Ok guys, need help again. After successfully (I thought) replacing both rear brake calipers, pads, and handbrake pads, I had difficulty getting the handbrake to function properly on both rear wheels. When pulling up the actual handbrake lever from the drivers's seat, it would lock/unlock the RH rear wheel only (the LH rear wheel would remain loose.) So I got under the car, disconnected the handbrake cable and noticed a disparate amount of free travel in the handbrake caliper levers. I can move the RH caliper about 8-10mm by hand before it engages the disc, but the LH caliper more like 35mm. So, obviously the RH caliper is engaging the disc before the LH caliper has moved enough to encage the disc, hence handbrake works on RH wheel only.

My question: Is this normal, if not which of these travels is correct, or are they both wrong?

I want to make sure that I only remove and/or adjust the one handbrake caliper needed, as you know this is not the easiest of tasks in situ, LOL

 

The pads need to be about 5 thou ONLY from the disc. This can only be adjusted by removing the split pin, then turning the large screw on the end of the handbrake caliper to pull the pads in, then locking the screw with a split pin once done. The free movement on the arms should only be about 10 mm if not less. It is not easy to get at these adjustment screws axle in car. Also, I cannot see the return sprins attached to the arms, are they there? Not that this will help the clearance issues, but they are essential to the correct operation of the self adjusters and stopping premature pad wear, pad squeaks, etc etc.
Just in case you are interested, and you have to remove the axle to fix your problem, the attached file shows how I made my handbrake perform far more reliably and effectively.

Just out of interest, what are those black things each side of the UJ in the picture? One has the letters COOP visible?
Greg

 

Hi Greg,
Thanks for the quick response. You have saved me from a big list of honey-doos and enabled me to to get straight back on the Jag!

Looks like the RH caliper (smaller) movement is about right then. Ironically that was the side that took me about 6 hours to change out (it being my first), and I was much more confident that the LH one was good - I was feeling semi-pro when I did that one (it took me under an hour and the brass spring fork spring dropped straight in!)
I will try and adjust the LH caliper in situ, or pull out the caliper and adjust again off car. I cannot face the rear axle out scenario, yet!!, but thanks for the file. You are a Gent and a Pro

Re the return springs; I took those off after I noticed the handbrake not functioning on the one side - so as I could check the free travel in each caliper. They were installed when I noticed the issue, just not when I took the pic.

The black thing is my Cooper LED shop light - in there to see what I'm doing.

 

It's been years since I least dealt with the parking brake calipers so someone with more recent memory might chime in to correct me, but.....

...... I recall taking up the excess free play by simply 'ratcheting' the lever to actuate the internal adjuster mechanism. Don't ratchet them right down to the end, though, as you'll then have the pads dragging heavily on the brake disc.


Cheers
DD

 

Hi Doug,
Yeah, I seemed to be able do that on the RH caliper (more luck than judgement), but before the brass spring fork was in place. With the LH caliper, I dropped the brass spring fork dropped straight in place, but then the caliper wouldn't ratchet up. Almost like the strength of the fork could overcome the ratchet mechanism of the handbrake caliper?

Anyway, I've taken the LH handbrake caliper back out now, will clean the adjuster mechanism, and then take a rest while I go out and buy some slit (cotter) pins! Hopefully Lowes or Home Depot have some

 

Doug, I think that the self adjuster has to have some resistance from pad contact to work. If the arm runs out of travel before the pad makes good contact, the self adjuster will not ratchet, sadly!


Norfolk, turning the screw and locking it with the split pin in effect does what the adjuster will do, once the pad is close enough to the disc to enable the excess arm travel, after pad contact to operate the ratchet. Incidentally, re: your forum name, in the UK the Horseracing authority, the Jockey Club, vets horses names very carefully to ensure no unseemly rudeness is slipped in. This one VERY nearly got through: "Norfolk and Chance" until someone said it very quickly, such as might happen, for instance, in a close finish to a race! Are you guilty also ??
Greg

 

Update: All done, road test and bedding in complete. Pleased to report that the new rear brakes and handbrake all seem to be functioning properly. I tested the handbrake on a steep hill and it works fantastic!! Thanks to Greg and Doug for their help!!

Given how useful the members and reading of this forum have been, I wanted to share a couple of key learning moments that I had in fitting the rear handbrake caliper and brass forks.

I gave up trying to adjust the handbrake in position by utilising the screws on the side of the handbrake caliper. Definitely got to be a contortionist with a snap-on truck worth of tools to be able to remove (or replace for that matter) in situ the cotter pin that holds the screw head:

1. I adjusted the handbrake calipers to approximately the right position off-car by mounting them onto my old (leaky) calipers, and setting the gap between the pads as close as I could to, but just larger than, the width of the brake disk (see 2.) Note: Did not install the brass forks as they pre-load the arms and result in an inaccurate measurement.

2. I measured the brake discs at 12.7mm, and was able to set the distance between the handbrake pads to approx 12.9mm-13.1mm (at their closest) while they were off-car but mounted to my old calipers.

3. Removed the handbrake caliper from my old brake caliper. Looped the handbrake caliper up and over the disc from the rear (surprising easy after a few attempts, I must say!)

4. Dropped in the brass fork and and two handbrake caliper bolts to connect the handbrake caliper with the new brake caliper already in position . Tightened as required.

5. Pushed and let the handbake caliper arm click/self adjust (as Doug mentions above) until the max movement of the arm was approx 8-10mm (as my RH caliper seemed to be and Greg recommended)

6. Reconnected the handbrake return springs and handbrake cable.

7. Jacked up the rear of the car so as both wheels could spin freely. Adjusted the handbrake cable (behind and under the drivers seat) until the handbrake lever felt good and strong on actuation, whilst checking that both rear wheels still span freely when handbrake off. Note: This step probably not required but I had unnecessarily faffed around with cable adjustment when I had my original issue at the start of this thread. FYI, I think the cable adjustment ended up more or less where it started before I even embarked on changing the rear pads.

Roadtest and success! Whoop! Thanks again for all the advice and experience!

Going to take a few days rest before I start on the leaky rack and power steering hoses. Can't be a worse job than the rear brakes in situ.., LOL

 

Blimey, Greg, what a coincidence. Good job I don't speak fast, and definitely a good job that I don't speak fast and have a Geordie accent!

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