (silver relay on black/ yellow base) from mounting at rear of hockey stick panel and remove the relay. Crank the engine to depressurise the fuel system. Reposition the relay and disconnect the battery earth lead. Empty the fuel tank into an explosive proof con- tainer using suitable fireproof equipment. Raise the vehicle on a ramp. Displace hose retaining clip. Disconnect hose from tank (Fig. 1). remove and discard hose and ‘0 ring seal. Fit blanking plug to tank outlet.
Disconnect the quick release connector by pushing the locking ring towards the connector (1 Fig. 2) and withdraw the fuel hose from the main return line. Fit blanking plugs to hose and return line. Fit new ‘0’ ring seal to the tank connector end of new feed hose. Remove blanking plug from tank. Fit and fully seat hose to tank, ensure retaining clip secures hose. Remove blanking plug from main return line. Clean return line joint face. Fit and fully seat hose to return line. Check hose connections for signs of leakage. Lower the vehicle, reposition the trim panel and connect the battery. Refill the fuel tank
Last edited by afterburner1; 05-01-2017 at 12:36 PM.
I'm making progress to getting the tank out of the XJS. I am currently stuck at the fuel filler. I've unbolted it and removed all the connections I can find. There seems to be a rubber sock sort of thing that hold it to the fuel neck of the tank. I have tugged, yanked and pried to get it loose, but it seems stuck. What is the trick for that?
No direct experience on your exact model but it looks like the same cap/filler arrangement as on the older sedans.....which require LOTS of (tedious) wiggling and twisting to (eventually) remove.
You are exactly right. I tapped, pushed and so on for over an hour. What finally got it off was clock and counter clock twisting. Why is NOTHING simple with Jags????
I am almost done with the XJS's fuel tank/pump replace. The only thing left is to get one of the fuel lines back on (it's the one closes to the rear driverside wheel. I am having a devil of a time getting it connected. Either the oring is too thin and the connection leaks OR the orings are too thick and cant push in all the way. Any suggestions???
Just an update. I got everything back together and nothing leaked. I took it for a spin and it died. I repeated this a few times to determine the battery was dead. Got a new battery then took it for a spin and it died again, but the battery was able to restart it. I figured it was a low idle situation. I did a little research on the Jag forums and took the suggestion to clean a few sensor contacts. Took it for a spin and it ran fine.
I had some errands to do today so I left home around 12:30 ran all over Albuquerque in the heat of summer, got back about 5PM . The car ran good. No stalling. The temp gauge even started working. I occasionally got a gas smell and near the end of my trip the transmission light came on. The temp gauge eased a little the right side of the "N", but that was sitting in traffic. So all in all MY fixing seems to be working.
I think I need to look under the hood for the source of the gas smell. My thinking is that it my be a related to the low fuel pressure that causes it to not start right away after it's been driven a while.
No, I didn't locate the source of the gas smell. I am not sure it isn't standard as I have heard others talk of the convertible having such a smell. I will keep looking, but my suspicion is that I should have used a thicker O ring when I put the fuel hoses back on to the fuel tank. I hope to get around to doing that and seeing what happens, but school and marching band has started so not a lot of time for home projects until after Novermber 2.
Also I suspect that same hose fitting is responsible for a fuel delivery error message I am getting. So again I think replacing the O ring with a thicker one will fix the problem. I just could not get it pushed on nor could I find a tool that could gave me leverage.
The contact were related to the temperature gauge I think. I did spray some cleaner on them, but they were still on working well. I think I figured out the issue, however.
My local driving doesn't seem to get the car up to a high running temperature. I've taken the car out on a couple of highway trips of 70 miles or so About halfway, the temp gauge starts to work. When I'm back driving around town, however, back to the old habit of being buried in the far right of the gauge.
Sorry I don't have better news for you on either item.
04-29-2017 | 03:49 PM
Fuel Tank hose line removal
