Fuel tank removal
#1
Fuel tank removal
I did a search and did not find anything, so here goes. I had cleaned the sump tank a while back, and used a inspection camera on the big tank and it looked okay, while it was dry. After I put fuel in it, and was looking at the sending unit, I noticed rusty sludge in the main tank, so I started to pull it this evening. I disconnected all the hoses except the 3 on the left and the straps and brackets, thought I could cam the tank a little and make it easier for the hoses. I tried to move the tank and it would not budge. Are there fasteners I am missing, or is it just really stuck? I get nervous with a pry bar on a gas tank.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Phil,
STUCK.
They sit on a foam matting, nuf said.
I empty the boot/trunk. Including the panel with the relays fitted, and tuck it out of the way up near the ECU.
There are 2 steel panels on either side of the boot that house the boot lamps, remove them also. They run fore and aft, and are secured by numerous screws.
The filler pipe is a mongrel on any day. That large hose around it is only half of it. There is an o/ring between the pipe and the tank, where the 2 pipes slide together, and it sticks solid.
The 3 hoses right up in the top RH corner go to a tin can vapour seperator, tucked up in the RH buttross, PAIN to get at, but those hoses will need to come off, and NEW for replacement.
The first one I did took 2 days to get out. I had NO idea of what was needed to get it out, and it was STUCK, seriously.
These tanks JUST fit, so lots of juggling/twisting/swearing/drinking will be done. The USA tanks may be different to ours, I doubt it, but ours are basically in there, and the car built around them.
STUCK.
They sit on a foam matting, nuf said.
I empty the boot/trunk. Including the panel with the relays fitted, and tuck it out of the way up near the ECU.
There are 2 steel panels on either side of the boot that house the boot lamps, remove them also. They run fore and aft, and are secured by numerous screws.
The filler pipe is a mongrel on any day. That large hose around it is only half of it. There is an o/ring between the pipe and the tank, where the 2 pipes slide together, and it sticks solid.
The 3 hoses right up in the top RH corner go to a tin can vapour seperator, tucked up in the RH buttross, PAIN to get at, but those hoses will need to come off, and NEW for replacement.
The first one I did took 2 days to get out. I had NO idea of what was needed to get it out, and it was STUCK, seriously.
These tanks JUST fit, so lots of juggling/twisting/swearing/drinking will be done. The USA tanks may be different to ours, I doubt it, but ours are basically in there, and the car built around them.
#5
Résultats Google Recherche d'images correspondant à http://sheridanmarine.com/public/assets/images/shop/stock/1275346800/oil-filter-strap-wrench-1275585611-l.jpg
Greg
#6
I appreciate all the tips, the strap that I had did not work, but showed early promise. Turns out a cotter key puller makes a pretty good hose tool. And penetrating fluid. IT IS OUT. Of course, that's the good news. What recommendations are out there to clean the rusty sludge out? Tipping and shaking ain't gunna get it.
Thanks
Thanks
#7
I recently "cleaned" my tank. I used a common brand kit of tank cleaner, etcher, and resealer.
The kit I picked up was for a 30 gallon tank and there is NO way, it was enough to properly clean and etch the tank, so I sealed the outside.
I had a VERY difficult time cleaning because I live at an apartment complex with no hose, I had to awkwardly hold the tank up to a spout outside and turn it on and off with a wrench.
If you have a hose and some duct tape, I would seal the whole thing up, except the filler neck, and rinse it thoroughly. Second I would make a run to the store and buy several gallons of "formula 88". After a recent engine tear down, using purple power, formula 88, and simple green, I found formula 88 to work the best at cleaning parts ( and the cheapest!). I removed varnish and rust off of parts, so it would do well in the tank.
You could also use naval jelly I believe. I'd throw in a few gallons of formula 88 and fill the rest up with water and let it sit a few days and then rinse.
You can also look into the "reseal kits" and check out the cleaner/etcher. It is usually some sort of light acid. Buy it on its own and use it instead of getting ripped off by a kit.
I put a chain in my tank and it took 45 minutes to remove it. DO NOT put something small in the tank like nails, bolts, ball bearings, etc. The baffles in the XJS tank are a world wonder.
My tank leaked on the bottom where the baffles are spot welded, so I cleaned it off and sealed over the bottom with epoxy. If you can get the inside clean, don't seal it. Tanks never are sealed. Get it clean and then get it full of gas and keep it that way.
When I removed mine I found that there is a flap in the fill neck!! I just figured it was an old car and those weren't use at the time, but mine had been rusted in place all the way open! Some time in a cup full of cleaner freed it up and now I have a fancy flap to push down with the gas nozzle...ooooooooo fancy
The kit I picked up was for a 30 gallon tank and there is NO way, it was enough to properly clean and etch the tank, so I sealed the outside.
I had a VERY difficult time cleaning because I live at an apartment complex with no hose, I had to awkwardly hold the tank up to a spout outside and turn it on and off with a wrench.
If you have a hose and some duct tape, I would seal the whole thing up, except the filler neck, and rinse it thoroughly. Second I would make a run to the store and buy several gallons of "formula 88". After a recent engine tear down, using purple power, formula 88, and simple green, I found formula 88 to work the best at cleaning parts ( and the cheapest!). I removed varnish and rust off of parts, so it would do well in the tank.
You could also use naval jelly I believe. I'd throw in a few gallons of formula 88 and fill the rest up with water and let it sit a few days and then rinse.
You can also look into the "reseal kits" and check out the cleaner/etcher. It is usually some sort of light acid. Buy it on its own and use it instead of getting ripped off by a kit.
I put a chain in my tank and it took 45 minutes to remove it. DO NOT put something small in the tank like nails, bolts, ball bearings, etc. The baffles in the XJS tank are a world wonder.
My tank leaked on the bottom where the baffles are spot welded, so I cleaned it off and sealed over the bottom with epoxy. If you can get the inside clean, don't seal it. Tanks never are sealed. Get it clean and then get it full of gas and keep it that way.
When I removed mine I found that there is a flap in the fill neck!! I just figured it was an old car and those weren't use at the time, but mine had been rusted in place all the way open! Some time in a cup full of cleaner freed it up and now I have a fancy flap to push down with the gas nozzle...ooooooooo fancy
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