Getrad Manual Gearbox S.O.S
#1
Getrad Manual Gearbox S.O.S
Hey guys,
So I noticed my clutch pedal was not firm to press on the other day. It was difficult to get the car into gear also. Now the pedal had no spring back to it and I can't seem to engage any gear!
The car is stuck on my drive at the moment :/
What could this be?
I checked the clutch fluid level, I topped it up. Also checked the brake fluid, topped up. The pedal is so slack now.
Where should I look? Ive been lucky enough to get my hands on all 4 service manuals.... looking through them but in the meantime if you could help that would be great.
Also my 'BRAKE' warning light has been flickering on from time to time. Maybe this is linked?
Thoughts please thanks in advance.
So I noticed my clutch pedal was not firm to press on the other day. It was difficult to get the car into gear also. Now the pedal had no spring back to it and I can't seem to engage any gear!
The car is stuck on my drive at the moment :/
What could this be?
I checked the clutch fluid level, I topped it up. Also checked the brake fluid, topped up. The pedal is so slack now.
Where should I look? Ive been lucky enough to get my hands on all 4 service manuals.... looking through them but in the meantime if you could help that would be great.
Also my 'BRAKE' warning light has been flickering on from time to time. Maybe this is linked?
Thoughts please thanks in advance.
#3
#4
Hi Duke,
I had something similar last year and tracked it down to a duff master cylinder. The return spring had broken in 2 or 3 places and the bore was badly scored. How slack is your pedal? Mine dropped down about an inch or so from its normal at rest position.
On the nearside of the bell housing you will see the clutch actuating arm sticking out near the slave cylinder. You will need to safely jack up the car and lay underneath. Get someone to operate the clutch and see if the arm is moving. If not then definitely hydraulics but even if it is moving it could still be hydraulics as it was in my case.
Worth checking the hydraulic system before assuming the worst. You said you had to top up the reservoir. Have you tried bleeding the system?
I don't think the brake warning light is related to your clutch problem.
Good lick,
LeeP
I had something similar last year and tracked it down to a duff master cylinder. The return spring had broken in 2 or 3 places and the bore was badly scored. How slack is your pedal? Mine dropped down about an inch or so from its normal at rest position.
On the nearside of the bell housing you will see the clutch actuating arm sticking out near the slave cylinder. You will need to safely jack up the car and lay underneath. Get someone to operate the clutch and see if the arm is moving. If not then definitely hydraulics but even if it is moving it could still be hydraulics as it was in my case.
Worth checking the hydraulic system before assuming the worst. You said you had to top up the reservoir. Have you tried bleeding the system?
I don't think the brake warning light is related to your clutch problem.
Good lick,
LeeP
The following 2 users liked this post by leep123:
Duke85 (06-24-2020),
Greg in France (06-24-2020)
#5
Hey thank you for your reply. So yes I topped up the clutch fluid which was low. No change. Then this morning I called my mechanic to book it in and he said pump the clutch. Keep pumping it while the car is running. Sceptically I did this - BUT IT WORKED!
I haven't yet taken the car out but the pedal is up and has resistance when pushed as before and the gears are easier to select.
PHEW for now. I've looked for a fluid leak and I cannot find any evidence of a leak near the clutch pedal or near the reservoirs.
Will continue driving.
Thanks again.
I haven't yet taken the car out but the pedal is up and has resistance when pushed as before and the gears are easier to select.
PHEW for now. I've looked for a fluid leak and I cannot find any evidence of a leak near the clutch pedal or near the reservoirs.
Will continue driving.
Thanks again.
#6
I’ve had a similar problem in an old BMW, bleeding the clutch fixed it temporarily. It ended up being a rather long temporary, I think I got the clutch bleed once a year and never properly fixed it. Everyone suspected the master cylinder, but we didn’t bother fixing it as the car was rather rusty with over 250000 miles...
#7
Hey thank you for your reply. So yes I topped up the clutch fluid which was low. No change. Then this morning I called my mechanic to book it in and he said pump the clutch. Keep pumping it while the car is running. Sceptically I did this - BUT IT WORKED!
I haven't yet taken the car out but the pedal is up and has resistance when pushed as before and the gears are easier to select.
PHEW for now. I've looked for a fluid leak and I cannot find any evidence of a leak near the clutch pedal or near the reservoirs.
Will continue driving.
Thanks again.
I haven't yet taken the car out but the pedal is up and has resistance when pushed as before and the gears are easier to select.
PHEW for now. I've looked for a fluid leak and I cannot find any evidence of a leak near the clutch pedal or near the reservoirs.
Will continue driving.
Thanks again.
I would bleed the system. Mine was a pain to do as I couldn't get all the air out until I bought a pressure bleeder (works off tyre pressure) from Screwfix for £20. If it needs bleeding air is getting in and fluid is getting out although may be trapped under dust covers so hard to spot.
My slave cylinder rubber boot (dust seal) was full of fluid but replacing the slave didn't help so I checked the master which is when I found the broken spring, scored barrel and leaking seals. All fine with a new master cylinder and final bleed.
Good luck,
LeeP
The following users liked this post:
Duke85 (06-25-2020)
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