XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Fuel tank is out... what a mess!

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  #21  
Old 02-28-2017, 04:55 PM
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I've been calling all repair and radiator repair shops in the area(northern Illinois) and no one will touch it. Looks like I might be on to a new adventure... fuel tank repair.
 
  #22  
Old 02-28-2017, 07:41 PM
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If you do repair it yourself, rinse it with water a few times and then fill it at least 1/4 full of water before you hit it with a torch. This will help a lot with the fuel fumes and reduce the likely hood of you blowing yourself up.

MAP works way better the LPG (propane).
 
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Old 02-28-2017, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 944xjs
nice, my buddy works at an industrial supply company so I can get closed cell foam real cheap. Just wondering how thick to get?
I think mine was 8-10mm thick
 
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  #24  
Old 02-28-2017, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by warrjon
I think mine was 8-10mm thick
nice thanks... if I do it myself it's not getting welded. I have zero experience with that. It would be some sort of crappy over the counter kit with POR and whatnot.
 
  #25  
Old 02-28-2017, 10:34 PM
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That'll work, I put a hole in a fuel tank of one car once 100's miles from home, the guy at the local garage fixed it with Selleys Knead it was still good when I sold the car.

Some of the epoxies now are very good.
 
  #26  
Old 02-28-2017, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by warrjon
That'll work, I put a hole in a fuel tank of one car once 100's miles from home, the guy at the local garage fixed it with Selleys Knead it was still good when I sold the car.

Some of the epoxies now are very good.
Yeah my buddy has a couple years on a tank he fixed. wanted a pro fix but apparently it's a lost art. Ha
 
  #27  
Old 03-01-2017, 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by warrjon
I think mine was 8-10mm thick
1/4 inch (7mm) maximum, I would say, if too thick you have clearance problems above the tank.
Greg
 
  #28  
Old 03-01-2017, 03:09 AM
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Originally Posted by greg in france
1/4 inch (7mm) maximum, i would say, if too thick you have clearance problems above the tank.
Greg
👍🏼
 
  #29  
Old 03-01-2017, 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
1/4 inch (7mm) maximum, I would say, if too thick you have clearance problems above the tank.
Greg
Interesting. I have ordered and just recieved 1 x 2 meter 8mm closed cell neoprene. I will most likely not install it until after next week though, vacation coming up
 
  #30  
Old 03-01-2017, 12:11 PM
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I asked a question earlier on but I think it got lost in cyber space.
The question was, is it possible to slip a shim between the tank and the rivet so as not to move the tank?
 
  #31  
Old 03-01-2017, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by leo_denmark
Interesting. I have ordered and just recieved 1 x 2 meter 8mm closed cell neoprene. I will most likely not install it until after next week though, vacation coming up
Give it a go, Leo, but ensure the top of the tank is not rubbing the bodywork anywhere once it is in.
Greg
 
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  #32  
Old 03-03-2017, 12:03 AM
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Dumb question, but this is a fuel line right above the left rear brake caliper isn't it? Or is it the flexy brake hose people talk about? Looks a bit shiny next to the hose wrap.. wondering if that might be where the "sparks" my buddy saw as he was driving behind me are coming from.
 
  #33  
Old 03-03-2017, 01:23 AM
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That's the hand brake cable
 
  #34  
Old 03-03-2017, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by afterburner1
I asked a question earlier on but I think it got lost in cyber space.
The question was, is it possible to slip a shim between the tank and the rivet so as not to move the tank?
No, just grind off the rivet. Nothing bad will happen!
Greg
 
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  #35  
Old 03-03-2017, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by warrjon
That's the hand brake cable
ha, well then. Thank you
 
  #36  
Old 03-03-2017, 04:12 PM
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Greg, I don't have a leak and at all costs I don't want to pull the tank to grind a rivet. It seems to be a hassle just to get to the tank to look. Even if I loosened the straps I couldn't gain a 1/16 of an inch to slip a shim between the tank and the rivet head?
 
  #37  
Old 03-04-2017, 02:03 AM
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Originally Posted by afterburner1
Greg, I don't have a leak and at all costs I don't want to pull the tank to grind a rivet. It seems to be a hassle just to get to the tank to look. Even if I loosened the straps I couldn't gain a 1/16 of an inch to slip a shim between the tank and the rivet head?
If all is Ok and your tank is not leaking, leave well alone! I thought you had got the tank out and were wondering what to do. There is no way you can access the rivet tank in place!
Greg
 
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  #38  
Old 03-04-2017, 03:07 AM
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Yeah, you're not getting to that rivet without removal
 
  #39  
Old 03-04-2017, 11:36 AM
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Thanks Guys
I was looking for some easy preventive maintenance, but no such luck!
I burned up an E-type with gas leaking in the trunk. So I'm kinda sensitive to this issue. I am not going to pull the tank to grind a rivet, but will monitor closely. I really think this is an issue of safety that should prompt a Jaguar recall. Not that I'm a fan of government interference, this should be reported as a matter of public safety
 

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  #40  
Old 03-04-2017, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by afterburner1
Thanks Guys
I was looking for some easy preventive maintenance, but no such luck!
I burned up an E-type with gas leaking in the trunk. So I'm kinda sensitive to this issue. I am not going to pull the tank to grind a rivet, but will monitor closely. I really think this is an issue of safety that should prompt a Jaguar recall. Not that I'm a fan of government interference, this should be reported as a matter of public safety
yeah ive never owned a car where I even once thought about fire safety till I got the xjs and started reading the forums. As soon as I opened the trunk and saw the battery on top of fuel lines and sump I thought.... ahhh who had this bright idea.
 
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