Going to do the steering rack bushings... will this work?
#81
05-11-2018, 05:15 AM
Veteran Member
Sometimes you just have to take the WHOLE BLOODY RACK OUT/DOWN... A determination once in process. Personally, I don't know what the WHOLE aversion is. The steering knuckle will take 20 to 30 min (an hour on a bad day) to reassemble. And the lines, another PITA, about 10 min,,, OR and hour on a bad day,,,, but it makes the job approachable, accessable, MUCH easier. Tale it all down!
Disassembling and reassembling many things to get to one thing, I'm learning, is my lot in life with my new (to me) XJS. Just comes with the territory...and I love it. What the hell else do I have to do??? Women are mean and I don't watch sports. I guess I could go fishing and get angry at the fishes,,, for not biting....?
Disassembling and reassembling many things to get to one thing, I'm learning, is my lot in life with my new (to me) XJS. Just comes with the territory...and I love it. What the hell else do I have to do??? Women are mean and I don't watch sports. I guess I could go fishing and get angry at the fishes,,, for not biting....?
#82
05-11-2018, 06:24 AM
Veteran Member
Absolutely true. Any other way leads to grief, pain and final capitulation after which one starts removing the bits in the way! In my opinion, it is not the time it takes to remove bits that makes us reluctant in our XJS early days; rather it is the subliminal fear that we will never get the daunting-looking bits back together if we take too much apart...
#83
05-11-2018, 12:22 PM
Sometimes you just have to take the WHOLE BLOODY RACK OUT/DOWN... A determination once in process. Personally, I don't know what the WHOLE aversion is. The steering knuckle will take 20 to 30 min (an hour on a bad day) to reassemble. And the lines, another PITA, about 10 min,,, OR and hour on a bad day,,,, but it makes the job approachable, accessable, MUCH easier. Tale it all down!
Disassembling and reassembling many things to get to one thing, I'm learning, is my lot in life with my new (to me) XJS. Just comes with the territory...and I love it. What the hell else do I have to do??? Women are mean and I don't watch sports. I guess I could go fishing and get angry at the fishes,,, for not biting....?
Disassembling and reassembling many things to get to one thing, I'm learning, is my lot in life with my new (to me) XJS. Just comes with the territory...and I love it. What the hell else do I have to do??? Women are mean and I don't watch sports. I guess I could go fishing and get angry at the fishes,,, for not biting....?
#84
05-11-2018, 12:45 PM
Veteran Member
maybe maybe not... ALL of what I am about to say is with the oil filter OUT....
open the U up kinda wide so it will play,,, place the far bolt into the rack and thread it to the sub frame with 2 or three thread turns. replace L and R tie rods first. they will take the weight - lots of it (IF the ties are good?). in that you will have two free hands. use your left arm to jiggle the column around (thread arm up in the space made by removing the oil filter), right arm to jiggle the rack a bit, make sure the "cut out" in the shaft at the top of the rack tower is approx in the right place and pop it in and together. Then, take a long philips (or a really short one) to poke into the hole to line it up to accept the bolt. once the bolt is in, use a looooong extension to tighten the nutt. aint so bad. and YEAH,,, because of the cut out in the tower post, it will NOT come apart. In that,,, when you go to move things around to get the nutt end facing down (at you) you can be assured that it will stay together... MORE, you can tug down on the rack when tightening the nutt SO the bolt wont spin... Its really not so bad...
kinda the same thing with reconnecting the lines. the ties will hold it up for you while you jimmy around with the tubes. actually they give a lot of flexibility as well.
take a couple of days off and recoup - then give it another shot...? Maybe?
open the U up kinda wide so it will play,,, place the far bolt into the rack and thread it to the sub frame with 2 or three thread turns. replace L and R tie rods first. they will take the weight - lots of it (IF the ties are good?). in that you will have two free hands. use your left arm to jiggle the column around (thread arm up in the space made by removing the oil filter), right arm to jiggle the rack a bit, make sure the "cut out" in the shaft at the top of the rack tower is approx in the right place and pop it in and together. Then, take a long philips (or a really short one) to poke into the hole to line it up to accept the bolt. once the bolt is in, use a looooong extension to tighten the nutt. aint so bad. and YEAH,,, because of the cut out in the tower post, it will NOT come apart. In that,,, when you go to move things around to get the nutt end facing down (at you) you can be assured that it will stay together... MORE, you can tug down on the rack when tightening the nutt SO the bolt wont spin... Its really not so bad...
kinda the same thing with reconnecting the lines. the ties will hold it up for you while you jimmy around with the tubes. actually they give a lot of flexibility as well.
take a couple of days off and recoup - then give it another shot...? Maybe?
Last edited by JayJagJay; 05-11-2018 at 12:51 PM.
#85
05-11-2018, 03:55 PM
maybe maybe not... ALL of what I am about to say is with the oil filter OUT....
open the U up kinda wide so it will play,,, place the far bolt into the rack and thread it to the sub frame with 2 or three thread turns. replace L and R tie rods first. they will take the weight - lots of it (IF the ties are good?). in that you will have two free hands. use your left arm to jiggle the column around (thread arm up in the space made by removing the oil filter), right arm to jiggle the rack a bit, make sure the "cut out" in the shaft at the top of the rack tower is approx in the right place and pop it in and together. Then, take a long philips (or a really short one) to poke into the hole to line it up to accept the bolt. once the bolt is in, use a looooong extension to tighten the nutt. aint so bad. and YEAH,,, because of the cut out in the tower post, it will NOT come apart. In that,,, when you go to move things around to get the nutt end facing down (at you) you can be assured that it will stay together... MORE, you can tug down on the rack when tightening the nutt SO the bolt wont spin... Its really not so bad...
kinda the same thing with reconnecting the lines. the ties will hold it up for you while you jimmy around with the tubes. actually they give a lot of flexibility as well.
take a couple of days off and recoup - then give it another shot...? Maybe?
open the U up kinda wide so it will play,,, place the far bolt into the rack and thread it to the sub frame with 2 or three thread turns. replace L and R tie rods first. they will take the weight - lots of it (IF the ties are good?). in that you will have two free hands. use your left arm to jiggle the column around (thread arm up in the space made by removing the oil filter), right arm to jiggle the rack a bit, make sure the "cut out" in the shaft at the top of the rack tower is approx in the right place and pop it in and together. Then, take a long philips (or a really short one) to poke into the hole to line it up to accept the bolt. once the bolt is in, use a looooong extension to tighten the nutt. aint so bad. and YEAH,,, because of the cut out in the tower post, it will NOT come apart. In that,,, when you go to move things around to get the nutt end facing down (at you) you can be assured that it will stay together... MORE, you can tug down on the rack when tightening the nutt SO the bolt wont spin... Its really not so bad...
kinda the same thing with reconnecting the lines. the ties will hold it up for you while you jimmy around with the tubes. actually they give a lot of flexibility as well.
take a couple of days off and recoup - then give it another shot...? Maybe?
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