GKN Diff - just how do you change the seals/bearings?
#1
GKN Diff - just how do you change the seals/bearings?
Hi all,
After finding my 1990 conv. diff had run out of oil , i pulled out the whole back end and removed the outputs (5 bolts) from both sides of the diff. One side was shaky indicating some bearing wear and the seal was shredded.
I will be receiving bearing kits in a couple of days but...
I can easily remove the inner bearing from the removed parts but the outer bearing is captive in the removed housing as it is larger in diameter than the hole at each end.
I can't find any advice anywhere on the fine detail of replacing the bearings and seal. can anyone shed light on this for me? Photo of the offending object included.
Many thanks
Graham
After finding my 1990 conv. diff had run out of oil , i pulled out the whole back end and removed the outputs (5 bolts) from both sides of the diff. One side was shaky indicating some bearing wear and the seal was shredded.
I will be receiving bearing kits in a couple of days but...
I can easily remove the inner bearing from the removed parts but the outer bearing is captive in the removed housing as it is larger in diameter than the hole at each end.
I can't find any advice anywhere on the fine detail of replacing the bearings and seal. can anyone shed light on this for me? Photo of the offending object included.
Many thanks
Graham
#2
If you don't have a shop press, then you can take the parts to a machine or auto shop and have someone press the shaft from the bearing and seal housing. Install a new seal and press the outer bearing back onto the shaft.
I usually place the new collapsible spacer on the shaft and very slightly 'crush' it with the shop press (just BARELY start the bend at the crease). This makes it easier to get the other bearing and thin nut tightened down without applying enormous amounts of torque to that thin nut trying to get the spacer to collapse at the center crease.
The correct pre-load is important.
bob gauff
I usually place the new collapsible spacer on the shaft and very slightly 'crush' it with the shop press (just BARELY start the bend at the crease). This makes it easier to get the other bearing and thin nut tightened down without applying enormous amounts of torque to that thin nut trying to get the spacer to collapse at the center crease.
The correct pre-load is important.
bob gauff
#3
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texasscot (02-12-2012)
#4
#5
Just to close this thread out (sorry for the long delay...).
I got the seals changed out on the outputs by a very good shop in Houston for $300.
For amusement, the first quote i got from a very odd gentleman in another shop in Houston was over $800 (and he wouldn't use any parts i supplied). He actually fired me as a customer for questioning the price!
Anyways, car rolling once again and thanks to all who helped.
Regards
Graham
I got the seals changed out on the outputs by a very good shop in Houston for $300.
For amusement, the first quote i got from a very odd gentleman in another shop in Houston was over $800 (and he wouldn't use any parts i supplied). He actually fired me as a customer for questioning the price!
Anyways, car rolling once again and thanks to all who helped.
Regards
Graham
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